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With that new information, I would forget about the number of splines. Just buy a clutch kit to fit a manual 320i E36. Check out www.RealOEM.com for some BMW part numbers. Then you can go shopping for direct replacement parts or single mass flywheel equivalents.

I did a clutch job on my 2.0L E36/7 (Z3) a couple of years ago. Went with the LUK dual mass fly wheel and clutch kit. Around $2,000 for the parts only. You are in the world of unknowns: - What engine has the E36 got? 2.5L or less and the 228mm clutch is good. > than 2.5L or forced induction/performance tune, 240mm clutch is the one you want. Both fit in the 220g bell housing. - Where did the transmission come from? E36 and early E46 have the same number of splines on the transmission input shaft. Late model E46's have a different number. This impacts on the clutch kit you purchase. - Duel Mass Flywheels are expensive, but they work well. Some single mass flywheels have chatter in neutral, others don't. Others will have experience here and can tell you what works. Suggest you remove the transmission and have a look before you purchase parts. Also suggest that you invest in a new set of bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. These can be used 1.5 times on average. They have a special coating on the threads to stop them from galling in the back of the block. Some people get away with reusing the bolts a couple of times. Others get a galled bolt half way in on the first clutch change. This leaves you in a world of pain. Cutting the bolt off and cutting a new thread or time-sert in a tight place. Sometimes results in pulling the engine to get access. Edit If you have a dual mass flywheel, you need to check it carefully. While the surface may look OK, you need to check the condition of the rubber between the 2 mases. I think the spec for the dual mass fly wheel is 10 degree of rotation between masses. Count the teeth on the starter ring and work out how many = 10 degrees. Grab the clutch and see how much rotational slop there is before the engine turns. Count the teeth that move past a fixed reference point and see if it's more than 10 degrees. If it is, then don't reuse the dual mass flywheel.

Southebys has a 507 going under the hammer on 17 September 2021. If interested, you had better raid the piggy bank and under mattress safe to raise enough money. https://www.classic-trader.com/uk/cars/listing/bmw/507/507/1958/251303?utm_source=Weekly&utm_medium=E-Mail&utm_campaign=Newsletter

Yes that is the engine code for the M52B28 single VANOS engine. I'll let others answer your other questions.

Have a really good look under the intake at the sump level. You'll find 2 sets of numbers. One is the the engine number and the other is the engine type number. Use the attached file to identify your engine. If it's out of an E36, then you should have a M52B28 engine. Something like 28 6 S 4 BMW Engine ID sheet.pdf

It's not uncommon on the E46 forums to see the USA owners using such vacuum devices to fill/bleed the M54 engine.

I have the Foxwell NT530 scanner with BMW software. Not a bad mid range scanner. I like it. Use it in OBD2 mode for fuel trim diagnostics (trims in %) and general engine work. Use it in BMW mode for all other modules. It does most of the stuff that INPA does. It has a little less fun functionality in the "Activation" menus than INPA. The BMW software also covers OBD1/ADS for the older BMW's like E30's and some E36's etc. One thing it does not do, is it will not code new/replacement modules.

Your photo does not show the alignment spec that they used. Was it correct for your car? Both of my Z3's are built the same, yet there are 3 different alignment spec's that have been used on them over the years. It all comes down to the tech's ability to pick the correct spec.

When you crank the engine, does the Tacho jump up a bit? If it does then your crank sensor is working. If the Tacho is flat lined, then look at the crank sensor.

You have an interesting control systems problem. To stop the alarm/light/limp-mode coming in at idle/low rev's, you need to be able to either: - Arm the alarm based on a certain rev level, say 25 PSI when over 2,000 rpm - Vary the alarm with a model, say 5 PSI below normal oil pressure. Needs an oil pressure gage so you can do the modelling. For flicking the DME into limp mode, all you need to do is find a sensor signal that when lost, put the DME into limp mode, then put a relay contact into the signal that is driven from your oil pressure monitor. I'm not up to date with the N54's, but on the later automatic E46's, the loss of the MAF signal put the EGS into limp mode. The DME runs on Alpha-N's for air control, which don't harm the engine in any way

Arrhh, so it's the Alpina drivers that are giving the rest of us BMW owners the bad rap on poor parking skills.

Even Ferrari has a shooting brake in it's stable. A bit more "Clown Shoe-ish" (Z3 coupe) than the Z4 shape.

Read this thread. It will get you started: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/fuel-trims-lean-codes-misfires-and-how-to-diagnose-p0101-p0174-and-more.1284608/ Getting a cheap OBD2 scanner so you can do your own engine tests does not cost a lot. Get OBD Fusion on your smart device and buying the cheap OBD2 adapter (WIFI for Apple or Bluetooth for android) gets you set up. See this thread: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/obd-fusion.1240733/#post-18380161

There is an adapter cable for putting facelift Z3 seats into a pre-facelift Z3. Part number 61106916218 See: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/adapter-tubing/61106916218/

I have recently got a couple of dash cam's for the cars after nearly getting cleanup up by a young driver on a back country road. Remember that the dash cam is recording, so its a two way street. The footage can be used for your insurance purposes after an incident and the police can use it to look at your driving infractions. GPS - Shows speed and location. Very good evidence if you are within the speed limit. - Shows the Police how much spirited driving you do and if you were speeding. Camera Angle of View - Get as wide as you can. 110 degrees is not really wide enough. You want to be able to see and prove that other car did not stop at the stop sign on the side street. Memory card size - Loop recording is a must have - A 4GB card gives about 20 minutes of recording time. G- Shock Recording - This is where the shock of the accident tells the dash cam to save and protect the most recent footage. It's a must have if you run a small memory card. Otherwise the camera keeps recording after the accident and records over the accident footage. You will likely to forget to pull the power lead on the camera after the accident. Super-Cap battery - Provides power for the camera to save the most recent footage when the power is turned off. So if your positive battery lead pyrotechnic goes off during the accident and cut the power, the Camera can still save the accident footage. Mounting - Good old rubber suctions cap mounts are sort of OK. They will fall off on hot days and be a pain to get to stick if the inside of the windscreen is dirty. - Sticky pad mounts are better. Just make sure you know what type they are for replacement, when you have your windscreen replaced. Power Supply - Needs to be hot in start and run. Not hot all the time. BMW cigarette lighter sockets are typically hot all the time and using an adapter in the socket puts too many wires around the gear lever. - A Separate USB power supply wired into a hot in start and run supply works well. I have this one in my Z3's and E46 from Aliexpress. It is mounted under the center console with the wire coming out from under the side of the console. The three 2A USB supplies allows for a GPS, Dash-cam and charging a phone all at the same time with the wires away from the gear lever. Plus no holes drilled or other cosmetic changes made. - Power supply wires can be run up the inside of the A pillar etc. to hide them or left exposed.

BMW Standard Tools on the E46Fanatics forum works well. It is INPA plus the other software tools needed for module changes etc. https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/how-to-install-bmw-standard-tools.1274003/ I also have a Foxwell NT530 scanner with BMW software. It's not too bad for a hand held scanner. Works in both OBD2 and BMW modes. Plus it has a data logger. I use it in OBD2 mode for general engine issues like rich/lean running problems, as the OBD2 fuel trim information is easier to understand.

I saw your tour twice. I was in the Glen Tanner Cafe when your tour came down out of Mt Cook. Noticed your nice E30 Baur with the top rolled back. Then latter that same day or the next day (can't remember) in Tekapo, as you headed towards Fairly. You must have had some beautiful days for travel. With the Autumn colours out (why I was in the McKenzie Country) the country side must have been great to see.

Welcome to the forum That's a nice looking car. If you are interested in going out for drives with other BMW owners, keep a eye on the Christchurch section of the Meetings forum: https://bimmersport.co.nz/forum/27-christchurch/ The Christchurch club has a pub night chat every month. Hey, the next one is tomorrow 5th May. Plus there is a monthly car run. Regards Murray

Welcome Chad Snape look is looking great in the back seat with his yellow bandanna. The E34 is looking good too. Regards Murray

Image is broken. What year is your car?

This thread came up recently in a Z3 forum. It may be of interest. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2446662-Second-of-two-problems-DISA-valve-vacuum-leak

There is a "Vince Bar" group buy going on over at E46Fanatics. Don't know if it applies to your car? https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/vincebar-group-buy.1288206/

Yes you are correct, the M44 DME has always been OBD2, but the rest of the car's computers are normally ADS prior to 03/98.

I could be wrong, but I recall reading somewhere that the change over date for all E36's to full OBD2 was 03/98 build date. I now that is correct for the Z3 E36/7. You still have to use the 20 pin connector under the bonnet but INPA with the USB lead and OBD2 to 20 pin connector adapter cable is all you need. If you are looking for a scanner that talks OBD1/ADS, check out the Foxwell NT530 with BMW software. I got one of these so I can work on the older Z3's with build dates prior to 03/98. It's not bad as a scanner and even has a data logger.

For E36's and E46's I use INPA to fault find the central locking. You can see door contacts, bonnet/hood contacts and watch the action of the central locking as it works. This is all in the General module (ZKE). Plus you can "activate" the remote locking as if the key button had been pushed. Think you can even see the key button being pushed. Helps to check that the key is actually synch-ed to the car and if the problem is in the central locking or not. Not sure if this applies to the E31, haven't had a play with one yet.