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Allanw last won the day on July 19

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About Allanw

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    7th Gear
  • Birthday 11/07/1978

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  • Name
    Allan W
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  • Car
    '01 E39 525i Manual
  • Car 2
    '06 VW Touran 3.2 VR6 6M
  • Car 3
    '72 VW Beetle 1200 ORANGE

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  1. It probably looks much better in real life, (and without the doors - like Olaf says!). I do like the leather... but not the firewood dash.
  2. The taiwanese replacements are as well finished as the genuine BMW standard ones... but they are stronger and last longer.... weird.
  3. But with a proper trans???
  4. Actually... they probably ARE I reckon most Kiwis keep their tyres until they fail a WOF.
  5. ahhh, the 535i. Sound, Fuel consumption and expenses of a 540i Speed of a 530i. Nearly. I suspect too, the manual box livens it up a lot though. Again, our manual M54 525i is like night and day, compared to an auto 525i. I'd pick a manual 525i over an auto 530i even (again , but I have 3 cars, all manual now). Plus, upgrading properly from a 2.5 to 3.0 is easier/cheaper than doing a manual conversion properly. If anyone wants to pay over the odds for a manual E39, they can have ours for $5K I'll even throw in $$$ worth of brand new DMF and clutch kit etc, that it doesn't need yet! At least ours has some options... but not as tidy as that one - poor thing - ravaged by being the taxi for 3 little boys!
  6. But Brent... it's an NZ New one, so would have been perfectly serviced.... BAHAHAHAHAHA! Yeah right!
  7. Every new car has the "model year" identified in the VIN - that would be a sensible starting point. Again, my '72 Beetle was NZ new, and was first registered in 1974 - It's registered as a 1972 model - it is! Our E39 was built November 2000, registered overseas in Feb 2001, and is STILL registered as a 2000 model! It's a 2001 model year, and either way, should already be a 2001 registration based what NZTA says (year of first registration), AND the fact it's a 2001 "model year" - the first facelift year. Then you get hese cars that sit around before being registered, and are registered late, and labelled as later models than they are, because they were never registered previously. In reality, it's the dealer/ person first registering, who is responsible for registering them correctly, and they don't always. At the same time, NZTA is retarded, for even thinking year of first registration was ever a good idea, when the manufacturer leaves the model year in the VIN for all too see - Model year should be the year it's registered as, year of first registration can be stored too, and the rego ALREADY shows the month/year of first registration in NZ.
  8. Don't touch the speed/offset, imp etc. They're all a bit different it seems. "Time/Days" is how many days between inspections, as long as a "with time inspection" setting is on. If you set it at 365, you should get an inspection light every year anyway. I believe "Litres" should be the litres conumed between services. (i.e. you average 10L/100km, 1500L will give you 15K kms.) default = 2450??? Since you have have the "KM SI", set that at 15K too which should also set the SI lights to count down to 15K services. "Litres SI" seems to be the numbers of litres consumed so far?? I'm guessing/googling that one! Does it deplete with driving? On our E39, it only has "Time/Days" and "Litres" available for the SI - I just calculated how many litres we use over 15K and put that in. Seems to work well. I still have the "Time/Days" set at 720, but we also do about 14K per year, and the "inspecton" light just annoys me anyway - I like the SI lights that count down and don't sneak up on you suddenly.
  9. easiest way is with bmw scanner 1.4 - it's recorded in Litres of fuel consumed.
  10. My M54 expansion tank didn't explode until 160 kms The radiator will be the next to go Everything else is done. Ours has High OBC and tells you when the coolant has escaped anyway... and my Mrs stops and phones me EVERY time it "BONGS" at her
  11. Our one seriously has an uneven lack of compresson when it does it - Someone said it had to be the lifters? My Subaru wouldn't stop until the end of my road, and it had NO compression when I cranked! I thought it had broken a cambelt again (that car broke 3!) Anyway - EVERYbody needs to run the engine longer!
  12. savebarn used to have hand cranked gear pumps pretty cheap.
  13. Yeah - pretty much. (I'm makiing some assumptons here, like the starter is actually engaging with the engine and turning it etc) It's not really good for the starter or battery, but foot flat down, crank it for 20 seconds or so at a time then give it a little rest. once it starts to run a bit, you let off the throttle, but may have to use the throttle to keep it running. If it doesn't start running, but you can hear the compression coming back (the RRRrrrRRRRrrrRRRRrrr-like nrmal noise, then try crankiing with your foot off the gas and see if it runs) If it runs, but rough: after about 30 to 60 seconds at about 1500 rpm, shut it off completely, then immediatly restart, if it's smooth, take it for a gentle run up to temp before parking it. Then never do it again My understadning is that the short run, on cold/thick oil, creates really high oil pressure in the system, then shutting it off means that oil pushes into the lifters and they pump up, stoppng the valves closing properly??? Hotwire on here said he see's it fairly often on AA call outs. Basically any time you start the car, you want it to runs for a couple of minutes at least, or wash it after it's been driven, then put it away before it cools all the way down.
  14. Was the engine cold, you started it for about 20 seconds or so, to back up etc, then turned it off and left it sitting??? If yes: It may have pumped the lifters up and is holding valves open - I can make our E39 M54 do it. I push it out of the garage to wash it. If I wash it, then start it, drive in and switch off - gauranteed no start, and it sounds like no compression (whiiiiirs, but no firing). Extended cranking and it slowly starts to get compression and fires. If you run it longer, it doesn't happen. In ours, once it's done it, you hold the throttle wide open, and crank it for quite a while and it will start up rough then get better. Foot gas on the throttle means it shouldn't inject much fuel. I've had a couple of cars that do it... although ones used to wait until the end of my road, and would stall, with no compression and I'd have to sit there cranking for about a minute! (company car!)
  15. Is it cranking slower than normal? Did you have the radio on while washing? You sure the battery isn't flat It doesn't take much for it to result in a non-start.