Quick Questions

[zero 1162]

Yes, #4 seems to be the jobbie. The e46 has the problem - the coolant fell out all over the road and leaks like a sieve when refilled. I pulled to expansion tank out expecting to find a hose or hose clip problem, and found this - I dunno if it's the root cause of the leak, but I'm sure it isn't helping any.

Any idea where to get one?

Try the forum sponsors.

Also bear in mind that the coolant tank always fails on these cars, so you should swap it out at the same time.

Sometimes the back plate can be salvaged.

[Terroth 5]

Bedding in OEM / OEM+ brake pads, really necessary or nah? Been failed on soft brakes and unequal rear braking (100 / 140, 26% difference). Replacing pads all round, cleaned up the guide pins, caliper pistons didn't seem stuck and pushed back in fine, also rebleeding the system.

Anymore suggestions for making sure i dont fail the recheck on brakes?

[gjm 3258]

This is how mine looked when i replaced the bulb. IIRC there was only one in the middle, when it was blown the whole thing was dark.

Here's what we have:

So - just a single bulb to replace?

[KwS 2425]

if i recall, yeah it was one in the middle of the unit. Like dis, http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-CLIMATE-CONTROL-ILLUMINATION-BULB-LAMP-1992-1993-1994-1995-318i-325i-M3-/391234004788

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?417779-e36-Climate-Control-Light-Replace-(analog)

[gjm 3258]

if i recall, yeah it was one in the middle of the unit. Like dis, http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-CLIMATE-CONTROL-ILLUMINATION-BULB-LAMP-1992-1993-1994-1995-318i-325i-M3-/391234004788

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?417779-e36-Climate-Control-Light-Replace-(analog)

p/n 63210406930, superceded by 63217167000. $12.50 in the eBay link, or $1.00 from Pelican Parts.

Probably best to get it as part of a larger order, though... ;-)

[KwS 2425]

its just a standard little 1.2w bulb. Can get them from Merc dealers or likely jaycar or repco. Merc number is N072601012230 if it helps

[gjm 3258]

its just a standard little 1.2w bulb. Can get them from Merc dealers or likely jaycar or repco. Merc number is N072601012230 if it helps

Popped into Repco on the way home to get some engine coolant. Had to go through the boxes with the desk guy (can't really call him a parts guy!) but found a couple of 12V 1.2W bulbs. $3.50 each seems a bit steep, but it's a done deal now.

Most difficult bit was getting the fascia back on again!

[polley 916]

Bedding in OEM / OEM+ brake pads, really necessary or nah? Been failed on soft brakes and unequal rear braking (100 / 140, 26% difference). Replacing pads all round, cleaned up the guide pins, caliper pistons didn't seem stuck and pushed back in fine, also rebleeding the system.

Anymore suggestions for making sure i dont fail the recheck on brakes?

Go somewhere else that doesn't have a brake tester.

[huff3r 347]

1990 316i (E30)

Runs rough when starting cold, blows lots of white smoke, after a good sustained rev at 2000ish it clears and runs smooth as. I'm thinking dirty/worn sparkplugs getting fouled up? Does this sound right?

[LemonHunter 583]

Plugs causing rough running would be from not burning fuel, which would probably result in Black smoke, and a noticeable fuel smell behind the vehicle.  

White is usually water, or oil being burned.

its pretty quick to check plugs, but I'd be looking at checking radiator for bubbles, oil for emulsification, or doing a compression test to check the head gasket or head.

you may have water or oil getting in a couple of cylinders whole cold, but heat expansions closes it up enough to not be an obvious problem.

[huff3r 347]

1 hour ago, EURO V8 said:

Plugs causing rough running would be from not burning fuel, which would probably result in Black smoke, and a noticeable fuel smell behind the vehicle.  

White is usually water, or oil being burned.

its pretty quick to check plugs, but I'd be looking at checking radiator for bubbles, oil for emulsification, or doing a compression test to check the head gasket or head.

you may have water or oil getting in a couple of cylinders whole cold, but heat expansions closes it up enough to not be an obvious problem.

No milk in coolant or oil, both are mint. It could be that the smoke is actually steam from the exhaust and completely unrelated to the rough running. It doesn't seem to need to get a lot warmer to stop the rough running, it's literally hold at 1500rpm for 10seconds and it's fine. It also only runs rough below 1500rpm, above that it's always fine.

[LemonHunter 583]

11 hours ago, huff3r said:

No milk in coolant or oil, both are mint. It could be that the smoke is actually steam from the exhaust and completely unrelated to the rough running. It doesn't seem to need to get a lot warmer to stop the rough running, it's literally hold at 1500rpm for 10seconds and it's fine. It also only runs rough below 1500rpm, above that it's always fine.

I think it's unlikely that any residual water in the exhaust would be vaporised so quickly by a cold engine. 

Pull all your plugs out making a note of their position and post a pic of you like, the colour of plugs, and (dis)similarities tells a lot.

compression test often shows best, while cold and again while hot to find out if any funny business is going on.

could also be a vacuum leak that self plugs once vacuum builds up.

if you idle for a few minutes then pull away aggressively does it dump some smoke of the same colour?

Edited August 4, 2016 by EURO V8
Extra suggestions

[huff3r 347]

I've replaced the plugs anyway but they all looked exactly the same, all just covered in an even coating of carbon but not excessive.

 

If I pull away aggressively it doesn't smoke at all that I can see, certainly not huge plumes.

I think vacuum leak is quite likely, as it idled like crap until I wound the throttle stop up, which I know your not supposed to do but it seemed to work

[Kepes 231]

ARP headstuds for an M20 motor, anywhere I can get them in NZ for a reasonable price or best to just go with somewhere like fcp euro?

[thorburn 121]

I'm fairly sure speedfactor in Tauranga have them. Theyre open on Saturday too. 

[Lucan 196]

I have a set of M20 ARP Studs for sale - PM me if your still looking?

 

Question regarding driveshafts in manual E30's: is there a difference between 320i and 325i? Length wise at least?

[LemonHunter 583]

1 hour ago, Lucan said:

Question regarding driveshafts in manual E30's: is there a difference between 320i and 325i? Length wise at least?

The rear shaft section is always the same length in my experience, regardless of engine, doors or transmission.

the front section is specific length for specific gear boxes. And the hanger in the middle is also different between PFL and later, but the bearing is the same size so you can swap the hanger.

the gear shift mounting plate thing is also specific to gearbox.

you can pull the two sections apart with some jiggling and force.

[Young Thrash Driver 1020]

What does it mean if VTNZ puts a WOF on a car with a cracked hub carrier? Is there someone I can whinge to/ put a rocket up their bum?

[huff3r 347]

First point of call:
https://vtnz.co.nz/contact-us/make-a-complaint/

After that you can also complain to NZTA I believe.

[Scrambler 7]

Hi, Having an issue with an M52 swap. Engine cranking but no fuel and probably no spark delivery. Putting it down to engine ECU not having correct signal from auto trans ECU. Found out I had to splice a wire in after I trimmed down my engine loom.

Looking for Brown black wire that comes from auto transmission ECU as I chopped everything out of my engine loom which was related to the automatic transmission ECU which was stupid.

I've got the harness from the Auto trans ECU and it shows a brown/black wire but I'm having trouble looking for it on the engine loom side so I can splice it into any red/white wire as I assume this makes the engine ecu constantly think its in park and safe to start. Is there a diagram someone can put me on to in order to find it? I've undone my engine loom and most of the wires I cut I left length on and wrapped them so I could join back on if something went wrong but I can' find this little brown/black bugger.

 

thanks

Edited August 27, 2016 by Scrambler

[jom 98]

2 hours ago, Scrambler said:

Hi, Having an issue with an M52 swap. Engine cranking but no fuel and probably no spark delivery. Putting it down to engine ECU not having correct signal from auto trans ECU. Found out I had to splice a wire in after I trimmed down my engine loom.

Looking for Brown black wire that comes from auto transmission ECU as I chopped everything out of my engine loom which was related to the automatic transmission ECU which was stupid.

I've got the harness from the Auto trans ECU and it shows a brown/black wire but I'm having trouble looking for it on the engine loom side so I can splice it into any red/white wire as I assume this makes the engine ecu constantly think its in park and safe to start. Is there a diagram someone can put me on to in order to find it? I've undone my engine loom and most of the wires I cut I left length on and wrapped them so I could join back on if something went wrong but I can' find this little brown/black bugger.

 

thanks

Another thing you might want to check is that the fuel connections to the injectors are on the right way round. They are both the same and it won't work if they are reversed.....

[thorburn 121]

328 rotors and calipers are a direct swap onto a 325? no fiddly diddly with handbrake needed?
can't remember and no time to research

 

[Scrambler 7]

18 hours ago, jom said:

Another thing you might want to check is that the fuel connections to the injectors are on the right way round. They are both the same and it won't work if they are reversed.....

Yep checked that. I've got a test hose hooked up to the fuel filter to show me exactly when fuel will come out so I know I'm on the right track.

Apparently according to the Bentley manual the brown/black wire in the loom is related to an Automatic Transmission Range switch. I'm assuming this tells everything that the car is in park and is ok to start?

Edited August 27, 2016 by Scrambler

[Kepes 231]

I'm removing pistons from an m20 block because of some damage on the cylinder walls which occurred from water getting into one of the cylinders while it was in storage. The cylinders will be re honed

Should I be replacing the piston rings? The block will be used in a turbo application but I'm trying to save money where I can

Thanks

Edited September 4, 2016 by Kepes

[Olaf 3315]

4 hours ago, Kepes said:

I'm removing pistons from an m20 block because of some damage on the cylinder walls which occurred from water getting into one of the cylinders while it was in storage. The cylinders will be re honed

Should I be replacing the piston rings? The block will be used in a turbo application but I'm trying to save money where I can

Thanks

definitely.  if there's water damage on the bores, your rings will also be damaged.  Hell, if you've got it apart, rings and bearings, surely?  And ensure the bottom end (mains, crankshaft end float), are all within spec.  False economy to put it back together with anything less than it needs, IMHO.