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Anyone want to buy a 2002 E46 320d wagon? Meticulously maintained.

Hi guys, Unfortunately the for sale section is going to the dogs again as far as adherence to the basic rules. As of today onwards the moderators will be removing any thread that doesn't have the basic requirements for a for sale thread without warning. This applies to everyone including us mods/admins. If you find your thread gone in the for sale section, this will be why. I have updated the rules in the For Sale section here http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/20961-please-read-before-posting-an-item-for-sale/

I was drifting down there in the 70's in a '39 Ford V8 coupe & my mate had a Willys 4 door that we always tried to roll but we couldn't

Would you rather a young lady with lots of milage or an older bird with low milage?

my $0.02 aligns pretty tidly with Nick G's, above. you'll pay the premium for the 50kms car, and although you avoid the cost of the 100kms service in 3-4 years at 15k per year, after 3-4 years your car is now approaching 100k's and everyone knows it's going to need a big service... so now your premium has vanished, you've compounded higher depreciation, and you field just as much loss as you'd have done buying the 110km car (at a lower price) that's had the big service. there's no 'right' answer, really. I can recommend that if you're really down to the $2-3k in worrying between case a and case b over 2-3 years, you might consider simply not buying either car. IME life's not like that (accountancy or actuarial tables), and predictions don't materialise in full benefit. eg despite your best plan, you get a girlfriend in another town and spend 2.5 years commuting on weekends, adding 10k kms to your projected use; or your car gets stolen; or suddenly you have a company car; or arrive at a family and have to sell that spiffy coupe - and subsequently take the loss. The observation I'll make, that I would place the greatest value in: they're not investments, they're liabilities. Sure, we love cars - that's why we're here on this forum. And naturally, we plan a little and try and minimise the downsides. I'm a planner, though I temper this with the addage "if you play, you pay". The 2-4 year case may work out well for you; if it costs you an extra few grand, hopefully you get the benefits of experiences/stories for the grand kids or retirement home! #8 ) Hopefully this alternate perspective is useful. Cheers!

damn a manual 330ti motorsport would be cool, wouldnt it?

c'mon you guys, take the hint. Ray makes these to order! I love the epic fail of this auction - forget the Olaf 'rules of how to win at TradeMe'. Prospective buyer: "Do you have any more photo's? (never mind the unnecessary apostrophe - this guy wants to see more skin before he gets into bed) Vendor GOLD answer: a few but they are basically the same. A 325ti is a 325ti (that's right, I'm too lazy to actually help the sale, and I don't care if I'm sounding a little bit evasive/dodgy!) let's extrapolate that. "oh, I need some oil. Hmmm - well, oil is oil, here's some 30/40 from 1970". "what's that mister garage, I need some brake pads? Sure, brakes are brakes". "oh, you want pictures to get a better idea of condition? who cares about condition, you'll buy this like a blind man. come to Bruce's car sales, my cars are just cars as you'd expect". I won't go on...

Autosure and their assessors ( who I know personally) are very aware of what is going on with these and if caught your warranty is void PS: Insurance fraud either by the repairer or owner of the car will have personal repercussions with insurance companies for the rest of your life. They have a register I'm told

Assuming condition is acceptable and comparable, I'd buy the newest car possible. Unless the km differential is substantial (which your aren't), the newer car should represent better value and better return come on-sell time. Though as noted - there is no right answer. Go with what feels the best option to you - and enjoy!

I do 20-25km per year, not huge, but that is 100km in 4 years. Any premium I paid for 'low km' is melted away completely when you come to resell. I would rather have that money for maintenance. (Also have high KM cars in the past, I am not so scared of it. 350km e30, 250km e36, 140km e46, 110km 2010 S3)

Acquired and fitted a genuine mtech 1 rear spoiler. Ahh Inlove all over again

My e28 is soon to be getting a M30B35. As most of you will have seen, I got a donor e34 with a good M30 and manual gearbox that's done 170,000 kms which will be going in. Engine, gearbox etc came out of the e34 over the weekend. Have been collecting parts over the last couple of weeks including Mtech rear spoiler, arches, and parts to repair some damage on the front from getting hit (working with the guy's insurance to sort it). Also just installed AP springs about a week ago. The car as it is now: Some of the damage: I'm pretty rubbish at build threads but I'll do my best to update as I go for those interested. Hoping to have the swap done by the end of April.

don't give up CJ, talk to Ray! He'll build you one to order, or bring your own tired 316Ti along and blammo, 325/330Ti!

Vehicle information VIN long WBAAT320X0FR50659 Type code AT32 Type 325TI (EUR) Dev. series E46 (5) Line 3 Body type COMP Steering RL Door count 3 Engine M54 Cubical capacity 2.50 Power 141 Transmision HECK Gearbox MECH Colour TOPASBLAU METALLIC (364) Upholstery STANDARDLEDER/SCHWARZ (N6SW) Prod. date 2001-08-28 Order options No. Description 168 EU2 EXHAUST EMISSIONS NORM 249 MULTI-FUNCTION FOR STEERING WHEEL 262 HEAD AIRBAG 290 LT/ALY WHEELS STAR SPOKE 44 302 ALARM SYSTEM 315 REAR WINDSCREEN WIPER 431 INTERIOR RR VW MIRROR W AUT ANTI-D 438 WOOD TRIM 481 SPORT SEATS F DRIVER/FRONT PASSENGER 495 3. HEADREST REAR CENTRE 508 PARK DISTANCE CONTROL (PDC) 534 AUTOMATIC AIR CONDITIONING 548 SPEEDOMETER WITH KILOMETER READING 650 CD PLAYER 661 RADIO BMW BUSINESS 818 MAIN BATTERY SWITCH 825 RADIO CONTROL OCEANIA 850 ADD FUEL TANK FILLING FOR EXPORT 864 OVERSEAS/DEALER DIRECTORY 880 ENGLISH / ON-BOARD DOCUMENTATION 925 SHIPPING PROTECTION PACKAGE 930 CONSIDERATION OF PRICE DEPENDENCY Series options No. Description 226 SPORTS SUSPENSION SETTINGS 255 SPORTS LEATHER STEERING WHEEL 321 EXTERIOR PARTS IN BODY COLOR 347 TITAN. LINE EXTERIOR 520 FOGLIGHTS 550 ON-BOARD COMPUTER 832 BATTERY IN LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT 853 LANGUAGE VERSION ENGLISH

I think local bodies in NZ have long forgotten who they are here to serve, and who funds them.

its not just newbies that get put off

sh*t doesn't even have a factory Hi Stop lamp!

We are on to our third conversion for a customer: M54B30 repower with all 330 suspension Have a couple of M sport ti`s to convert next both to manual Started with this: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/55155-recyling-e46-316318tis/#entry595689

CONDITION

You are dead right. Too much subjective crap on here at times.

Condition is everything. Age and mileage are relatively unimportant, unless you're expecting to sell on sooner rather than later. If that is the case, then put yourself in the position of "I have a mate who says these are good cars" and buy for yourself accordingly. That would suggest newest, lowest mileage is best, so long as it is shiny. A service history is only worth something if you kow the work has been done correctly. Our Merc 500 is off the road at the moment while I rebuild the front calipers - one had been done for the last WoF before I bought it but had been assembled more or less dry, and a piston has seized as a result. So I've pulled the other front caliper and... Yup - it's the same. Good job I have seal kits - I just need an airline to blow the pistons out. And I'll be checking the rears over Easter. I've seen far too many 'nice little man at the garage did that for me' cars. Based on that... The newer, higher mileage car is probably a better bet. It will have had to be maintained well, and if it hasn't, it will be quickly and easily spotted. Low mileage older cars just haven't had the opportunity to show how poor the maintenance may have been. The other thing is to check individual specs. You'll almost always sell a better-specced car easier than you would one with a poverty spec, regardless of condition, hostory or mileage.

Spotted this Z1 in Napier today. It has only done 47,000kms:

So far the ones im looking at are: 2006 - 50ks - $18k 2007 - 79ks - $16.8 2008 - 108ks - $17k 2009 - 80ks - $20k so the price variation is about 2-3k between them. the way I usually buy cars is I wont worry about kms but place more importance on service history OR price. If its cheap enough and in decent condition with no major issues, I would rather save the initial cost on the purchase price and sink the extra savings into maintenance myself.

They would have picked that car up for probably less than 5k in Japan. No one is going to pay over 10k, let alone 15 for a 22 year old Luxury barge in a relic status, especially when it has no x fact other than it's been sitting around all its life. Neglected cars don't make good cars!

No, that had my old suspension. It sits pretty much the same now, maybe marginally higher by a few millimeters. I'm going to make adapter plates and use E28 M30 brackets which I have. Proof that this is happening: Some other cool stuff that's going on:

So much bickering and fighting in this forum. Its no wonder there arent many newbies sticking around. Still better than Facebook, but not by much.

Hey Barry, that's a lovely example!I've just stuck a set of Style 5's like those above on my e28, they were factory rims on some e39 V8's. They're a good fit with a similar offset. Just need hub-centric rings fitted to make a perfect mount. Just waiting on some springs to make it more low

Sales? No mate, I do sell ideas, though. I work in IT. Please don't think any less of me, I do it to feed my family. Everyone needs tyres, it's not like ice to eskimos. Thinking about it, there are a few fields in which there is constant demand, rtegardless of economic circumstance. Haircuts (short of being bald or shaving your head/going hippie, all need haircut) Tyres (we wear them out, they build roads with chip seal) Funeral directors (the ritual of death never goes out of fashion) Doctor (people will usually try to remain here as long as possible before meeting the above) Bad news (the media) The oldest profession (I have read that there is always business) Fuel sales (at least for a few more decades, people will drive and need gas to do it) and, (if one was to believe the wheel magician website), mag wheel repairs Less-than constant demand: Clothes - there are always options when times are tight (mend what you have, thrift stores) Food - massive diversity, no guarentee you can sell food Coffee - contrary to popular belief, people without income will live without that $4.50 latte Dentistry (people put that off) Optician (supermarket or internet specs) So it's not too tough a sale, selling used tyres. One needs to find a market, and apply simple guidelines. Shhhh! Don't tell everyone! My views on "how to win at TradeMe". Write a good ad, break it down, make it simple. If you were looking to buy, what would you want to know about the item? display good images. Folks want to see what you're offering research your price and competition. no point trying to get a top-end price when there's ten of the same thing, cheaper. Make your market. answer questions promptly and politely (eliminate objections, as a salesman would say) be straightforward and easy to deal with. Folks fail at trademe because they're too bloody difficult to deal with, or write a lazy or poorly-worded advert with fuzzy poorly-lit photos, and make it difficult to understand what they're selling. Anyway, thanks for the positive comments. Nothing more to see here. Stinky black rubber bands have gone. Now to figure out if I should sell my Style 45s when this mini-project is complete. Olaf

Give the man some credit, that description is pretty good.