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F*** yeah. Bloody vacuum lines weren’t attached earlier CF8AB790-0427-4A9E-81F1-AFD06206C4FD.MOV

The 318Ci is listed at $3250. Just received this: I'm struggling to continue being a nice guy...

I want to like them.....but they don't quite tickle the senses like old school.....fast but remote. Any car that pumps synthetic engine noises through the stereo is also a challenge to my ideals!. When I gave one a serve at Hampton Downs it left me cold....and disappointed. If I had $50k spare I would buy a daily duties e60 LCI 530i motorsport for 15k and then use the remaining $35k on something interesting......e30 with a heart transplant......

The engine and suspension are in sport plus mode, the steering is in comfort mode. Does your M3 not have that??

Thanks mate, just bought one from them haha

i think you already know what to do and answered your own question towards the end there

Hello all, new to the forum and new to euro cars / Bmw's Bought this 07 335i e90 (not a M sport) in May here Hamilton and have been loving it even even with the few issues i have had The power of this car incredible, half throttle will light the rears and have the car matching the speed limit in a few seconds. My father drove it once before going out and buying himself a 135i a couple of weeks later Car is a Jap import and I am first NZ owner. Being a Japanese import car no history is known Have done a few things so far; Replaced front windscreen rubber, battery and had radio reprogrammed to NZ Still have to get air con condenser replaced and sort out the rear suspension / ride quality. The ride is rougher than i would like and the rear suspension has bottomed several times l took this to BMW yesterday to look at the suspension , they put it up on the lift and were surprised with the under neath. Front and rear sway bars (both adjustable), springs, front swing arms, most bushings and extra frame bracing I am looking for a set of OEM rear springs to see if that will help rear bottoming out. Currently the wheels are sitting just in feeders in the rear so there must not be much travel left. Has anyone had experience with this? As someone has spent a lot time / Money modifying this car i wonder if they would have touched the ECU? Would there even be any way to check this without putting the car on a dyno or taking it into BMW?

For reference, I bought an E91 with the N54 in late January this year. Almost 2 months and ~1,600 km later the engine check light came on (ironically right around the corner from the dealer I bought the car from). I had it towed to Auckland City BMW which was covered by mechanical insurance. They scanned it and it needed an ignition coil replaced. In the meantime, I called the dealer I bought the car from, explained the issue, they got it picked up, taken to a mechanic (of their choice which admittedly made me a bit dubious) who proceeded to replace six coils and six spark plugs with OEM parts at the dealers expense. You were definitely right in pushing for the reparation.

Looks to have the same issue i have with most of these cars which appear to built for drag races - big $ spent on engine\power side but running cheap coilovers (just for stance) with big heavy wheels with average at best tyres.

my automatic reply to these kinds of offers is "YES!! and $1750 (whatever the balance may be) by bank deposit?"

M1 and M2 buttons on the steering wheel can be programmed with your favourite combination of modes and settings. It's hours of fun deciding what's your preferred set up, takes a lot of back-to-back testing!!

I’ve got a nice set of 16x8 that’ll work nicely on your e28, dm if nterested

Swapped a 4th engine harness into my M30 (E30) and got the engine to fire up and die a couple times! Such a relief, now need to figure out why it won’t idle.

Some pictures It looks so good (from a considerable distance)

^^^ you just made 340 people unemployed. cant have that...

I can understand where Autosure is going with this. If the diagnostic check was done properly with the right type of professional diagnostic tool, it should, will show the number of times the fault has occurred and the mileage the fault occurred. The records could also be stored in other control units if the fault effects them as well. If the faults have been cleared that information is now lost. No specialist would clear these without keeping a copy in PDF form to be able to go back on. We saved all of these to cover ourselves and to provide proof of repairs carried out. It's a process.... Diagnostic check saved, Clear fault codes saved, Road test till fault codes appear again save, report to owner. Carry out repairs, clear fault codes, road test, recheck and save.

I got it in writing from the dealer that if they fix it this time and it causes more trouble, they will refund me the money and take the car back. That's the compromise we ended up reaching. So after limping to Masterton, the car is in the workshop. I received a phone call from the friendly folks at Autosure just before. They want all documentation that I received from the mechanic. They think it was a pre-existing problem. I'll send them the PDF above. Could be quite a fight haha. As for 1000km being too far to be covered by a guarantee - 1000km is pretty achievable by 2 days of driving. I can drive 600km in my 90km/hr Kenworth in my 14hr timeslot easily. It would be pretty nasty to have a guarantee that barely got me home! ?

Welcome! E91's are certainly the biz (even those without hairdryer's haha).

Anyone on here ??

Living further north, I've had no cause to use them, but know of several people who have been to see Lester at Autotorque in Palmerston North. They've been in business for about 15 years. Not to be confused with Auto Torque in Inglewood who are completely different and not, as far as I know, as proficient with Mercedes.

Yikes that's pretty bad for a late model car to catch on fire under the hood. You'd expect this from a 1970 British Leyland heap!

I see this a bit differently. Firstly you bought an imported N54 vehicle. I am not sure if you are aware but these engines have issues. The engine itself is pretty sound and unlike an s54 and some V8 and v10 motors you wont have to replace the bearings. You will however have to do plugs and coils, (maintenance items) and possibly injectors and a charge pipe at some stage. This is just part of N54 ownership, if you weren't prepared for this then you haven't done your homework. Looking at your description of the fault there is a chance its the plugs or the coil pack/s. If this is the case and the dealer will replace them then win to you. You have skipped a maintenance bill. If its the injector/s then even bigger win you will get another 50k or more (probably 100k) from the replacement . If its a faulty coil or injector then when one goes the others will follow pretty soon, so work a deal with the dealer to have all of them replaced, he may or may not but perhaps going halves would still be a good deal for you. When the basic faults and maintenance items are done on these engines then they are quite reliable, it does seem that Jap import N54s have fewer injector issues than US based cars, perhaps this is because of the better fuel in Japan. To me this is a 10 year old car with known faults/maintenance items if it turns out to be one of the above-mentioned items then its pretty typical of the breed, if its a high pressure fuel pump even bigger win to you if the dealer fixes it. Taking it back if its just a simple parts replacement is a bit of a waste of time, obviously you wanted the car and did some research and checked it out? It seems now that you have cold feet because of this but really you need to understand the fault first and then make an informed decision. If things like this put you off then with all due respect an N54 car may not be for you.

A cigarette lighter powered tyre pump and a can of tyre slime from Repco or Supercheap, and you're covered pretty well really. Had plenty of punctures on my non runflats and the tyre pump always kept me going long enough to get to a tyre shop, still haven't even needed to use the tyre slime. The flat tyre monitor picks up pressure loss long before it's flat so you get plenty of warning. Runflats are a bad joke.

The "actual" fault needs to be determined first before you start throwing money at it. 95% of fixing something is diagnosing the fault accurately before attempting to apply the fix to get the intended result.

ASB already less than that for the X5