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Took the M5 in to Auto38 today ... now on ~146KMs I've been getting a warning related to tyre pressure loss pretty much every time i take the car out - check pressures, they seem OK and reset pressures via iDrive - and off we go. Jon identified a valve leak on the right rear and has sorted this. It failed the WoF due to 2 things... both of which are annoying and unexpected expenses but I can't really argue either point the passenger wing mirror is defective... chromatic mirror (option S430A, LCD) has failed and the LCD is draining. Doesn't appear to be any way of fixing these... and options are buy new M5 heated chromatic mirror glass - Winger - ~$1800!, Schmiedmann ~$900ish buy new M5 heated non-chromatic mirror glass via Winger for $500, Schmiedmann ~$350ish so I'm going for the $500 Winger option, taking advantage of the BMW Car Club parts discount. The chromatic/auto-dip isn't really that important IMHO. despite passing many warrants previously, the windows were identified as being tinted at twice the legal level (70%!). I thought they were factory tinted but this is not the case. So this means getting the existing tints removed (carefully!) and applying new ones at 35%. I've contacted Window Magic here in Wellington who come highly recommended... we'll see what this costs. Hopefully it isn't too bad as I'd like to get tints on the F30 too... Jon is sourcing a part to remedy the small coolant leak - glad there weren't any issues when I drove it in this morning We're pricing a replacement left fuel sender as i would like to get the annoying fuel gauge issue sorted. When I drive off it shows half a tank, and then the fuel increases to reflect the actual fuel level. The right sender has already been done back in 2018. Jon has done an oil change and I'd asked him to check for metal particles - and yes there is some visible. At this point I need to decided if I bother with an oil analysis, or put the money I'd spend on this towards just getting the rod bearings done as a preventative measure, just as @aja540i did with his E61 M5 Touring (such an awesome vehicle!) Turner Motorsport and ECSTuning recommend bearing replacement at 60-80,000 miles On the Facebook M5 owners' group - the consensus seems to be 'get it done' Now my issue is finding who can or will do it for me in Welly! Any advice here? Seeing if Jon is willing to tackle it - and will ask Mike Page European and Winger too. Feels like an expensive time for me, but for me the M5 is a special car and I can't see what I'd replace it with. ?

So with the track day over, and Mega Meet just over a month away, better get that exhaust sorted. Just for reference this is what I was running: M52 headers (front modified), into a merge, then 2.5in through 2 coby's into a magnaflow muffler Went to TTT Auto Engineering off a recommendation from the forums to get a new exhaust made up. I ended up taking them another set of M52 headers, a mid section off a 135i, and a custom muffler that I had done by Manawatu Muffler Centre, and said make it fit, and specified where I'd like the V-bands. I think I've only got full photos while it was being tacked up: And here it is on the ground Back to the sump and the mid muffler being the lowest points on the car. Really impressed with the job on the exhaust. It is quieter across the board. Don't have the popping noises as I decelerate anymore (though I know some of you love those) But annoyingly, hasn't resolved my cabin resonance issue at 2000RPM. Put a new genuine IS lip on, as I smashed the fibreglass one I had over a year earlier reversing out of a driveway (Not mine) And sorted out my sunroof. This was inside the 'rust free' sunroof I purchased Mmm yummy. I split it at all the pinch welds, took it to a panel shop (Not the one that did my tailgate, though I did actually take it to them to be done with the car originally) Where it then got acid dipped, then rust protectent applied to the inside, and pinched back together and painted. This is what my old sunroof left in my drains: I then converted my sunroof to electric. There are a few ways to do this it turns out. But the easiest way is just to take the full electric system out of a working car, and swap it in. I tried the drill/cut method, but I just made a mess, and cross threaded the motor mounts. Only really need the brass rails and everything inside the cabin. You coupe/sedan people have it easy, as you don't have to pull your whole headlining out to do this. Purchased a recovered Tech 2 wheel a while back, so put that on as well. It is a larger 385mm, but I prefer it to a 370mm for cruising as I can actually see the speedo. Then went down to Megameet 2019. Had a couple of issues 1. My car decided that it didn't want to start during the whole weekend, after driving and then being parked up for say 20 minutes. Suspect either heatsoaked starter, or dying battery. This lead to me becoming a pro at push starting my own car. 2. The rear V-Band clamp fell off on the trip down after I gained some air. This was definitely on me, as I had removed the rear muffler to polish it up a little, and I didn't tighten it back up enough. So still needed the earplugs I had in the car. And it made GREAT noises driving through the tunnels. Fortunately managed to find a shop open on Saturday that had V-Band clamps in stock, so after that the earplugs were no longer required. Was great catching up with a bunch of enthusiasts. Especially @_BRS_ and @Olaf Compared my brakes with Olaf's as he reckoned the Hawk HPS pads were great for street use. So both cars Hawk HPS pads. (Though drums in the rear of the little 316i) Could lock Olaf's wheels up at 80km/h no worries when I slammed on the brakes. Mine, I slowed down, but couldn't lock up even when smashing the pedal. Suspect either cooked pads, or stuck caliper(s). So some progress there. When home via Taupo via Okau road. Google reckoned it was a faster route. What it didn't tell me, was that it was mostly gravel. Still, there was no one else on the road, and it was reassuring to have the LSD.

Hi all, Have just purchased this car within the last few months, I don't have much information on this car and would like to gain as much knowledge on it as I can. First owner in New Zealand with around 84000kms. Was wondering what I could do as preventative maintenance. Car is manual

Well, as I said, had issues with the headers rubbing on the steering shaft on the track. But that wasn't my only issue with my exhaust system. This is my rear driveshaft hoop in the trans tunnel As you can see, a bit too much clearance. A 10mm socket can sit in there (10mm socket is 38mm high) So needless to say, my exhaust sits reasonably low. And it also rubs on my rear subframe. And it drones in the cabin at 2000rpm. So a new exhaust was on the cards. But the first step is to give it more clearance in the tunnel. Went to Mike at Euro turbo to get something inbetween my existing hoops, and his ones. Much better. My recommendation is definitely to get E30 hoops from Mike, as they fit really well, and hard to get something cheaper. I also recommend clarifying with your certifier how far back you need to have the hoops if you're unsure, as it turns out I'd put mine in less than ideal spots. I left the front hoop as is (even though it was also massive), as an exhaust is never going to go under it. I also installed the LSD unit. Interestingly there are 2 different plugs you can have on the speed sensors. I'm going to assume one is PFL and the other is FL. So swapped them over, and I was good to go. Unfortunately one of the previous owners wasn't that clever, and decided to crimp onto the loom the different plug Managed to disconnect this when pulling the diff, and had to crimp it back on. Another way you can tell an LSD from a non. The LSD weighs a lot more. The bug had well and truly bit. I went down to Taupo for another track day Managed to get a pair old R888's off @raewyn22, so chucked those on some weaves, and went down. Also replaced those tyres I scrubbed all the way down with some Michelin Sport 4's After a few laps, they were nice and dirty Shared a garage with a swift, who was managing about 5 seconds faster than me round the track Highlight of the day was a Porsche GT3 owner asking to borrow my Ryobi air compressor My best lap was 1:58.70, which was 7 second improvement on my last day. I'll put that mostly down to better driving, but having the better tyres might have made a small difference. Only faults this time: -I badly crimped the speed sensor back on, so it disconnected 2 laps in -My radiator started weeping very slowly -Exhaust still rubbing (but not a surprise this time)

Schmiedmann Christmas order arrived (no GST). I added the free mug because it reduced the shipping cost by US$20. ? Matt black grills (replacing the tatty CF ones) BMW Performance Alcantara steering wheel cover (to match the shifter and boot) OEM stubby aerial to replace the naff carbon fibre one 3.5mm + USB aux 'switch' - requires quite a lot of wiring and coding I think, might never go in. I also received another package from the US that I'm a little bit excited about but I need to work out if it's a win or fail before I release the details (which I will do regardless of whether it's a win or fail). I want to install it all now but I'm on BBQ duty! ?

What a great thread revival. A+

I paid $2k for mine. This one looks a lot cleaner and better maintained, although higher kms. Hardly end of life, maybe end of life for BMW fans but would make a great first car, commuter or upgrade project.

Item is listed in marketplace. 260,000ks is getting up there. However with a replacement lower kilometre (200,000ks) receipted engine and all running gear / suspension components suitably 'refreshed' I'd argue that this isn't an end of life vehicle. Would make a good alternative for a similarly priced/ aged toyota/honda sports car and is bordering on 2k cup territory!

Well I figured I'd carry on the legacy, and keep a project thread for this car that I bought off M3AN. Old Project thread: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/56912-another-e36-my-328-beauty-sold/ I purchased the car wanting to turn it into a track hack, as I've taken the E30 touring out to a few track days. It's performed well but would eventually like a rollcage for safety, and also some larger brakes. Both of which aren't something I would to do to my touring, so here we are. Same motor, but I think it will easily be able to beat the tourings time around the track without stripping it for weight savings. So picked up the car on the original 16s yesterday. Got her home, and on went the ACS type 2's (17x8 ET38) Initial impressions -Handles really well -Not a fan of the aftermarket alarm (had to get M3an to show me the trick to be able to leave his driveway) -The Auto box needs to go. It's really lets down all the suspension work done on the car, as it likes to hunt around and jerk. In comparison the E36 318ti I've been dailying is much nicer drive around town, and feels the same power wise ? -I did say to M3an that I didn't think there was much difference between the stock E36 rack and a purple tag after having both in my E30 (admittedly I drove it a year apart). But after driving this and the E30 back to back, there is definitely a difference. Purple tag is just tighter, and doesn't have the dead zone in the middle. -Sunroofs are not my friend. Hair rubs on the roof with the seat as low as it goes. Might have to change my seating position. Things to do -Value cover seal replacement (weeping a bit from the front) -Fix weird idle issue (hunts around a bit there) -Manual conversion -Bucket seat -Boss kit -Brake upgrade (Need to find some 330i fronts) -Purple tag rack swap -Have all the barrels work off 1 key -Remove the aftermarket immobiliser -Find a replacement front guard -Poly bushings -Rollcage -Put the AC back in (I'd rather be cool driving too and from the track, rather than have weight savings) -VANOS rebuild -Fix drivers window (Seems to detect too much pressure going up, and then retracts slightly)

Hey there everyone, I just scored an amazing deal on our new 1997 E39 528i - I've had a bit of a thing for the E39 for a while now, and I managed to convince my wife that she liked them by finding this one just up the road from us - 94,000kms, NZ New. She was sold as soon as she drove it! It's definitely the nicest sedan I've driven, it's a truly impressive car. Very happy to have joined the BMW club!

given your work rate, the e36'll be ready in time for Waitangi day!

Here is a pic of the project

Well with E30 Mega meet over, there was only 1 event left in the year. Another track day down at Taupo. Fitted a Z3M radiator to replace my weeping one Made a paper gasket for the thermostat housing, as I was also weeping from there Then out onto the track. I took a friend with me this time, and he drove the car for a few rounds, so I have some (bad) footage. It's hard to see from my camera, but in person it was very weird to see so much body roll. Out on the track against an RX8, an AE86, and a Turbo MX5 Interestingly, my friend was faster in the MX5 around the corners, but the MX5 pulled away on the straights. That's the difference of being a more confident driver (as well as not having hot boi rims with no vents) My friend is a better driver than me, and managed a 1:55 something from memory. I did a bit worse than last time, and my best time was a 2:00.43 Brake wear sensor light went on after the 2nd to last session of the day. Figuring it might just be an old E30 thing, checked the pads, but they seemed ok, so did a final session. Got home, took off the pads, and found the fronts were gone. Swapped to some stock ATE pads, and now I can lock up my wheels on the street ? YAY! So yeah, don't think the Hawk HPS pads are up to my track day use, and I must have cooked them. Also, my friend left the doors open on the car during the day, and after 6 hours, the car didn't want to start. Swapped to a 710CCA battery After all this, figured that regular track days in an E30 touring might not be the best idea long term. So purchased an E36 328i: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/62999-the-bimmersport-family-e36-328i Probably will take the E30 out again a few more times until the E36 is ready though.

Yeah no worries, they’re not going anywhere soon. Let me know when you’re up this way, if I head down to CHCH before, I’ll let you know.

Nearly there, just need to refit waterpump and tighten crankshaft bolt, then refit the rest. Very excited as car is in great condition, but I have not heard motor running, so here is hoping all is good!. Should know this coming weekend

Maintenance is nothing if the car has bottomed out, or maintains value. This is my justification for continuing to daily an e46 m3. Same would go for E39 M5. If you'd hung onto an e30 motorsport from the early 2000s you'd be up! Even some Ferrari's can work out cheaper than a new 3 series if you have the capital.

I think the push to get it back together was for an ex-collegue's 50th birthday. For this, he'd hired out the Taupo track and invited all the car enthusiasts he knew. I think I said last track day I needed to improve -Tyres - Swapped to a slightly newer set (compared to the MY02s) of Toyo T1R's in 225/45/R16 -Seat - Used a recaro bottom mount seat -Brakes - Still running hawk HPS pads with fresh fluid Sadly, not much footage again, but she went round beautifully. And was happy with all the changes since last track day. -Tyres were much better to drive on, and had very little squeal pushing at the limit -Less flopping around in the Recaro seat with the larger bolsters -Brakes were better than last time, but still need improvement Best lap time was 2:05.62 A couple of issues, with the E28 rubber mounts, my exhaust headers rubbed on the steering shaft in hard corners , and then at the end of the day, when we did drags I didn't realise where the 1/4 mile ended, slammed on my brakes, they locked up. And my fronts then were very sad. All the way down below the wear line. The drive home was very bumpy, as the rest of the tyre was about 6-7mm tread. This brings us to end of August 2019

So with the car back, need to piece it all back together. This took a while, as I first needed to paint some spots that were missed in the engine bay. Mainly under the battery tray (Not rusty). Sarge was good at supervising Managed to get some not completely dried up sound deadening from Mike of Euro Turbo. Then swapped in a purple tag rack while everything was out. Some side by side comparisons, E36 rack with E30 ends bottom, Purple tag with E46 inners, e36 outers top (I think) Got a new steering shaft put together by the local driveshaft shop (E30 end of steering column piece onto Barina shaft). All in Also did most of the front end rubber: -Mondeo drop links for the front sway bar -New front sway bar bushings -New lower control arms -New lollipop bushings (E36 M3 centered ones) And then put in the motor and all the rest. -Rebuilt brake master cylinder -Swapped to the Cylinder shape E28 M5 motor mounts, as I was getting a lot of noise in the cabin. -Swapped to a double cut front valance. More speed holes for the future AC retrofit, plus it looks better. Then gave her the first clean in over 12 months

Figured I'd not only get those lovely holes fixed up, but might as well attend to some of my other issues. Tailgate rust (Not nearly as bad as some I'd seen) Some rust in the door jab Got that all quoted up for a reasonable price. Now here is the real f**k up. Asked for some additional work to be done, but didn't get it quoted, and didn't get anything in writing. About 5 months later, I got the car back along with a massive bill to pay. Not happy. Some photos of the tailgate during the repair: Looking a bit better Don't have a decent after shot, but might add that later. During those 5 odd months I: Bought a TI to run about it: Got a 3.64 LSD to be installed later. Which brings us to end of April 2019.

So funnily enough, I left my computer on the project page, and the wife saw the photo. I now have a dedicated pot to boil my parts in. Managed to avoid both the garden shed, the kennel, and the couch.

Likewise Dave. Good to put a face to the name. I took it out on my normal backroads, and it certainly felt a lot nicer than the E30 around all the corners, and the power delivery was surprisingly different with the auto box. Felt like it pulled more at the top end, but that's probably because it was slower at the bottom end haha. Well as we all know, manual conversions aren't normally cheap, so figured if I could get it from pick a part, that would be the way to go. So might as well bail on my Sunday plans to fix up the 318ti so I can sell it, and get a manual conversion instead (No real loss) Cheers on the wheels. Love me some ACS wheels.

On a whim I checked pick a part's website on Saturday night. There was a 318i manual over in Tauranga. So a trip over there Sunday morning, arriving just after opening, was greeted with the whole thing still being there (even with the car being in the yard for a few days). With some help from @alisterh (who I had picked the wheels off from in Auckland only the day before) managed to get the whole lot out in about 2 hours. I know the Getrag 220's aren't quite as good as the ZF boxes, but for 1/6 the price of a conversion kit for one, I'll give this a go. So that will go in once I've gotten rid of the 318ti.

Sold! What a bargain.

Why are they expensive? Because they are big. Try your local BMW dealer for prices might be able to better that

Collected today. Farewell black beauty, may you serve your new master as well as you served me. ❤️

Have bought a 2001 540i with broken timing chain guides. Found when checking parts prices that I can buy parts for approx 50% of NZ suppliers prices from UK or USA. Was a bit reluctant due to high freight cost. Ended up buying from Aus, info@runautoparts.com.au. Worth checking out for parts, so far I am very happy with their service and prices. Freight was only $15

Hi! Sorry I've never replied. it is an e36. I am actually going with m54b30 with manual gearbox. Engine is out and am waiting on the harness adapter to use the chassis harness with the engine one. You can follow it in bmw.anunziata.nz or https://www.instagram.com/bmwupgradeproject/ Cheers

Hey @balancerider Well - here are my observations... great daily driver - although the start/stop engine behaviour is quite unsettling at first, and the not putting the key in the ignition is also a new thing for me average fuel consumption on mostly urban driving is ~11.2l/100KM - so lower than all the others, as you'd hope for a much more modern vehicle! It is nice having all the modern tech - BT audio and phone are the most useful - but not sure if anything else really matters Black paint is a pain ? the modern turbo six sounds beautiful and the torque is epic - very different to all the other NA vehicles. On the digital sport gauges it is reporting 240KW against a claimed 225KW - but who knows if this is correct... steering is nice and light but firms up in sport mode flies very well along country roads and handles great despite not being a Motorsport model - was great on the recent Napier/Hastings trip the blindspot detection doesn't seem to work at all - will get that checked when it goes in for a service at Winger After spending a lot of time driving this vehicle, it's safe to say that something like this (especially a touring) is quite conceivably all the BMW you ever need - super nice to be in, goes like the clappers with buckets of instant power - and handles well, while being reasonable on fuel. That said, I enjoy all the different driving experiences with the vehicles we have, and the V10 M5 still makes me smile the most. Driving the 335i has put a F80 M3 somewhere in my future plans... turbo 6 3-series = a damned good thing!

But how will people know I’m a cashed up Ponsonby tradie without a blacked out Ranger?

Ford. You are not good at picking vehicles. Avoid at all costs. Especially the Ranger.

Offshore parts sites like FCPEuro.com in the states and Schmiedmann.com in Denmark are good places to get reality checks on prices. Even factoring freight and soon to be GST (on all orders, not just above $400), offshore prices are generally well worth looking at. And RealOEM.com for entering your cars VIN and getting specific part numbers (works well most of the time... not all .. but most..) Beware the LHD RHD trap on certain parts. Again RealOEM should help in this regard.