Jacko 2157 Report post Posted November 11, 2018 (edited) Anyone ever replaced the bush on an E8/9x blower motor? Ive lubed mine previously using a light machine oil, and it solved it for 6 months, now its squeeking again. Spending $200 on a new assembly seems crazy when its just the bush ? Tempted to try pull it out and replace it with a bearing. Edited November 11, 2018 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Young Thrash Driver 1020 Report post Posted November 11, 2018 1 hour ago, gjm said: The cap unscrews without any problem - it's what is normally in the cap (and seals in the reservoir neck) which is pulling free. My biggest concern is damaging the reservoir. I had one break but it left enough to get some polygrips onto it. You could drive two screws into it and then lay a screwdriver between them to wind it out. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted November 22, 2018 Did I accidentally buy the first e46 330 convertible? WBABS52010EH85001, manufactured 02/02/2000, has the following options S916A Dummy-SALAPA (development vehicle?) S925A Dummy-SALAPA S991A Pre-production management Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted November 22, 2018 1 hour ago, eliongater said: Did I accidentally buy the first e46 330 convertible? WBABS52010EH85001, manufactured 02/02/2000, has the following options S916A Dummy-SALAPA (development vehicle?) S925A Dummy-SALAPA S991A Pre-production management maybe a nz display car Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alisterh 26 Report post Posted November 23, 2018 According to this it looks like you may have the second https://forum.bmwland.ru/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=16898 BS52 = 330Ci CONVERTIBLE CHASSIS RANGE - EH85000 - EH89999 1 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZ00Z3 187 Report post Posted November 23, 2018 I've got a 3.0 L Z3 with both 916 development vehicle and 991 pre series management in the VIN decode. Anyone know what these codes mean? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted December 3, 2018 E46 msport steering wheel airbag emblem, mines been removed (perhaps by a knife!?). The airbag's been replaced under the recall according to BMW. Is my best bet to find a replacement emblem and stick it on (not sure how that works if it goes off) or find a replacement airbag? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted December 3, 2018 (edited) 7 hours ago, eliongater said: E46 msport steering wheel airbag emblem, mines been removed (perhaps by a knife!?). The airbag's been replaced under the recall according to BMW. Is my best bet to find a replacement emblem and stick it on (not sure how that works if it goes off) or find a replacement airbag? So the emblem was removed after the airbag way recently replaced? Either way, it's a $5 v's $100's proposition and on that basis alone I'd replace the emblem only, your airbag is practically brand new. I suspect the whole front flap folds up upon inflation (needs to be confirmed) and in that case replacing the aluminium emblem is simple, just get one from ebay. Edited December 3, 2018 by M3AN 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz 1061 Report post Posted December 4, 2018 On 12/3/2018 at 2:40 PM, eliongater said: E46 msport steering wheel airbag emblem, mines been removed (perhaps by a knife!?). The airbag's been replaced under the recall according to BMW. Is my best bet to find a replacement emblem and stick it on (not sure how that works if it goes off) or find a replacement airbag? Emblem comes with the airbagand can't buy new individually so best bet to find one 2nd hand or aftermarket 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lord_jagganath 421 Report post Posted December 22, 2018 a Friend's E87 116i couldn't start and was diagnosed as having some computer issues. after getting that fixed for 2.1k, it still couldn't start, and as such, the company Auckland Mobile Mechanics suggested t hat they should replace the engine for 4.5k. I can't help but feel they are being taken for a ride. invoice as below. I wonder if we can pull the car out? and who are the best guys to go to? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted December 22, 2018 8 hours ago, lord_jagganath said: a Friend's E87 116i couldn't start and was diagnosed as having some computer issues. after getting that fixed for 2.1k, it still couldn't start, and as such, the company Auckland Mobile Mechanics suggested t hat they should replace the engine for 4.5k. I can't help but feel they are being taken for a ride. invoice as below. I wonder if we can pull the car out? and who are the best guys to go to? Sounds like fitters rather than mechanics. You don't replace an engine just because it doesn't start! Get it out of there and take it to a BMW specialist. Which one may be dictated a little by current location (and a shame that Glenn has closed up shop) but there are good people around. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.W Ltd 950 Report post Posted December 22, 2018 Get the vehicle to BMWorkshop Grey Lynn or Botany in the new year. They are closed for the holiday period now 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lord_jagganath 421 Report post Posted December 22, 2018 Thanks for that Graham and Glenn, I'll get them to do that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted December 22, 2018 sh*t yeah, sounds like someone hasnt scanned/diagnosed the car properly, and actually gotten to the root cause. Thats a lot of money they have just burned for probably no reason. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted December 22, 2018 E36 spinning ignition barrel issue. Mine seems to do it some times, and the key just free spins. You wiggle it a bit and eventually it works and keeps working ok for a bit. I have googled and some people say there is a pin that just needs to be aligned, but has anyone here fixed this before and was it that simple or should i just replace the barrel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtydoogle 383 Report post Posted December 22, 2018 Just drill and grub screw it in place, have done a few with no issues 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted December 23, 2018 32 minutes ago, dirtydoogle said: Just drill and grub screw it in place, have done a few with no issues Like this thread? just a screw through the housing? https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1518698-Spinning-ignition-lock-cylinder-tumbler-fix-WITHOUT-having-to-buy-any-new-parts 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtydoogle 383 Report post Posted December 26, 2018 That's the one 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted February 11, 2019 Replacing a water pump... Recommendation for the o-ring seal is to lubricate with white lithium grease to assist sealing and assembly. I thought I had some... But no. Could I (sparingly) use red rubber grease instead? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.W Ltd 950 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 Yes you can Graham. But if there are signs of corrosion inside the housing I would use loctite master gasket 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 4 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said: Yes you can Graham. But if there are signs of corrosion inside the housing I would use loctite master gasket Thanks Glenn. Clean as a whistle in the seal land. Quite remarkable actually, as the pump has obviously been leaking, or has leaked, for a while. Car was parked up for months and while the 'top' of the pulley shaft is beautiful, the lower 2/3 has surface rust. I'll sparingly apply red rubber grease. It's to lubricate and seal - I thought a water-resistant non-setting grease would be good. Thought about vaseline, but there's much less heat resistance there. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 (edited) M62B44. Probably a TU engine... It's in a 2002 model year Range Rover. What goes wrong with them? Are they expensive to fix? I had someone contact me about one with "engine problems" and the dealer apparently "suggest rebuild or replacement." Edit: Just been advised that it's "timing chain failure," "unsure about other internal damage," and that the "dealer suggests engine replacement. Could be anything from $6000 to $11000." What damage does a failed timing chain present in these? Is the dealer scaremongering, or is it likely that there is 220kg of scrap metal in the engine bay? It's cheap. Might be a bit of fun, if I can sort it without throwing a mortgage at it. Edited February 12, 2019 by gjm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andrewm 236 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 (edited) Plastic guides disintegrate then chain flaps about and chews up engine casing and nearby parts and puts metal shavings into engine. Usually makes a horrific noise before catastrophic failure and you can just replace chain and guides and flush engine oil. Will be 16-30 hours labour though. Second hand m62 can probably be had for cheap. Check oil filter in sun for metal filings, check sump for plastic guides pieces and metal filings. Edited February 12, 2019 by andrewm 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1662 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 Depends what you mean by cheap and what the car is worth if its fixed. IIRC the full timing chain kit it self was $1000-$1500 depending on how far you go + shipping and taxes. Then you need to buy or borrow the timing tools and have the tools and time to do the rest of the required work. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 9 hours ago, andrewm said: Plastic guides disintegrate then chain flaps about and chews up engine casing and nearby parts and puts metal shavings into engine. Usually makes a horrific noise before catastrophic failure and you can just replace chain and guides and flush engine oil. Will be 16-30 hours labour though. Second hand m62 can probably be had for cheap. Check oil filter in sun for metal filings, check sump for plastic guides pieces and metal filings. Sounds like a lot will depend on just how long noises were ignored for! 1 hour ago, Eagle said: Depends what you mean by cheap and what the car is worth if its fixed. IIRC the full timing chain kit it self was $1000-$1500 depending on how far you go + shipping and taxes. Then you need to buy or borrow the timing tools and have the tools and time to do the rest of the required work. Time, I have. Tools... Probably. (With the likely exception of timing tools specific to the M62.) Value? Possibly. If it works to be $2-3k in total (on top of purchase price) it might be worth doing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
