Quick Questions

[Vass 830]

That's the one. Part itself isn't too expensive but getting to it is a bit of a mission so labour will be the biggest chunk of the cost unless you go the DIY route. Ideally, you'd do both sides as well - if one's worn out then the other likely won't be far behind either. Then once it's all apart, you might discover the shocks are worn out as well and have no rebound... 

[C-130 Hercules 571]

Yes sir. You'll need to get it to a shop. 

[jon dee 500]

That's what you are looking for... the lighter coloured bit on the top is the actual bump stop. The black tube that clips onto the bump stop is a dust cover to keep the spear and seal clear of grit etc. 

[M3AN 4016]

18 hours ago, Liiiam said:

Hey mate, that would be this flesh light/number 4?

Yes, but get the motorsport ones, not the standard ones, part 33536858240 I think but verify yourself. And as above, do both L+R at the same time. Keep in mind that this will require removal of rear suspension so you probably want to verify your shocks, springs, and spring pads don't also need replacing. A mechanic can probably tell this with a visual inspection.

[gjm 3258]

Apologies for the lack of model specificity...

Does anyone know if the BMW-appropriate OBD2 to USB diagnostic lead is the same as a Lexus one?

[arktis 58]

I’ve just installed a new supply hose and I’ve noticed the lower hose to the transmission cooler is touching the block. Is this ok?

The main connector to the water pump is slotted, so I can’t rotate it away from the block.

[arktis 58]

On 11/20/2023 at 6:14 PM, E63 said:

I’ve just installed a new supply hose and I’ve noticed the lower hose to the transmission cooler is touching the block. Is this ok?

The main connector to the water pump is slotted, so I can’t rotate it away from the block.

I'm an idiot. This is the waterpump. For a novice, looking at a pic on RealOEM is one thing, and the engine itself is another.

[euroriffic 609]

Where has everyone mounted their seatbelt mounts on the tunnel of an e36? Best place I found was right where the centre hanger mounts and think I’ll have too much angle if I move it back by the drive shaft hoop 

[arktis 58]

Found a lovely puddle of oil under the car after it sat for a few weeks.

Are we saying I need new VANOS solenoid seals? Can't reaaally see evidence of it being timing cover gasket. Might have bumped something when I was replacing vacuum pump seals. Underside of vacuum pump is dry as a bone. Biggest concentration of oil seems to be in pic attached under the VANOS. Oil doesn't go any higher than this.

[KwS 2425]

Doesnt look like a lot of wet oil there to make a puddle. Have you looked under it and checked its not something like the oil pan gaskets?

[arktis 58]

37 minutes ago, KwS said:

Doesnt look like a lot of wet oil there to make a puddle. Have you looked under it and checked its not something like the oil pan gaskets?

Funny you should mention this, after jacking up the car I noticed a pool forming right under the centre, under the oil pan. I only have 2 jackstands so I can't get fully under it to check. I'll either have to buy another jack (I only have low profile) and some jackstands, or I'll just take it into Page and get it on the hoist.

I'm pretty upset it looks like the oil pan, looks like such an absolute pig of a job that I don't have any of the equipment for.

[Spinner99 55]

+1 for oil pan.  I don't know the size of the pool, but it sounds bigger than the diameter of a tea cup?  It might be helpful to understand if the puddle continues to grow over time (suggesting it's leaking from a place with a constant supply of oil when the engine isn't running such as the sump) or the puddle gets to a certain size then stops (suggesting it's leaking from somewhere with a limited supply of oil when not running such as a vanos solenoid). 

My thought is that if the puddle is appearing when the engine isn't running and it's growing the longer it's sitting there it's probably a low down leak around the sump area.  There's also possibilities of leaks from the oil cooler and it's lines though. There may be a little oil in the odd place in the upper parts of the engine but I wouldn't expect any significant quantity to be able to leak out once the engine isn't running.

Did you have a feel for roughly where the puddle was relative to the car?  e.g. was it in the front right corner ?  If you haven't already it could help to take the front under under body cover (the dust cover, not the metal support one) off and leave it off so you can see where the pool is and focus in that area.  Oil can travel down hoses etc so the leak may not be exactly above where the pool is, but it gives you a good start on where to start looking.

 

[M3AN 4016]

On 2/18/2024 at 2:23 PM, euroriffic said:

Where has everyone mounted their seatbelt mounts on the tunnel of an e36?

@sweetm3 - Mark has done this w/cert.

[arktis 58]

On 3/18/2024 at 8:17 PM, Spinner99 said:

+1 for oil pan.  I don't know the size of the pool, but it sounds bigger than the diameter of a tea cup?  It might be helpful to understand if the puddle continues to grow over time (suggesting it's leaking from a place with a constant supply of oil when the engine isn't running such as the sump) or the puddle gets to a certain size then stops (suggesting it's leaking from somewhere with a limited supply of oil when not running such as a vanos solenoid). 

My thought is that if the puddle is appearing when the engine isn't running and it's growing the longer it's sitting there it's probably a low down leak around the sump area.  There's also possibilities of leaks from the oil cooler and it's lines though. There may be a little oil in the odd place in the upper parts of the engine but I wouldn't expect any significant quantity to be able to leak out once the engine isn't running.

Did you have a feel for roughly where the puddle was relative to the car?  e.g. was it in the front right corner ?  If you haven't already it could help to take the front under under body cover (the dust cover, not the metal support one) off and leave it off so you can see where the pool is and focus in that area.  Oil can travel down hoses etc so the leak may not be exactly above where the pool is, but it gives you a good start on where to start looking.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I’ve managed to grab a slightly bigger jack, and another set of stands, so I can get under it properly and investigate. I reckon there’s a high chance it’s the oil pan. My understanding is I’ll need an engine support bar, and I’ll have to drop the subframe.

Are there any other jobs I can do while I’m down there? For example, would it give me good access to the alternator bracket gasket?

It could also make sense to replace the engine mounts, but I’m not sure how often they need doing, or how to tell they need replacing. 

[Spinner99 55]

1 hour ago, E63 said:

Thanks for the reply.

I’ve managed to grab a slightly bigger jack, and another set of stands, so I can get under it properly and investigate. I reckon there’s a high chance it’s the oil pan. My understanding is I’ll need an engine support bar, and I’ll have to drop the subframe.

Are there any other jobs I can do while I’m down there? For example, would it give me good access to the alternator bracket gasket?

It could also make sense to replace the engine mounts, but I’m not sure how often they need doing, or how to tell they need replacing. 

Morning,  I haven't taken a look under my car to confirm but looking at some photos online you shouldn't need to lower the subframe if you're just doing the lower oil pan ( I'm looking at this post https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/n62-lower-oil-pan-sump-gasket-replacment.1358261/ )  .  The upper oil pan yes, I think that would be a lower the subframe type job.  

If you want to do the alternator gasket with the subframe lowered I'm sure that would create more room/access there's a bolt or two around the power steering pump that were difficult to get to but might be easier if the subframe wasn't there, but you don't need to lower the subframe to do that job if you don't want to.  You do need to support the engine though to remove one of the engine mounts as the mount attaches over or on (I can't quite remember) the alternator bracket. I found putting the bracket back on to be a PITA and second set of hands was quite useful for that.  If you want a hand let me know.  My other advice is the oil cooler loved to leak oil so be prepared to contain that   I think the worst part of the alternator bracket job was getting the alternator back in, I don't know what I was doing wrong but I think it took me 2 hours 😮 
 

Replacing the engine mount on the alternator bracket side would be a great job to do while doing the alternator bracket as you've half got it off already.  The drivers side would be extra work.  Sorry I don't know how to tell if they're past their useful life either  

[arktis 58]

3 hours ago, Spinner99 said:

Morning,  I haven't taken a look under my car to confirm but looking at some photos online you shouldn't need to lower the subframe if you're just doing the lower oil pan ( I'm looking at this post https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/n62-lower-oil-pan-sump-gasket-replacment.1358261/ )  .  The upper oil pan yes, I think that would be a lower the subframe type job.  

If you want to do the alternator gasket with the subframe lowered I'm sure that would create more room/access there's a bolt or two around the power steering pump that were difficult to get to but might be easier if the subframe wasn't there, but you don't need to lower the subframe to do that job if you don't want to.  You do need to support the engine though to remove one of the engine mounts as the mount attaches over or on (I can't quite remember) the alternator bracket. I found putting the bracket back on to be a PITA and second set of hands was quite useful for that.  If you want a hand let me know.  My other advice is the oil cooler loved to leak oil so be prepared to contain that   I think the worst part of the alternator bracket job was getting the alternator back in, I don't know what I was doing wrong but I think it took me 2 hours 😮 
 

Replacing the engine mount on the alternator bracket side would be a great job to do while doing the alternator bracket as you've half got it off already.  The drivers side would be extra work.  Sorry I don't know how to tell if they're past their useful life either  

Thanks man this is really helpful! Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to get under it and have a look. I see in your post there's a TIS for it too so I'll jump in ISTA and have a look.

I will be very happy if I don't have to drop the subframe. It's quite a daunting task to do solo for the first time..

[Neil McCauley 394]

Hey team, what are the chance of fitting a 19x8.5 ET17 wheel under F3x guards?

[balancerider 758]

5 minutes ago, Neil McCauley said:

Hey team, what are the chance of fitting a 19x8.5 ET17 wheel under F3x guards?

Lack of offset might be the issue. I think it’ll clear with spacers (especially if it’s an x drive with stock suspension)

[Gaz 1061]

Other way round. Definitely won't need spacers as spacers push it closer to the guards. 

Will need a guard roll, small tyre size and maybe some camber depending on how low you are

[Palazzo 477]

Trying to remove an Allen key bolt. Someone has been at it before and completely rounded the inside of the head. Can’t get anything to hold and the nut won’t loosen on the other end without pressure. Any ideas? 

[Neil McCauley 394]

Use a Multi tool to cut a cross into the top that fits the biggest screw driver that you own? 

[Palazzo 477]

Hmmn. Don’t have a multi tool, hacksaw perhaps.

Its only a small bolt.

Edited June 15 by Palazzo

[Eagle 1662]

If vice grips cant hold it then id just cut the nut off

[Palazzo 477]

1 hour ago, Eagle said:

If vice grips cant hold it then id just cut the nut off

No room either way. Full disclosure, it’s a rowing machine. Tried vice grips. Think the best way is to cut a slot in like Neil suggested. Where do you buy a multi tool?

[topless 13]

I use a torx male socket to get these out with reasonable success (come across this quite often). Hammer a slightly oversize one into the hole and then carefully try to get it to shift slightly backwards and fowards before trying to fully undo it. Give the head of the stripped allen key bolt a good number of axial blows before hammering in the torx socket as this will help shock the binding threads loose.