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Fresh out of paint shop to clean up stone chips and minor dings

Looks like the surgery has paid off with decent dyno results. Car is 100% stock. Being quite a hot day and the dyno cell being even hotter, the sucked air temp was 51 deg C. Not ideal for getting an accurate power run. Stock mapping retards ignition timing if the sucked air temp gets above 40 Deg C. So I came up with an idea... The inlet temp sensor is intergrated in to the passenger side maf.... After about 10 mins the sucked air temp reading was 28deg C. Good for getting a more accurate reading. Big fan to keep the engine cool. Trusty old IBM stink pad with INPA and DIS to keep an eye on the temperatures 234 kw at the wheels with sucked air temp @ 31 deg C.

Come on quit teasing! What is it what is it?

That may sort him out, but what should he do about the brakes?

Having an S50B30 after an M54TUB25 and an M52B28. Life is so good.

Nah, you probably wont like the sound of it, the M5 will ALWAYS sound better!

shut up you, making me miss my M3 more than i already do >_<

This was my fathers car about 8 years ago, it was absolutely mint back then.

Youtube clip

most nissan muppets ripped it out of their cars because they didnt understand it, and it caused them to overcook it when dirfting. I actually really likes how it felt to drive my R33s with the hicas (R33 onwards is all electronic, anything older is a hydraulic rack).

The time has finally come to part with my precious, will go on trademe in the next few days... 1999 NZ new e39 540i touring, M62b44tu, 6 speed conversion approx 2 years ago, motor has had new timing chain and guides / tensioners, rear subframe bushes have been done as have both rear air springs. new monroe shocks all round.new radiator. Not a motorsport but has a m/sport steering wheel, front bumper and M5 rep mirrors. 18 inch alloys with good falken tyres, no spare.towbar, xenon lights. Have just done brand new dual mass flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and release bearing. bonnet has just been painted, will have new grilles when sold, will be sold with wof and rego 305XXX km black leather, steel sun roof, tints by tint a car, just had oil and filter change, aftermarket sony cd stereo with pioneer sub (hidden) and jbl speakers, bluetooth, usb aux in, steering wheel controls. $12,000 o.n.o.

Having built Chev V8s for drag racing in the 80's and 90's I became aware of the adage how much horsepower can you afford. I also learned that on my LS1 that a set of tuned length headers only gave me 11 horsepower over the standard manifolds. Now having looked at both the above headers the M52 is definitely far less constricted and as It allows me to remove the cats as well I suspect there will be an advantage and I can do it for less than $100 (Parts) while a decent tuned length exhaust will set me back closer to $1000. So while I am well aware of the principles involved in long equal length primaries I am on a budget and the E46 is just a stop gap until the M3/335i/911 choice is made. So the question remains has anyone done this?

I would daily this, daily.

Good question! Meanwhile I finally picked up a 2003 copy of the HPI Aussie mag, issue #31, featuring an excelent write up on the UZZ32 active Soarer! Woo, Article can be read here. http://planetsoarer.com/HPIUZZ32/hpiuzz32.htm

The S70 V12 was a BMW M-fettled version of the M70 - which I've always likened to 2x M30's bolted together (some sources say M20, but the V12's cams were chain driven, like the M30). Anyway, here's a good summary of the S70B56 engine, which was only used in the 850CSi (courtesy BMW M-Registry): "How is the S70 engine different from the M70 V12 upon which it is based? When creating the 850CSi's S70 V12 motor, BMW Motorsport began with the standard 24-valve SOHC M70 engine and instituted the following changes: -Increased bore (from 84mm to 86mm) and stroke (from 75mm to 80mm) for a new total displacement of 5,576cc (from 4,988cc) -Lighter pistons -Increased compression (from 8.8:1 to 9.8:1) -More aggressive valve timing for increased high-rpm power -Larger diameter exhaust pipes -Variable rpm limit (6,400 in 1st+2nd, 6,200 in 3rd, 6,100 in 4th. 6,000 in 5th+6th) -Adjustable throttle sensitivity via dual mode (Sport or Komfort) console-mounted switch -Engine oil cooler (European-spec models only) These modifications resulted in an increase in maximum power from 300 hp (DIN) or 296 hp (SAE) at 5,200 rpm to 380 hp (DIN) or 372 hp (SAE) at 5,300 rpm. In addition, maximum torque was increased from 332 lb/ft at 4,100 rpm to 402 lb/ft at 4,000 rpm. This engine can be identified by the "Powered by M" inscription on the central cam cover between the two banks of cylinders." The 627 hp S70/2 used in the McLaren F1 was a 48-valve derivative of the same engine, but heavily modified, with alloy block and 4-valve heads. It had an 11:1 compression ratio, ran a dry sump oil system, and also had VANOS.

Hi guys, Always like the classic appearance of the oldschool BMWs, so I got an e30 since I can't afford the other models and ended up with this thing: I would have taken it out to do a better picture but currently it doesn't run since I'm in the process of doing the traditional new owner maintenance schedule (timing belt, waterpump, etc). It needs a bit of maintenance done in general (paint fixes, seat reupholster, fluids, rust fixes) but the body seems to be relatively clean and accident free. No boot, roof, fender, or pillar rust as far as I can tell though there is a bit on the inner sill where it looks like someone has used a trolley jack and crushed the sill as well as removed the rust protection coating. Anyhow, I aim to restore this as well as I can within my budget and just use it as a weekend car. No hooning or anything like that, gonna keep it in good condition and preserved for future generations! (If anyone is wondering why it is sitting lower than the factory sport suspension, one of the previous owners replaced it with the Bilstein + H&R combo)

A while ago I found a thread on an american site which gave a full step by step teardown and rebuild of the E30 188mm diff, right down to exploded photos and how to rebuild / shim / custom ramp angles on the LS centres. Will have a dig through the saved links folder on my old computer and see if I can find it for you. Gave all the info on preload, backlash, torque specs, etc - was really useful when I messed around with my diff. You will need to shim the new centre to get correct backlash, if this bit is done wrong your diff will grenade itself quicksmart. Pinion preload needs to be spot on otherwise the bearing will fail pretty fast. Bear in mind that you'll need some specialty tools which aren't particularly cheap (30mm impact socket, impact gun, dial indicator, bearing puller), so if this is likely to be a one-off project it will probably be cheaper to have someone like Kayne Barrie do the job for you. You could potentially spend $500-700 just on tools alone if you can't borrow them from someone, versus a few hundred bucks to get a pro to do it for you. Not saying its an impossible branch of black magic, but you do need the right gear and a good understanding of whats happening

Yep, plugged in to the pac-man port using a cable from ebay Lithuania. Took me hours to get DIS working, in the end I obtained a pre-configured image that just worked and passed the API test off the bat.

we tried looking for one here last year, ended up importing one from the uk

The AHK rear wheel steering system on the 850CSi only worked above approx. 60 km/h, turning the rear wheels in the same direction as the fronts, up to a maximum 2.5 degrees depending on the amount of steering input. I could certainly feel it working in my CSi on a few occasions but, as previously mentioned, it really came into good effect when manoeuvering at speed on the European motorways and fast winding roads, which the car was designed for.

It's not turbo. Still a nice car though. It was often at the car shows attached to the race events.

227.5rkw is my guess.

If you just want a M Sport equivalent then Koni StrT shock seem to match M Sport springs, springs that are any firmer will overwhelm the rebound ability of the StrT shocks. I have run Bilsteins and Konis on an e36 and lean towards Koni as the rebound rate can be adjusted. There are in my experience just as big gains to be had by replacing the suspension bushes and uprating they sway bars.

Well of course haha. I wouldn't know how to own anything else o.O

Have to catch up and have a look at it. A B8 would be something very special, but I might loose some body parts if I bring home another bmw.

So this happened on the weekend. My initial thought was that some motherf**ker tried to break into the E28, being that it's the quarter window that's smashed......but it was parked at my brother's place, up a shared driveway, during the day, on Saturday. The conclusion was that it must have been the twat next door flicking a tiny stone (only about 3mm diameter, hole straight through the window!) while weed whacking his driveway. He's probably a really nice guy, but f**k him he smashed my window. I assume. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thread title is a misnomer, as are all the comments about the car being a "manual". C'mon guys, don't you know that the 850CSi only came as a 6-speed manual?! Just 1510 units were produced by BMW M - they were an M8 in all but name. This is a January '94 Euro-spec (EG91) car and is quite possibly the lowest mileage example in existence. It should fetch well over $NZ100k - likely to a European or US buyer.

Awesome Handling Kunt

If you pay for gas and a flight home, i'll bring it down to you, no problem!

Perfect project for you Mike!

Great work Martin. If you are considering a change in vocation.....

More progress. Bank 1 and 2 Upper timing cases off and on, then off and on again to seat them properly. Not before the bank 2 Vanos diaphragm springs arrived though. Bank 2 vanos unit dismantled, cleaned and new orings installed. Vanos units installed, cam timing checked, bank 1 exhaust cam slightly off. Adjusted and then cam timing re-checked, checked again, checked once more, then checked another one time for good luck. Timing now perfect. Vanos solenoids installed New cam bearing oiling rail for bank 2 intake. Old one was munted, most likeley someone leaning on it while working on the engine in the past. Radiator and other bits installed. Cam covers, new spark plugs, earth straps, coils installed. Coolant added and a once over for any loose nuts/bolts and she's ready for firing up. The engine started first pop, although very rattly, and lumpy. This lasted about 30 seconds and then it came right. Ran a vanos test on Bank 1. Success! Let the engine warm up so the air bleeds from the cooling system, then on to installing the rest of the bits Cleared all the fault codes in relation to the air mass sensors being unplugged and took it for a spin around the block. Need to check for leaks over the next few kms. This job took me ages. Going slowly, at least 50 hours. Saved a sh1t tonne in labour however and learned a great deal about how the vanos system works in the S62, which is something I've always been keen on.

Treated my latest family member to a set of H&R/Bilsteins with 18" staggered M-Pars.

some work on the car today oil and filter change , stamped the the service book myself also swapped out the water pump , thermostat and tensioner bearing. had some nexen SU1 tyres fitted the other day , wheel alignment and tyres filled with nitrogen , car feels so much lighter now and gone is the old worn tyre rumble , yaaaa

man those coils look sexy, if i had the coin... GLWS