Eagle

Yes you can't claim exemption but certain businesses will refund you the VAT as above.

Most places have never charged me tax regardless but some places ive ordered stuff from in the UK will charge VAT for domestic export deliveries. but you could get VAT refunded upon proof of export via license

Probably just DOT 4. Penrite is what i use now, i wish the 4.4L was around back in the day as it would of saved me a sh*t tonne of $

I got brass brake caps for lines and calipers but as above i just use varying brake clamps most of the time

I was meaning putting the axle nut back on the shaft to secure it so you can try and get the rotor off again I think going to need a some more gear if you want to do it by yourself. You still going to be a wheel bearing puller kit or big rod and plates with correct diameters to get the actual bearing out and in.

Ive used my Koken 3\8" E12 and bar on every BMW ive owned (and a few Mercedes) without issue, if you need more power then you can slip a jack handle, pipe etc on the bar. It can take a little wiggling to move the socket past the axle boot (worse at lower positions obviously) but i guarantee it will work. What stopping you from pushing back in the axle and putting so you can reattach the puller. Ive never used a butane torch so maybe they aren't quite as effective as LPG but it can take awhile when using low temp torches. Heat + slide hammer with a towel or puller is what ive always used to pull hubs but im not sure how you planned to remove the hubs even if you got the rotor off.

I don't really understand your description but the half shaft is free on the wheel hub spline now? When you saying inner bolts are you referring to the torx diff output flange torx bolts?

You'd want the SLS setup is working properly, so many ive driven had shot accumulators ($350 ea local when i looked years ago and cannot be imported as you normal would). Still prefer it over air setup though.

Doesn't appear to take much for the flap develop some play causing a rattle,but the pin coming out would take a fair bit of wear. Its a worse case horror story imo and would think it would be very loud leading up to it.

Which one? The one Christchurch looks the best if its just a sensor fault. Its had at least had some work done also.

Ive only had issues with M43 ones myself. One of them threw a lean code and rattled and both had split diaphragms which gave a little idle surge and some loss of performance. I only replaced my M54 one because of a vaccum leak at the seal Haven't hear many N52 running good or bad tbh.

Cant hear anything tbh but you tried running with the the DISA unplugged

Oh right. Never had any trouble with my motive one but i only use it for pressurizing the reservoir so don't actual fill it up.

I believe the proper BMW tool is a metal plate which you bolt the slave onto and wind in the bolts compressing the rod. You can do it yourself with a one man bleeder system and pushing the rod by hand or against the bellhousing etc depending on how strong you are. Helps to have some keep watch the fluid level though. Are you are talking about too much pressure pushing the cylinder out the bore? I suppose you could always reverse bleed with a decent syringe

If you are sure there is no air in the system then its likely the master. Ive always had to remove the slave, rotate it with the bleeder is facing upwards then push in the rod while the bleed screw is open to get out the trapped air. A lot easier with pressure bleeder.

LPG torch would have it off in a few mins with that puller on it. Don't know if it heat gun would generate enough heat doing the same but you could try. Otherwise it may be less hassle to pay a garage etc to do the heating part.

Probably not if you have to remove them twice but still a good upgrade for any car, not as hard to install as i expected. In my experience ive never felt any difference when using stiffer(street grade poly bushings) as opposed to good condition OEM rubber.

Wheels certainly make the difference. Id measure the front ride height and check it after a few days of driving, mine ended up settling some more making my first alignment at BMW a big money waster. No holders\surrounds are for weight reduction. Need some M-sport swaybars if anything.

Yeah ive bought some well priced stuff at the dealers lately but i dont know how far that extends or for how long. It maybe new old stock given the car. It wouldn't surprise me if the ones complaining buy other products from overseas for personal use to save money instead of buying the product locally, not many people would pay 2x or more for the same product given the choice. Saving money usually requires putting in some time\effort which is why more probably don't do it. For me the Govt\IRD is the only winner here, the local business point is a baseless empathic spin for those who are are lacking foresight.

What are the springs?

They can't even price it realistically so what would they know about covers

Yeah im well aware but sometimes its not worth using them it due to excessive shipping costs. USPS were the best in my experience but they all are expensive these days. Id hate to know the amount of $ ive spent on postage from overseas.

Just pick it up in 2 years for half the price, similar mileage and add it on

That's why i usually do multiple orders under $400, spaced apart. Im sure it ends up costing more long term in shipping costs but as soon as Customs (also NZ post these days) are involved the process slows to a crawl. It's a lot of work to make a simple GST payment at the moment.

What pads did you get out of interest?