NZ00Z3

BlueBus may be an easier alternative. https://www.bluebus.dev/ I like it on my E46.

"Officer, It's only a Goldfish"

Have you got the multi-meter out yet to track and trace the 12V's. Get your wiring diagrams from here: https://bmwteka.com/wds

Yes Jon I agree with you for times where the home occupier employs or engages someone to do the work.. My issue is when I want to do the work. I have not found anything that says a home occupier is not a PCBU when he wants to do work in and around the home except house maintenance. Any other activity in and around the home seems to be an undertaking and you are a PCBU. Be is cooking, gardening, hobbies, fixing your car etc.

Thank you everyone for your comments, even the funny ones. After lots of time on the internet and reading countless web pages and dry documents, anything can be an undertaking and is cover by HSWA. WorkSafe seem to have a threshold/model to determine if something is an undertaking, but are not telling anyone what it really is. The best I can find is: The difference between a business and an undertaking is: · businesses are usually conducted with a view to making a profit and have a degree of organisation, system and continuity. · undertakings will have elements of organisation, systems, and possible continuity, but are usually not profit-making or commercial in nature. https://www.worksafe.govt.nz/managing-health-and-safety/getting-started/understanding-the-law/primary-duty-of-care/who-or-what-is-a-pcbu That page also says that home occupiers are not PCBU's. But I can't align that statement with the legislation?

I wonder if WorkSafe has a "Safe Sex" code of practice? Getting back to the main point. What is an "undertaking" for the average person doing stuff at home?

Was reading the Health and Safety at work act, as you do on a rainy day, to see what a PCBU (person conducting a business or undertaking) was. The business part is easy, but what is an "Undertaking"? It could be anything? The only definition of undertaking that I could find was from Auckland Uni "Undertaking: An activity that is non-commercial in nature." https://www.auckland.ac.nz/en/health-safety-wellbeing/resources/definitions.html This means that any non-commercial activity is an undertaking. That includes things like, fixing my BMW, gardening, patting the cat and sex with my partner. The homeowner only has exemption if they employ someone else to do the residential work/undertaking. Otherwise it is covered by the Health and Safety at Work act. There is a whole lot of red tape to run business and comply, so does this mean a resident/home owner/flat-mate has to this too? I know I'm reading this stuff literally, but where is the cut off/limitation? What is your understanding?

If you get the parts but the install is not your thing, then give me a call. I have installed several cruise controls stalks in Z3's (E36/7) and a Z4 (E85) stalk into a E46. Being Timaru based, I not too far away from Dunedin.

3.0L Z3. 231HP in a little car = awesome performance Doesn't take up too much space in the shed Easy to work on/low level of technology which is well known Topless driving, wind in your head, open spaces all round, just watch out for sheep/cattle trucks. No back seat, so no kids along for the drive to annoy you. Your time out car.

Yes it was. Not a bad capital gain for a LHD

Your 2000 Z3 is all OBD2 so is easy to diagnose. Like wise the 116i. Maybe you should look at setting up your own diagnostic kit. There are cheap and expensive options, depending on what you want to do: INPA software (free) on a windows laptop with the cheap special USB cable and an OBD2 to 20 pin lead for the Z3. Reads all modules and lets you code new modules to your car. Software and some instructions are here: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2184573-The-Z3-Diagnostics-Thread-Instructions-Experiences-Discussions-Experimentation Creator C310+ scanner. Low cost, reads all modules. Will not code new modules. Foxwell NT530 with BMW software. Mid price. Reads all modules but will not code new modules.

Welcome to the forum from Timaru. Great looking Z3. Be careful, Z3's are addictive. I will not be long before you'll have a 2.8L or 3.0L Z3 in the drive for yourself. I'm banned from going to look at any Z3's that are for sale, as they have a tendency to follow me home. I'm down to 2 at the moment.

Maybe time to go down a size or 2. 18" wheels have a better (not perfect) reputation for not cranking than the 19" and 20" wheels. 16" would be almost bullet proof, but look funny on your nice BMW convertible. A bit like wearing old school dress trousers with rolled up leg bottoms.🤣

I love the Z8 and would own one in a heart beat if one was available in N.Z. Is that a real car or just another computer generated concoction?

When someone wants a broken part, you know that something odd is going on. If you have owned a BMW with the M52TU engine, you'll probably know that the throttle body (MDK) is one temperamental beast. I'm doing a deep dive on the MDK and working on a test procedure for it. The final result will be shared with the BMW community. There are 2 BMW's in my collection with the M52TU engine, but both MDK are working (thankfully). I need a couple of broken ones to check my test procedure on as well as dissect when they are of no longer use. So, I'm looking for a couple of "free to a good home" broken MDK's. Happy to pay for the shipment cost to Timaru. Do you have one in your parts pile that you're willing to donate?

When I'm doing a clutch change by myself, I sometimes find the final man handling of the transmission back in to get alignment as bit hard. Have the transmission on a jack, but that last alignment hmm. What I do is have 2 bolts the same size as the bottom engine mount bolts, but with the heads cut off and a slot for a screw driver cut into the end. I use these as alignment rods. Once the transmission in in place with the top 2 bolts in loose, a screw driver winds out the alignment rods and you're into bolting that sucker in. Also note that the transmission to engine block bolts have a special coating to stop them galling. Check them. If the coating is gone, recommend that you use new bolts. Having a galled bolt that is half in is a world of pain. Tight access to cut the head off, drill out old bolt and fit a helicoil or time sert. Often results in the engine removal, so you can get access.

Topas-Blau looks good on a Z3. Manual Z3's are not that common in N.Z. That would have been one desirable Z3. Good luck with the repairs.

Well that is a step in the right direction. Well done. Does your central locking work? If not, then that is the next place to work. I have not had the pleasure to work on an E34, my experience is with E36, E36/7 and E46's. So, some of the below may not apply to your car. The E34 was made from 1987 to 1996, so the ZKE is likely to be ADS/OBD1. If so, you'll need a scanner that can read the old ADS/OBD1 modules. This thread may be helpful. https://zroadster.org/threads/how-to-scan-early-model-z3s-pre-build-date-03-98.39937/ Lets break the system down to help fault finding. Key Mirror General Module/ZKE Car door switches and actuators Wiring Keys and Mirror You have covered most of this and got the key paired. Use INPA to talk to the ZKE Confirm the pairing with INPA. In the ZKE, there is a spot where you car see the digital input change when you press button 1 and button 2. If this is working, then the problem is not with the Key to mirror pairing. Use INPA in the ZKE to "Activate" the lock and unlock signal. This tests the ZKE Un/Lock input. If the central locking works fine with the Activation but not with the key, then you are looking back up towards the Mirror. General Module/ZKE, Door Switches and Actuators Pull out your E34 wiring diagrams and farmilarise yourself with the inputs and outputs of the ZKE. Use INPA to talk to the ZKE See if all the required inputs are present and changing when the doors/boot lock. Door switches, actuator position, that sort of thing. The E36 and later have a door lock actuator position signal. Not sure about the E34? With INPA in the ZKE, watch the operation of the central locking to make sure that all doors/boot lock and unlock correctly. Lots of digital signals change. Look for the same pattern. For example, the E46's have problems with tiny relays that drive the Un/Lock signal failing. Just like their window relays. You are trying to identify a relay that is failing. These relays can be replaced if you have the soldering skills. Wiring Check the wiring hose that goes from the boot to the boot lid. Broken wires in this hose can cause silly central lock responses. Very common in the E36/7 and E46's. They call it the "Loom of Doom" Use the tests results from above to direct you on the signals, and activations that are not working and go searching.

Do not work under a car supported by jacks, multiple blocks of wood or wheels laying on their sides!! You will probably not know that the car has fallen off as you'll be dead! The car needs to be supported by 4 (four) good quality jack stands. I use 3 ton 4WD jack stands. The car needs to be quiet high off the ground so you can get the transmission out. Measure the height of the transmission at the bellhousing to engine join. If the car is not have more than that measurement off the ground, then the transmission will not come out. You will want to clean inside the bell housing and maybe replace seals and pivot pins. Best done with the transmission out away from the car. The less time you spend under the car the less the risk of it falling on you. You need a good quality 2 ton floor/hydraulic jack, so you can support the transmission when you take it out by yourself and carefully lower it to the ground. You'll need the same jack to lift the transmission up to re-install it. A 2 ton jack has the lifting height to do the job. Make a cradle to hold the transmission on the jack. No jack and you are trying to lift a very heavy transmission while lying on your back. One slip and your are off to A&E due to the injuries' of dropping the transmission on yourself. Or if you actually manage to lift the transmission up to the engine, it will hang there supported by only the input shaft sitting in the piolet bearing. It's going to slip out, just when you have your head arm or body under the transmission as you try to fit some bolts. Not nice. Am I over dramatising this. No I am Not!! Been there, done the foolish silly things 30+ years ago and been to hospital to heal with lots of time to reflect on my mistakes. I replace clutches by my self these days, but I have the right gear, take it slow and spend a lot of time working out the heavy lifts to minimise hazards. Do not get nominated for the Darwin Awards.

Arh the Infra Red remote key. Here are some tips: The radio test works for the RF keys but not the IR keys. IR keys do not transmit any RF signal for the radio to detect. To see if the IR key is transmitting, grab a digital camera, turn it on and point it at the diode as you press a button. The IR diode will flash white if it is transmitting. See the attached on how to pair the key with your car. It's a little different to the RF key pairing instructions. It took me ages to find these instructions. They work and fixed my problem. With INPA you can look in the General module or ZKE and see if the key is paired to the car and working. There is a place where you can see a digital input (black dot) change colour when you push either button 1 or button 2. INPA also lets you fault find further into the system if the central locking is not working. You have to point the IR diode at the clown nose on the inside rear view mirror for the system to work. It needs line of sight. Not like the RF keys which work on radio waves. Infra-red key reprogamming instructions.pdf

Really?? Go to www.RealOEM.com. You have two choices: Enter the last 7 digits of your VIN number into the search tool and press enter. It will list in the boxes the spec of your car. Click on the "Browse Parts" button below the boxes and off you go, looking for part numbers specific to your car. Use the search boxes to find your car. Clue- the E36 is in the "Classic" catalog. Once you have clicked in the boxes your car's spec, the "Browse Parts" button will show and you can click on it and go looking for part numbers. But first of all: Make sure the modem is turned on and it's made the squawking noise. The glass milk bottles and tokens are at the front gate ready for the milkman And you have a fresh pot of tea with the tea cozy on it to keep it warm. You may be on the internet for a while.

RealOEM gives part numbers only. With the part number, you can do your internet shopping in places like: Pelican Parts FCP Euro ECS Tuning Lots of other places. Even on E-Bay, there will be a list of equivalent part numbers in the details. You just have to look and read ALL the listing carefully. Just search for "BMW {the part number you want}"

With that new information, I would forget about the number of splines. Just buy a clutch kit to fit a manual 320i E36. Check out www.RealOEM.com for some BMW part numbers. Then you can go shopping for direct replacement parts or single mass flywheel equivalents.

I did a clutch job on my 2.0L E36/7 (Z3) a couple of years ago. Went with the LUK dual mass fly wheel and clutch kit. Around $2,000 for the parts only. You are in the world of unknowns: - What engine has the E36 got? 2.5L or less and the 228mm clutch is good. > than 2.5L or forced induction/performance tune, 240mm clutch is the one you want. Both fit in the 220g bell housing. - Where did the transmission come from? E36 and early E46 have the same number of splines on the transmission input shaft. Late model E46's have a different number. This impacts on the clutch kit you purchase. - Duel Mass Flywheels are expensive, but they work well. Some single mass flywheels have chatter in neutral, others don't. Others will have experience here and can tell you what works. Suggest you remove the transmission and have a look before you purchase parts. Also suggest that you invest in a new set of bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. These can be used 1.5 times on average. They have a special coating on the threads to stop them from galling in the back of the block. Some people get away with reusing the bolts a couple of times. Others get a galled bolt half way in on the first clutch change. This leaves you in a world of pain. Cutting the bolt off and cutting a new thread or time-sert in a tight place. Sometimes results in pulling the engine to get access. Edit If you have a dual mass flywheel, you need to check it carefully. While the surface may look OK, you need to check the condition of the rubber between the 2 mases. I think the spec for the dual mass fly wheel is 10 degree of rotation between masses. Count the teeth on the starter ring and work out how many = 10 degrees. Grab the clutch and see how much rotational slop there is before the engine turns. Count the teeth that move past a fixed reference point and see if it's more than 10 degrees. If it is, then don't reuse the dual mass flywheel.

Southebys has a 507 going under the hammer on 17 September 2021. If interested, you had better raid the piggy bank and under mattress safe to raise enough money. https://www.classic-trader.com/uk/cars/listing/bmw/507/507/1958/251303?utm_source=Weekly&utm_medium=E-Mail&utm_campaign=Newsletter