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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/12/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
    if you dont like them, why even go to the effort of bringing it up? Either buy the car and fix them yourself (which is cheap), or just go away. In regards to the price, go buy another CSL, right now. You cant? Well thats why the price is what it is. Also cant remember the last time i saw a black CSL available? Oh and alcantara goes smooth and shiney if you so much as look at it. I wouldnt say its "overworn" but maybe hasnt been properly cleaned in a while. It can be easily restored. Its not like the bolster is torn through or torn.
  4. 2 points
    Had two parties view both wanted to buy it but one couldn’t get enough finance and other waiting on insurance payout. Worth the asking price for sure so no thanks to your 5k offer
  5. 2 points
    Installed an Apexi Neo AFC to dial in some fuel corrections today. Making good power before the tune, peak of 177rwkw, but the low end was a bit poor so the tuner put in some more fuel down low and got a decent 10rwkw gain through most of the low to mid range! Now with a peak of 178.1 rwkw, so very pleased. Certainly pulls well in the lower rpm band.
  6. 2 points
    No so sure about that. When you are listing the car as "totally original and immaculate" and "collectors car" then surely that is what it should be. Putting black grilles and cheap trademe carbon splitters onto a CSL and then calling it "totally original" is a bit of a whopper if you ask me. And to be honest, detract totally from the car. Easily corrected though you would hope!
  7. 2 points
    It was on the road and driving for wee bit. I did bunch of maintenance items to get the car up and running, namely a wheel hub that was gone and some lights. Engine was my biggest problem as it had all sorts of developing issues that were a pain in the bum to resolve. The misfire and vacuum leaks being the first. I went through and replaced the entire ignition system - including the spark plugs which I replaced with ones that the M70 community recommends rather than the superseded OEM part - to remove the misfire. The vacuum leaks came from the damned intake to head rubber gaskets that had all cracked because the intake supports on the outside of the engine had completely failed and were straining the gaskets, so I replaced them with some custom solid mounts out of coupling nuts and sealed the rubber gaskets with a wee bit of Royal Blue. It got taken for a nice long road trip from Chch to Picton where it performed amazingly. So effortless on the open road. Exactly what I wanted. I even towed another E34 (parts car) up from down south with and it basically used no extra fuel despite the doubled weight. Actually awesome. But then I had strange over fueling issues (fuel avg. consumption would go from ~10-12l/100km straight up to 39.5l /100kms, which I'm pretty sure is just as high as the display goes rather than the true value), gearbox problems (massive lurch after shifting into reverse that shudders the whole car and other reluctant gear changes), and the odd bit of overheating. Then the smoke came. So I checked, cleaned and set the throttles, fixed exhaust leaks, traced oil leaks, found more developing vacuum leaks, replaced crankcase vent pieces, dropped and checked fuel tank/lines, tried some different oils, swapped ECUs, swapped part like FPRs and throttles from bank to bank. But nothing worked: the oil smoke under acceleration only got worse and overheating became more common. Current theory stands at minor head gasket failure that has developed into major failure on 7-12 cylinder bank. About 250hrs of work on my part only to be beaten again, though I can now take the intake manifolds off in my sleep. The straw that broke the camel's back through was the tandem pump - that supplies hydraulic power steering and power brakes - got a major leak and requires a rebuild. Car simply can't be driven without brakes or steering. To be honest it doesn't really surprise me, the more I looked through the car the more evidence I found of the car having been flogged for 'skidz' between the time you (Andy) owned it and I got it. It's clearly been through some unsavoury hands. Sigh. At this point the issues practically require an engine and gearbox replacement as parts (even just a set of head gaskets) far exceed the value of a 'new' engine and gearbox. Sadly I've yet to get to that point as I've had to return to my other ongoing project car (MR2 AW11 getting a built 7AGE) and it will have to sit until I return from Europe later this year. I'm sorry for the lack of updates guys, but it will return to the road. Hopefully better than ever.
  8. 2 points
    But E34 is the prettiest BMW of all time!
  9. 1 point
    Really proud of our forum seeing this thread. We have a new member here, very little posts, but already made a nice little contribution post to the other newbie asking about first car in the other thread and also managed to get offers for help from complete strangers on this forum with lending tools and advise. What a stark contrast to..
  10. 1 point
    yes..agree with your last sentence, they got it right with this M5, so back it will go to factory grills.. thanks for comment
  11. 1 point
    If the car is mobile you're more than welcome to come to my place and try my toolkit. I also have an electric impact. Ellerslie.
  12. 1 point
    But what about the global warming? :p
  13. 1 point
    What Bbs wheels are you sitting on Kyu
  14. 1 point
    If you are interested in cars, and to explore the dynamic of the car, learn proper car control, and like to learn to work on cars, the late 90s, early 2000 BMW is the best car for that. I am a uni student as well, I have an e36 with M43 that I use as a platform to learn to work on cars. Parts are cheap, and most importantly, there are many of them in pick a part. I bought mine with $500 with a leather interior like new, but everything else is rubbish, no rego, no wof. I have only used parts from pick a part a part from some powerflex bushing, now it drives really good. A few trips to pick a part, you can pretty much rebuild the cooling system and suspension with almost no money. I have found almost new water pump, all alloy radiator, metal thermostat housing, structs in really good condition, near new tires with alloy wheels already balanced for really good price, Get an e36,e46 with colour like silver or dark blue, you don't even need panel beater if you happen to have a minor accident. Comparing to other euro brands of the same budget, BMWs are so much better to work on then Audis, Vws , and Benzs because the problems are well documented. And because they are BMWs they have likely had a stupid previous owner who knew nothing about the car, you will never run out of stuff to fix. the engine wise I would say get an e36 or e46 with 4cylinder if you can't afford petrol. E36 with M44 5mt is the best option, but e46 with M43tu is also good, the power band of the m43 is quite narrow. it is dangerously slow sometimes if coupled with a 4at. I found the 4at from GM terribly bad. it's a "close ratio" 4 speed, meaning it's revving too high for the highway, and gearing way too long in first and second. But they still managed to achieve a very hash shift, it's remarkable. The torque converter clutch lockup logic is the stupidest of all 4at I have driven. 4at use 20% more fuel than 5Mt. The only reason to go for a 4at is that they are half the price of a 5mt. The inline sixes are nice, they are slightly more eco on long drive because of the final drive ratio and higher engine compression ratio, but 2.0 inline six use almost the smae amount of fuel as the 2.5 and 2.8. Inline six coupled with 5at gets very bad fuel eco in city stop and go traffic. In Auckland rush hour you will get 14~15L /100 with auto inline sixes. 5Mt will be like 11~12L while 5MT inline four will be 10L. 11L is it is 4at . Do not test drive an inline six BMW if you can only afford an e36 with 4at, they are addicting and there is no way back. I borrowed an e46 325i 5mt for two days, and now I hate the m43 every day. E36's slow steering rack is perfect for learning to use the steering wheel correctly(which 80% of the driver in Auckland don't). E36's soft suspension is good for some of the bumpy backroad. the power of E36 318is with 5mt allow you to go flat-out everywhere and still can slide around in the wet to make it exciting. I honestly don't know why old Toyota Corolla is so overpriced, and people still buy them. many models from Nissan from the same era provide similar reliability at half the price.
  15. 1 point
    Something you might do @Michael. ?
  16. 1 point
    5000 is all it is worth, . but i give 5k cash for it.. all it is worth, no interest on trademe !!
  17. 1 point
    Not sure how cheap\easy it is to rebuild or obtain another gearbox and\or engine but personally if i found a cheap V8 touring id be turning this into parts car and building up a M60\M62. I respect the M70 but its has too many disadvantages compared to the V8. Either way i admire the dedication (this from someone who owned double digits worth of E34's and a few M70\M73's).
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Just stream the World Cup for free. A stream for any sport can be found for nothing on Reddit. There is even a reddit motorsport streams sub. Racing from all over the world. Sky is about to be purchased by one or the other biggest c**ts in industry. Fox or Comcast. Both bidding for it. (Excuse the language but they are both the ultimate forms of scum)
  20. 1 point
    The carbon splitters should be genuine and looks in-line with the CSL model afaik. Also not a fan of the black grills but definitely easily changed. I believe the "whinger" is the same person who was on here recently asking about the E39 M5 and having a go at some of us for not being polite or something. Looks like they have copped a red face feedback as first trade. A+ top class act.
  21. 1 point
    i agree with much of the feedback above. Older Beemers need some loving... you need to be prepared to invest the time and/or money to keep it on the road and enjoy driving it. The critical mix of budget/engagement/ability/need will dictate what you want, and what you can get. Sometimes what we want isn't achievable and we need to get something else in the meantime, until the budget or time resource can catch up - I was in a similar position and bought an e39 525i initially (after owning an e36 318ti some years earlier in Aussie), then quickly wanting more power and a better drive but not having the $$$$ to get it. I bought a $5k Accord Euro; thrashed it as a daily for a year whilst saving another $5k then selling it for $5k and buying my e91... Now I'm at that "more power" point again so may have to repeat the process to save up and get a 335i... sometimes you have to play a long game 😜
  22. 1 point
    Ah well, will just $1 reserve them and see where the market puts the price
  23. 1 point
    Could prob have a E36 M3 EVO, E34 M5, and an E39 M5 for that money!
  24. 1 point
    Thoughts part 2. I have put on just over 3000kms on this now over 2 months. A lot of driving this weekend, went up to omaha, did the little sprint to stillwater and a night drive to piha beach and back. No doubt this is a fantastic little car. So much power, and super comfortable, the ride, seats, suspension, everything about it is comfortable and still sporty at the same time. It really is great. In my previous post I mentioned that the 8 speed gearbox is awesome. A little amendment to this. It is still bloody quick and awesome but I feel like there is a slight limitation with it which is that in the twisty mountain roads, often I find myself fiddling with the gear more than actually focusing on driving. Im not sure which gear to be in half the time. Also because the car is so torque-y even at low revs, I struggle to rev the car out and really hear the engine but I suppose thats what you get with the turbo set up over NA. I realised how much easier and simpler it was when I used to do this same drive back in the days in my old E46 328ci and 330i/ci in which Im usually in 3rd or 4th and sometimes 2nd and can really rev the car out and keep it in the 4000-6000rpm range most of the time. With the 135 I found it easier to just leave it in drive and control the throttle but didnt feel as good because I couldnt keep the car in the high rev range (some part of this was because the roads were slightly wet also and if I gave it too much throttle in 3rd or 4th gear in the 135 I would lose the tail end in an instant). Anyway, its still early days and I am figuring out the car. The car performed remarkably well on the soft bends around matakana on the long straights. It was a real pleasure to drive and less "busy" compared to driving in the mountains. Anyway will keep posting my thoughts on here as I go along. Also should be a little update in the looks department in the next week or so so stay tuned!
  25. 0 points
    https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1663951542 It's going to take some significant work. The impact has popped the windscreen, suggesting deformation around the screen and A-pillars.