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Changing from 1st to 2nd quickly and correcting the over steer.

Hey, so I thought I should share a video I made awhile back with you guys here. If you have any questions just ask (Installed in a 2001 e46)

Sorry about the site downtime, have had issue over the last week with servers getting to hot. Have disabled thermal shutdown until a resolve for the cooling issues is found.

Here's is a link to Part 1 http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/43521-m3-evo-32-1997-hackar/ So here's a reminder of what I'm up to Dec 2014 My baby up in the garage on my Christmas present to myself (QuickJack 3500) Motor supported At this point the jobs not done, but thanks to Google and BMW forums thing are moving along. I'm not in a hurry but here's the progress so far. The gearbox is out, Clutch and Flywheel as well. Perfect timing, while I'm at it I'll replace all the gear shifter bushes as well. UUC Stage2 Balanced. Thanks for the advice Josh Can you guess what these are. Big thanks to Rockwell for saving me so close to Christmas Bolt layout and sizes, I spent 3hrs with torch on head, mirror in mouth lying on back towards the rear of the car trying to get the top left bolt out (miss info from net on size) The 14mm at 9 o'clock was pain 5 shops and I couldn't find a wobble head to work. Had to really lower the engine even more. Looking up her skirt Secondary air pump oil leak (gone now) Rod bearings replaced and ARP bolts installed, the old shells had approx 100k on them but looked fine. Dismantled the oil pump, no sign off wear. Don't forget to pack it full with vaseline so it's primed if you don't it may not pick up the oil in the sump. Remove fuel pump fuse or remove coil pack so the car won't fire/start. Starting the car for the first time was the most terrifying part, turn the car over for 5-7 seconds approx 6-10 times and breath again when you see the oil pressure get to a safe level.(remembering I have an oil pressure gauge installed) Lower chain tensioner wear, decided while it's open I'll replace it. while waiting for the new part to arrive. I grabbed front and rear reinforcement plate kits I had and welded them in. Below the old and the new, as well as the tool I made for removing and installing the clip shown. A piece of flat bar, shaped as you see to remove, slotted on top to install second picture down. On the net the DIYs say that the front cover has to be removed. I did mine from underneath, it is tight up there. Here's the trick the metal springs/lever is actually two levers separate them and have a look. Put it back together, but. Leave the low one out 60% but so it's still under the other. Install the bracket on the pin and manipulate/slide the upper lever into place. Once the upper lever is in place you just have to push the second lever up and it's guided into place by the first lever............... The will make sense I promise Feb 2015 Dual pickup fuel pumps, along the lines of the Pumpkin setup. This pump sit in the passenger side tank with the engine return feeding into the filter. This pump then feeds fuel to the engine pickup pump sump. Finished product, does it work as of 2017 I haven't had a chance to see. Just some notes after multiple attempts at trying to get the fuel gauge to work constantly I gave up. It works most of the time, but now I also use the trip meter as a back up. Brought a 20 ton press New Ball joints for my front control arm, they deserve them after 170km Nov 2015 235 x 40 x 17 R888 (god I love the smell of new rubber) Jan 2016 Made myself a String Alignment Box, why New Tie Rods Digital C/C Gauge w AccuLevel™ and Quick Set™ LW Adapter Bottom line ..... if I had a pit it would be great, my car is to low for me to adjust the toe without jacking. Easier just to take it to an Alignment shop. Jun 2016 After my weak performances at Hampton Downs in Jan & Feb driver training, I gave up trying to diagnose the problem. Booked into Gavin's he's the man, he did his magic and now we've cracked the 200 (ye baby) 2017 update got a chance to get back on HD now because of conditions no lap records were set but, I ran out of 3rd gear leading up to the big sweeper and changed into 4th only a quarter of the way up the hill on the front straight. But interestingly still only managed 193km at end of the front straight taken from GPS (speedo read 200km) Package from Ground Control, upgraded to adjustable Race inserts and a pair of adjustable rear control arms. Now you know why, both the front and rear passenger side shocks were leaking During the changeover I found this a small crack, I believe it is from me adjusting the camber and with the camber plate sitting on that weld it gave way. I've ground down the weld, but I wasn't allowed to do the repair welding as the expert didn't trust me. I found my old tower reinforcement plates and modified them to allow for full camber adjustment. Why didnt do this previously I don't know Aug 2017 RallyRoad front strut bar and rear end Black Powerflex bushes. RallyRoad strut bar installed not the 5 min job I thought. Needed to order the special nuts and had to trim them as they sat proud. (sorry the part # for the nuts is missing forum change platforms and lost most of my writeups) Rear end removed, time to install the Powerflex Black Bushes 9 Tried the drilling out.............smelly and messy Went back to the 20 ton press, gave up the first time because of some of the fun angles and packing I tried seemed dangerous. Second time was just as scary, I hid round the corner a few times. When fitting the GC adjustable control arms, I needed to adjust both the lower bush and the control arm opening so it didn't bind. Replaced my boot loom, don't remember what I had in the write up sorry. Thanks to Dave (M3AN) as I said to you didn't need to provide me with a new loom but it is appreciated. Sep 2016 I know it's not Christmas or did it just come early. But these were listed on Trademe for the second time this time I had to have them. Recaro CS Sportsters full leather, heat........................ Weight saving only 12kgs total As these are not standard BMW E36 M3 seats here in NZ you need to get any modification Certified, including my rear adjustable control arms. The first certifier I went to was a total num nuts. His requirements, required me sending numerous emails to recaro germany, spending days fabbing up slider releases (which I got to work) But I was still 15mm short of exist distance on the drivers side and germany wasn't helping with the other request removal of airbags. In the end I rang Wellington spoke to LVVTA, then went to another certifier all the above was a waste of time and stress. If it doesn't sound right just call Wellington it's worth it. Just for the record no 95% of aftermarket seat mounts/sliders are not certified, which means you cannot mount your safety belts to them. All modifications Certified, I got my little piece of paper and cert plaque riveted in my engine bay Below give you an idea of what's required, you will need to go to LVV site download the H template and instructions to work out your individual seat belt receiver location and height. Lower/Upper Plates were from Auckland Seat Belts, in Glenfield. They sell them as a kit. Needed a spacer H points marked Airbag occupancy light removal: no dash light, air bags are always active. March 2017 During regular maintenance back 2016, I came across some oil in my Plenum. So for Christmas I got a ECS oil catch can So decided to remove the plenum, check the throttle butterflies and install the ECS oil catch. (You may also notice the Power pulleys from ECS as well, but they manufactured for TMS which don't fit Euros. Well the power steering does and is now fitted.) On inspection 1-2-3 were dirty but 4-5-6 butterflies were a real mess. Throttle body cleaner and toothbrush to the rescue. The vanish in 4-5-6 was impossible to remove. Location of catch can I cleaned the IRV and oil separator, replacing the hose # 5 as it was very mushy. As you can see I have left the OS in place and have just added the catch can inline. Routing the hoses was fun setting the hose clips, so they didn't rub or impede putting the plenum back on took a couple of tries. This was a resolute of plastic fatigue not a hose clip for a coolant hose on the back of the plenum and me having too much spinach. Many thanks to Aronn for sending up his spare. Means I'm driving my baby 7 days early. Installed, will update after a few Kms, late April update I have not removed the lower canister, but after approx 700ks and a driver training day there is no sign of oil on the dipstick. At the last monthly coffee meet, I mentioned to the guys that even though I loved the sound of my car. I was driving like a nanny because it drew to much attention. Here's my first attempt, start with the tail pipe got some silencer packing cut it to fit the inside made a cage and slipped it in. I couldn't get the cage to fold nicely around the ends so just cut out a panel and fitted it in. Result: did take the edge of the exhaust tone. UPDATE..... April 2017 driver training, blow the cage and packing out of the tail pipe Next idea, now I know that Scorpion exhausts are guaranteed for life but mines dated 23-99 so I thought maybe the silencer/sound packing had maybe disintegrated. I did some research ordered 3 x Acousta-Fil Boa bags from GB @ $18 each NZ, $100 with delivery.(once again NZ company did themselves out of a sale $69 a bag) A bag of 35mm stainless steel plugs and borrowed a mini camera. Here's where I'm going in I couldn't believe how much packing I got out, took a couple of hours. I had to make up some hook tools. So much for the silencer packing being disintegrated Used all three bags, inserted the plug with some high temperature silicone. June Was looking at CAE & RTD shifters online a month ago. Then blow me down a RTD was put up for sale on here... Couldn't help myself. Spent some time trying to contact the manufacturer. So I could buy the RTD DSSR ,spoke with John he recommended just going with UUC. Installing was a PITA only because I know better than most (right) and installed both pieces with the exhaust and drive shaft still in place. It's tight under there and the tolerances are also amazing. I needed to remove the gear selector input shaft joint and sand the bush slightly to get fit the DSSR to fit. Reinstalled the DSSR, then spent a couple of hours trying to get the DSSR and RTD lower arm to match up for the connecting pin I could get it within 1.5mm I ended up making a temp pin approx 0.5 smaller with the leading edge chamfered. Got it back together went for a drive but got the first base location wrong couldn't get into 2,4,6th. The bolt on the hazard light end of the base only just catches the base plate. The OEM knob sits slightly skewed to the left. Time for a drive up around the bays, interesting totally different from standard very precise you need to shift quickly when I shifted at a leisurely pace I'd get lost Drivers training in 2 weeks need to work on the muscle memory till then Driver training after a dozen emergency braking exercises I once again lost 2nd, 4th and 6th gear. On inspection I cannot tell if the units base has moved. I'm guessing as the fixing locations are maxed out, once things hot up it moves outside of useable tolerance. July Keeping to my philosophy of there must be an easier way............... e.g. not removing exhaust, driveshaft etc to remove shifter Tools I adapted to reach nuts from inside the cabin. With the base in place. Marks on tunnel not centred misaligned offset to the left I forgot to take photos, one day. So the plan was as above extend both top slots and angle them slightly to centre base, just slotted them as above. Didn't extend the sides but extended the rear nose (now a closed in slot) and have had washers and nut bases welded together to reinforce the tunnel sheet metal. Upsized the nuts and bolts to from 6mm to 8mm. Also made reassembly from inside the cabin a breeze. I have only cruised around Devo, but changing gear, finding gears is much easier. But won't know if the reason I did this works till some spirited driving is done. (see update below) Dec 2017 Coolant flush and new thermostat. 29th Dec driver training. Good stuff first, RTD shifter is superb. I love it . As always 1st session was just a shake down, second session pushed a little harder 1.19:5 but then sad to say only lasted 1/4 of the 3rd session before this happened Damaged my radiator, rad shroud, fan and oil cooler lines. Waiting now on parts These arrived today Vibra-Technics BMW362MX Removed Poly Engine mounts Well a picture or two are worth a thousand words: No heat shield to speak of (top right), the poor old passengers side bolt & plate have moved under the strain. New parts in waiting, over the top heat shield for drivers side engine mount. Think I'm going to have to strap it in place. Feb 2018 Installed finally, engine mounts, uprated heat shield drivers side, oil cooler pipes(4wk wait) radiator including mounts, vent pipe, fan and shroud. As a precaution after the failure of the engine mounts, I loosened the gearbox cross member and gearbox mounts and re-adjusted them. May New Crankshaft sensor August Driver training on Sat 11th at Hampton Downs was existing to say the least. New Best Lap 1.17.65 On the next lap this happened at the turn in of Turn 4, poor RacingBrake.com couldn't handle it. The RacingBrake front rotor exploded. So after contacting RacingBrake.com again, I received no reassurances from RB as to the quality of their product. Hell, they didn't even reply to my requested for an invoice for Oil and Dust seal kits so I could recondition my calipers. October 2018 So the quest began, as my existing calipers and brackets fit my wheels. The need to buy a full new front BBK wasn't a requirement, I only needed to decide on the rotor size (existing 328x28) and buy new hats. I've decided to go with APRacing CP3580-2900, 330x28. As always buying from oversea looked good, but shipping, gst and the exchange rate bumped the price up considerably. So I approached Aaron from Race Brakes NZ and the prices was competitive. ( update ) After receiving the hats, I received a VAT refund. So if you minus VAT of the rotor price/costs. Importing would have cheaper. The hats were going to be a one off and there would be a min of 6 weeks wait if I was lucky. So I contacted AP in Britain, they recommended BG Developments in the UK who said they should be shipped in 2-3 weeks. (Took 3 1/2 wks) I wanted my car back on the road, so even though it was more expensive, I put time over cost. . Old Rotor and hat ........6.4 Kgs (a side) AP Rotor and hat .........6.7 Kgs Also replaced the front brake lines. Reconditioning my front calipers myself didn't work out 1 piston on the passenger side leaked, 2 on the drivers side. Advanced Seals and SVS in Albany are making up a new full set of Dust and Pressure seals. Nov 2018 I installed both sets of seals only to find that the dust seals lip was to thick so I couldn't insert the pistons. All sorted. Full fluid change, diff, gearbox and engine. Feb 2019 Replaced my twin coby SLC10 with SLC16 approx 6 decibels quieter. March Tried and failed to de-stress my front rotors at 11.00pm on the Northern motorway doing a dozen 100kmh to 50kmh hard braking trying to get the rotors to 435F or 225C De-stressed my front rotors at Pukie on the 9th, Purple steering rack installed (thanks Dave M3an) New PS Reservoir, (looking forward to putting it in ) as I'm replacing my rear SS brake lines decided to renew the caliper bush guides as well. Changing my silver pedal set to black June Driver Training Hampton Downs, the new rack was nice it was also nice to complete just about a full day. Fuel starvation raised it head again during the last session (Turn 1 & 2) approx 20 litres still left in the tank. New time 1.17.165 July Driver Training Hampton Downs, only change replaced my front pads Hawk DTC 70 with DTC 60 New time 1.17.01 (I'm back ) August 2019 Custom J Hook Machined Reyland Motorsport 7.2kg each, E36 hats but E46 diameter. September 2019 A set of Aluminium doors (Thanks to M3an for the heads up) Aluminium Door 13.3kgs with Window regulator attached. New Fuel flap, clips and fasteners. Turtle Laboratories door card repair brackets Oct 28 As you can see from the timeline there has been some delays. I started on the passengers door swapping over the internals, adjusted the door alignment and window. Tried to install the weather strip clamps, first problem steel doors are 2mm thick, Alloy doors 3mm. Thanks to M3an, Dave used his vin in Realoem and found an extra part number. During this time I start dismantling the Driver door only to find, when my drivers door window was replaced the repairer had rounded the two countersunk screws that hold the glass to the rear track slide. The the door handle chassis had broken in the usual places and the door handle cover had been glued in place.......... So a second lot of parts were required and received. Missing from the photo is the new drivers side door handle. As for re-installing everything: I needed extra shims for the hinges, I found that because of the extra thickness of the alloy panels, I had to file down the door handle pin body location so the clip would slid onto the pin. Also the door handle cover top claws needed a light file to widen the opening. Below Steel v Alloy door clamp (Part # 51418187492) Nov So I received some advice about installing the door bump strips. Unlike steel doors where you just line the clips with the holes and whack them with the ball of your palm, with alloy doors you need to support the skin from the inside (so you don't install the door cards) and of course the skin is slightly thicker than steel. Well what I thought would be a 15min job took a bit longeeeeer. She who must be obeyed was not impressed. As we struggled with the last clip on each end of the doors. I tried supporting, but the internal frame shape...., grabbing them with pliers and melting a hole, threading a wire and pulling, removing the condom to no avail. Here's how I got it to fitted, install the green plug and also install the condoms and white clips in the holes at each end of the doors. Let's revise this, worked on one door the other had popped out overnight. What a Btch, broke 4 new clips had to use 1 of my old ones on the drive side below the door handle it was a PITA. But finally got it.(Famous last words) Install the rest of the clips onto the Bump Strip as normal. Get your helper with the hole support, ( I used a 13mm socket on a 200mm extension). Start from the middle and work your way out to the ends, using the ball of your palm. Dec 2019 Christmas Present (couple of days late) Porsche 996 Rear Calipers off a 2001 Porsche Carrera 911 Jan Sanded 200 and 400 grit then Masked Finished with VHT caliper paint, Gloss Black and Gloss Clear 3 coats of each Helpful Hints, Painting, don't get to excited/heavy with the last coat. I did Black x3 the same for Clear coats. Have some clear coat runs. I replace the piston seals after painting, as it turned out my masking was good. So doing the change pre-painting would have been more relaxing. I did bake them in the BBQ for an hour at 90-100c Make a jig as in the photo this allows one side to full eject but still hold pressure, flip it over and it holds your loose pistons in place and rejects the other side. Remove jig pistons pull out by hand. I found it easier to leave the dust boots in place, they pop off when using the jig. Jig 25mm thick x127 long x 50mm. Recesses 4mm and 6mm Update: Porsche 996 rear brakes Jan 18 2019 Had drivers training on Saturday at Hampton Downs, giving the new rear calipers a good shake down. Average time was down 2sec. Data showed braking forces peaked at -1.06g which matched earlier visits. My 888s felt very slippery, they have passed their best and I was a bit cautious, braking earlier for the corners. (Data shows everything) Not sure the caliper colour or the decal will ever be the same The J hooks were brutal, brake dust like I haven't seen before. She who must be obeyed is not happy with the state of the driveway. After washing the rims. Had a slight lip on the top of the ( D737-7606) pads, it may change once the paint and clear coat wear off the mounting pins. The 996 caliper, pad setup makes it a breeze changing pads in and out. Lov it. April 11 2020 I did a search of my garage and found 2 sets of Bushes for the pedal supporting bracket. On inspection of my clutch and brake pedals, only the brake pedal had any play (sideways movement) The removal of the pedal arms is well covered on the net, so we'll skip that. I removed the clutch pedal and installed the bronze bushes, then removed the brake pedal. Here's what I found So I have to make a Brake master cylinder and pin connection, brake switch trigger bracket bush. Now known as a BMC PC BSTB bush. I started with a 35mm length of 13mm OD, 11mm ID copper pipe, the pin is 10mm OD. The brake arm hole is approx 11mm. I started by cutting along the length of pipe with a hacksaw then compressing it in a vice, followed by another run though with the hacksaw blade and compressing it again in the vice. This made the outside diameter very close to a perfect fit, I touch-up the outside with sand paper to get it perfect. I then cut the pipe to 15mm in length and tapped into place with a dead hammer I then run a 10mm drill bit down through the inside of the bush (pipe), it was a perfect fit for the connection pin I fitted a M10 nylon washer to each end of my bush Lubed the bush with anti-seize Installed Delrin bushes. Reinstalled the brake pedal, no play in either pedal. Fitted new black pedal set. All's good in my world so far Old/new CD43

switch to 5w 30

All good, jamez has been spraying water on it instead, seems legit.

Hey mate how wide is it. Need to re do the poker table, and this has so much Miami vice pimp it would be awesome.

Would rather see the site vanish for a wee bit than risk you guys nuking your gear! Lol, have worked in small server rooms in the past with IT guys running in carrying multiple $20 fans from the Warehouse in desperation. Then going into utter panic mode when the current draw from the fans is enough to trip the RCD on the wall outlet. Schadenfreude ftw!!

Got it in. Was an absolute mission to wrestle it on, now I know why BMW prefers plastic pipes - the flexibility makes them much easier to install. The o-ring I bought was too thick and made it impossible to get the pipe on. Pretty ridiculous that BMS can't include an o-ring with it... I used 1 layer of insulation tape around the throttle body instead, 2 layers of tape wouldn't even fit. The fitment on the BMS pipe is so tight though, even with no seal I can't see much, if any, air seeping out. Seems air tight, worked well on my drive to work. I'll log the boost levels when I have time to thrash it just to make sure.

BUMP !!! on TM everyone needs to own a V10 at least once in their life , http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1022326194.htm

Hey Kulgan I have seen the meet/cruise and I was very keen to come along. However I have just found out that 21st is also the day that the first two NZ RWB Porsches are revealed at Manfield so now I can't decide where to go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're not alone. I've seen corporate data centres with portable industrial fans in them to try and keep temps down.

Thanks. Stencils and tyre paint. It drys quite hard so you can chip it if you're not careful. If you don't daily your car it stays fine. I'm thinking about taking it off, not sure if I like it

The fault code was for the throttle potentiometers implausible signal from memory... what happened??

Ahmed, did you want to buy mine for $130 (paid $147), still in packaging. I presume it would be the same part for the wagon? I unexpectedly have to leave the country for a little while so won't be able to replace it anyway nor would there be a point. I'm thinking of just getting it when I return.

UPDATES: Thanks for the great feedback so far guys - just thought I'd give you all an update on where things are at, especially with 4andR at the end of this week! I wanted to reveal the colour I've decided to wrap the car - I went through many colour choices in my head and numerous discussions with the gf, but in the end my heart kept going back to this "Battleship grey" by Avery Dennison. The girlfriend wasn't a fan of it at the time, but she's since admitted to me that she likes the colour now Wrapping a car was a huuuuuuge undertaking, especially when neither of us had any prior experience, there were certainly many frustrating moments, but we just had to keep reminding ourselves that this was a learning experience, and that it would all be worth it in the end. Since finishing the wrapping for the car, I can now say I'd definitely do it again, it's not too bad once you get the hang of how the material behaves, and what kind of prep work you need to do first. Next, I wanted to add something to the front end of the car, some more aero, to make things look more aggressive. So two weekends ago, I was lucky enough to have help from two new friends help me build a functional, aggressive, custom front splitter for the bumper. The splitter is made from a plywood base, then covered with fibreglass. It is hard-mounted to the chassis. I have to give a MASSIVE thank you to Daniel for designing the splitter for me, and Bradley for allowing us to use his fibreglassing material and facilities. Not only that, also dedicating an entire day with me to starting and finishing the splitter in a day! A month ago, I had never met either of these two people before. Both of these guys had left the occasional comment on my photography work, expressing a fair amount of interest and following my build. Over a few chats over the internet, we managed to get all 3 of us together, as car enthusiasts to build something for the car. Through this, I can now call both of these guys good friends of mine. The fact that they had never met me, or knew who I really was, and were just so willing to lend a hand and dedicate their efforts to me and the build is unbelievable. It's moments like these that make me want to continue building a car community like this, where people can connect just through their shared love for cars. The following week was a tough one, fitment with tyres revealed I had not cut the original factory guards high enough, and the wheels were approximating with the factory guards before reaching intended ride height. So the week was spent re-measuring, and re-cutting the guards, followed by re-welding them. It was tough, but we managed to get it done in time. After much tinkering, we finally had the car sitting on the ground. Be warned, the following images of fitment, will probably make many purists on here cringe and criticize. Just remember, this is a show car. This car is the embodiment of a vision I had in my head, that I wanted to produce and show the world. So yes, I know it's not going to be a very 'functional' BMW. With that said ... here you go Just a few final things to work out for the final fitment and looks for the show, and she'll be ready to roll. In the meantime, we're working hard to finish up t he girlfriends 280zx project for the show too. Thanks for reading the update, here's a little bonus pic of the girlfriend's Work wheels getting some tyres thrown on PS. Hope some of you guys are going to 4 and Rotary show! Would be cool to meet some of you Peace

Andy - it won't be the pump. Some, not all of the series E30's suffer this on R/H corners once the fuel gets down to 1/2 - 2/3's of a tank. No ryme nor reason as to which car does/doesn't suffer this. It almost seems like a cavitation issue - I have beaten down a slight depression in the tank at the bottom of the swirl pot - improved the issue somewhat. Pressure & flow is perfect. I need to run a full tank to make weight so it has been a problem in races. That said, it is on practice days - as was last Friday week at Taupo. No wheel spin - you aint driving it hard enough

Changed the eeprom .bin for the lying-bastard stock E39 temp gauge. Now shows something like what the engine temps actually are, instead of being about as useful as those blue and red light things on newer cars. Can share info soon, for others interested - found stuff on some US sites etc, and deciphered the info from the bollocks.

No such thing as more grip than you need. If the tyres aren't on the verge of letting go, enter the corner faster.

so during the week finished getting the car ready for the track. As per my list in my last post, made a door car from some 4mm particle board lying around, will take it back off at some stage and paint it red so its not so garish. Moved seat more towards middle of the car, also added some washers between the bolt/nut and the seat to make the anchor a bit bigger. And fitted a set of Toyo R888s as recommended by everyone here, found two auctions with some good sizes, so running staggered setup, 205 on the front and 225 on the back. Havent got round to putting the M50 manifold on yet. one day... Some of you will know i took it on its first real play date today to iron out some bugs, and try to get some return on my investment in the car! Up at sparrows fart and off to Manfeild for a Playday on Track. Signed up for the slow group. New Car, and never driven at Manfeild before, im not about to get big headed about it. After very first session driving pretty sedately and learning how the car moved etc i was about the upper side of middle. The lower side included a 1200cc (if that) Nissan March and one of the Diahatsu things off mighty car mods, the competition wasnt exactly tough, but awesome to see those guys out there having a go!! Second session started to put the hammer down some more, and by the third i was driving it hard like anyone would. Forth session, noticed a wee bit of fuel surge, by this time i had chewed through about 2/3rds of a tank. Instantly recognised the feel and backed off, kept driving it though, just full hammer down on anything that wasnt a right hand corner! Pulled in, and drove to the servo nearby, those that havent been there Gull are pretty well on site which is usefull, like at Hampton. Will need to research on how to set up a surge tank system, or look at my options here, as running out of fuel isnt a good look. Fifth and Six sessions i decided to drive it hell for leather and try and sort of try and over cook it a bit so i could learn where the limit was. I couldnt find it. The car has more grip and handling than is required. Not to say i told you so to anyone, but an LSD is not required for this car. the whole time not even one hint of wheel spin under power. admittedley, the R888s were well heated by the time i was driving the car hard, but yeh. The suspension setup is nothing flash. Jamex sedan/coupe springs all round, rebuilt Bilstein shocks in the front, and OEM rear shocks (Billys in the back were far too hard in my road testing) At this point, should have moved up to the medium grade, but various other vehciles in that grade were dead or sick by this point, the medium seemed to virtually dry up, so was only slow and fast and exotics. no way near comparible to the fast ones. Was told by various people through out the day that it was a very quick car from what they were seeing, and one guy at the end said i was by far the quickest in the group. The top end of this group was an E55 AMG (pulled off early in the day) and some various Australian and American Muscle, which were quicker in first half of straights, but the little ol' compact can hold a lot more speed in the corners, and brake much much later. Throughout the day, the brakes were reliable, but could and should be better. Was braking at the 120m mark for most corners, any more and i messed up the corner and/or the ABS would let me know its there. and the corners after the two straights more like the 150m mark or maybe a bit more. I dont think the rear brakes are doing much. they are the original compact ones, and like the body, have been sitting for 5 years or so, so not working correctly. still some rust marks on the rear disks where the pads are not contacting the disk, all after a day of beating on them. So will have them rebuilt, and will fit a set of race brakenpads front and back, not sure where to buy them from. Need Compact rear, may be same as E30?? and 328i front. will see how they go, can always look at spending a bit of dough on the brakes to get them right. This initial testing phase and improvements here must also come under my budget, i still have a fair amount of room to play before i hit the $2k mark which as above promised i must not go over ... So Things for the to do list now: M50 Manifold swap still Surge Tank or similar system for fuel. Improve brake performace. All three before Pukekohe in 2 weeks time If anyone is keen for the Pukekohe open day on the 5th Feburary there is a group of us going, mostly E36 some E30s some other stuff.

Fixed that for ya.

All my pleasures are perfectly innocent. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

Removed the engine loom from the car. Test fitted COP. Started removing the fuel rail, but I haven't figured out how to get the injectors out yet (Pull really hard?), I have removed the cables and clips.

Bought a dead m50 off Andy. Finished de looming it today. The crank timing wheel off the m50 had the wrong belt pattern, so I've sorted one off an m20 and a crank position sensor bracket as well. I can reuse the existing HT leads for coil near plug as they plug straight onto the coils. I've also been messing around with the interior a bit, so it's a mess (testing different seats and doing wiring). And a picture of the car, because I haven't really posted many of them

Here's a complete list of what was done and what was learned on this project. Credit goes to the installer and tuner who with permission I'll post their details later. Vendor Details: Installer: Garry - Andrew Hollywood Motors Napier. Garry got everything sorted really quickly and did a really good job (total 40 hours to do everything). There were a few minor issues with things not fitting as expected or gaskets etc which were resolved quickly. Garry's familiarity with the E36 certainly made the conversion much simpler than having attempting it myself - thanks Garry. Tuner: Graham Neale - WRC Developments Napier. Graham did a very nice job, was very professional and manage to fit me into his very busy schedule at relatively short notice - thanks Graham. Basic Stuff: Me (cold air intake, engine loom modifications, ECU fitting, car electrics, electric fans) This project was to take E36 325i Motorsport Coupe and replace the old tired engine with something that still looks like the factory original but goes a lot better. Requirements: Everything must be bolt-up and look BMW factory standard albeit not original to this car. Must still look like a 325i engine and running gear. Parts Required: M50B25NV Engine Keep the M50NV manifold + injectors M54B30 donor crank rods and pistons Manual Conversion M50B32 6-Speed Box NZAD D1 Racing Clutch Kit + Lightened Flywheel 6.5kg (Trademe) Pedal box + master cylinder Slave Cylinder + other clutch bits. S50B32 Headers S50B32 Exhaust ZF Driveshaft Front Section (needs to be shortened for the 6-speed). Could not use a complete M3 driveshaft due to the diff flange being different. S50US Cams - used new Shrick 252/244 cams (Turner Motorsport) M52B28 Donor Engine for: Vanos Unit Harmonic Balancer Oil Filter Housing Vanos Oil Line Cam Cover Plastic Engine Covers Knock Sensors M50TUB25 Wiring Loom got mine from an auto so deleted all auto wiring + the MAF wiring from the loom. Link G4+ Plugin ECU New Fuel Pump New Fuel Filter Gaskets and Seal etc. M50TUB25 Camshaft Hall Effect Sensor Link IAT sensor Greenfilter POD filter + Cold Air Intake mod (custom by me). 76mm Inlet tubing to POD filter. Ally sheet + Eurothane Adhesive Surprises: The M50 Power Steering Pump does not bolt up to the M52 Oil Filter Housing and had to machine 15mm off one leg to make it fit. The M52 camshaft sensor was VR - expecting hall effect. Make sure you have the correct front half of the driveshaft before you shorten it (originally supplied the wrong one in the manual conversion kit and shortened it without noticing - duh!!). Installation: I purchased the engine already reconditioned and stroked to 3L with approx 3500k's on it. It was 3L M50NVstroker at that time with the M50NV head and cams. I decided I wanted the S50US cams + Vanos to get better bottom end torque + rev ok. I purchased new Shrick Cams from Turner Motorsport. These bolted striaght in with no issues. Had to use the M50NV cam trays and lifters. The M52 vanos was installed with no modification required to the head. I'd read some relief with a dremmel was required but maybe this is for the M50 vanos - did not need tomodify at all. The M52 oil filter housing was installed + oil line to the vanos. The NZAD D1 Racing flywheel and clutch was installed. The gearbox was connected to the engine. The wiring loom was installed. The engine and gearbox was installed in the car. Everything bolted straight up with no issues. The second driveshaft was measured and sent out to be shortened. There was a problem with the Camshaft sensor as initially the VR sensor was installed - this has the wrong plug to connect to the M50TUB25 loom - should have been the give-away here... Later the correct sensor was sourced and installed. The front section of the driveshaft was installed. The exhaust was installed. All done, ready to start. No modifications were required to fit the engine, gearbox or exhaust to the standard mountings. Problems: Engine would not crank. Had to locate the K1 start solenoid for the auto-trans start inhibit. On NZ RH drive cars this is located on the drivers side near the steering column - an orange relay on top of a connector block under the dash.. The relay was removed and the black/yellow wires cut off the relay holder. These were linked with a solder join + heatshrink. Now the engine cranks. Initially there was no camshaft pulses going to the ECU. The M52 VR sensor had been installed + a linking connector made to try to get it to work. This was a no-go and required a hall effect sensor (which has the correct plug so no adapter required). Leson here - the connectors don't mate then it's probably the wrong sensor... Camshaft timing sorted. Initially the M50NV harmonic balancer was used. This puts the crankshaft timing notch 120' out from the M50TUB25. The M52 is the same as the M50TUB so the harmonic balancer was swapped from the M52 donor engine. Now all the timing was good. Still would not start. Turned out to be no fuel due to the in/out being accidentally swapped - only mistake the installer made and not unreasonable given the two pipes are side by side... With the fuel problem sorted it started no problem. The Vanos Solenoid did not work - was faulty so replaced with one that worked. Tuning: The MAF was deleted so the Link ECU was tuned using only MAP, TPS and IAT. Dyno tuning was required due to the significantly different configuration to the base map supplied in the ECU. The fuel map was way out and far too lean initially. Once tuned it's really smooth and all surging has gone. There's very good transiet throttle response too. Learnings: Use S50 injectors as M50 are too small. Everything else worked out pretty well. Unplanned Costs: A few extra costs due to machining the Power Steering Pump and having to shorten the driveshaft + extra costs from missing the first dyno run due to no-start problems. Make sure it runs before sending it for tuning!!! I didn't try to start it initially as Link ECU's need to be unlocked before they will run. I didn't have a laptop to do this so left it to the tuner assuming everything was ready to go. All in all was a pretty good project with no major problems and no catastrophic mechanical failures along the way. Now to enjoy the new lease of life on the car.

As a lad from Bolton once told me: BWFC Beer Women Football Cars God I miss proper football.

You were telling me like 3 days ago how much you think I should put cats in my e30 exhaust so it doesn't smell. I sense sarcasm.