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Here’s a photo of the strut brace

Jesus, what a bloody nightmare. It was running so well! Looking into the hole with the motor removed you could visibly see wear/cupping on the teeth that engage with the motor. Im not sure what "normal" looks like, so not sure if it was excessive. New motor/gasket was fitted and end stops were learned with INPA with no issues.

Some JDM greats in that garage for sure! NSX and FD are some of the best looking Japanese cars every made. Very, very cool indeed.

Yeah it's certainly a strange one to explain! the Honda, despite having a bigger premium on it, is rough in comparison so i'm not as precious about things like keeping the ks down etc. In saying that, it probably will also fall to the same regime the M3 did haha! I guess the main difference will be the fact that it is a longstanding dream car for me, so even if its seldom used like the bmw was, I wont feel as guilty (or so I hope!) Nah, it's an AW11 I had LITERALLY just finished restoring. was a total rotten mess when I got it, we do have an FD though! (i'll post a photo of them all below) I'll just note that the Honda isn't mine (yet), we're still mid negotiating stuff, so I don't wanna upload anything up for sure at the mo, but once its all finalized i'll put some cheeky pics of it up (i'll slap some bmw stickers on it to keep it "relevant" ) Hopefully this will suffice in the meantime!

Exactly... big kidney grills are the equivalent of putting a giant phallus on the front to the Chinese market...

My clutch setup was still running fine when I sold the car in 2018

As a bit of a left-field consideration... since you seem to be able to set it and it then goes out over a relatively short period of time... Are you confident the timing chain, guides and tensioners are good? I can imagine a scenario where if the chain were a little bit out of kilter it could (because of the VVT/Valvetronic) pull the timing out of kilter also. Having said that, I'd expect it to get progressively worse to the point of not starting, rather than settle.

I'll take it out of the mathematical realm because, to be honest, I'm not following the math. Could @3pedals numbers be considered representatively accurate even if they're not literally accurate? i.e. could they represent the real-world outcome even if they're not precise? Genuine question, I really don't know. Either way, I do agree that empirical, experience based evidence is more valuable than theoretical modelling.

Regardless of whether the "style language" catches on, they're disproportionate and non-functional (either largely or entirely blanked off). That they've actually admitted why they've done it, to pander to the predominantly Chinese Asian market, makes it even worse. That's the tail wagging the traditional BMW dog as naked as can be. Tesla have already convinced many people that cars can look better without grills, it's difficult to see where BMW are going with this. Maybe they'll eventually just paint them on? Pure engineering that.

yes - receipts from BMW palmy north.......$1000 to rice your BMW. Would you be happier if I said factory accessory?

Yes it can do, they wear or rust up due to lack of servicing and too many short trips. New shaft with teflon rings, and recommend levers also replaced. Cost wise, not cheap, cams can be $1000ish and then some plus labour, levers gaskets etc

25% accurate at the very best I would say or as I see it 75% inaccurate, yet you post it up misleading people with fast and loose calculations. The facts as you present them, are as much opinion and support for your way of thinking as anything else. You really do waste peoples time with this type of approach.

Long time no update! Its in great shape and just gone over 400.000km! -M20B25 Swap -Manual Conversion (G240) -Poly Bushes -Koni Shocks -King Springs -Recaro Seats -Ultra Racing Front Strut, Front Subframe and Rear Strut Braces -LVVTA Certification Next thing is a re-paint. The front panels (bonnet and guards) are peeling clear coat something chronic.

Took some photo's so here's a step-by-step to fabricate a bracket to hold the M3 Euro Expansion Tank. Turns out it was easy to remove and there was enough length in the hose to push it up onto the inlet manifold so I could take photo's. Your car should already have a bracket on the firewall where the back of the mounting ledge bolts to with 2 x M6 screw. If you fabricate a flat plate ledge (eg 3mm Ally sheet) you need to put a 6mm spacer between the bracket and ledge so it sits at the correct height. I used cardboard and tape to make a template of the plate. This was overlaid onto the 3mm Ally Sheet and traced out. The Ally Sheet was cut out with a Jigsaw. The firewall bracket mounting holes were marked out with the plate sitting in-place. The strut tower end had hole marked out about where they would need to be. Once the holes were drilled and the plate screw in to the firewall bracket I marked through the strut tower holes onto the strut tower bracket. This bracket was only temporarily bolted in so it was removed to drill the holes for the ledge. Next the position for the expansion tank was marked out on the ledge with the tank sitting roughly in place. I marked only the foot end and then removed the ledge to get everything else lined up on the bench. The bracket for the rear expansion tank mounts was cut to suit along with the PVC mount. The rear bracket was bolted on and the ledge was ready to reinstall. Top View of the completed ledge: You can see the bracket bolted and glued to the strut tower. The ledge is made from 3mm Ally sheet. The Bracket to hold the ECU plug is made from 25x50x3mm Ally Angle with the bit that slides into the plug mounting grooves made from standard electrical DIN Rail cut to reduce the width. The Bracket to hold the back of the expansion tank is made from 25x100x3mm channel with one end cut off and a piece of 25x25x3mm Ally Angle bolted to it facing backwards. The bracket has to be bent to match the angle of the two round things on the back of the expansion tank. The grey plastic is 10mm PVC sheet. I put a nylock on the M5x40 bolt holding the PVC so it could be left just nipped up and could swivel so the expansion tank can be slid in at an angle then turned into place. At the strut end there's a flat plate added to allow for the thickness of the foot of the expansion tank. You need to make a small plate up to screw on to this plate to clamp the foot. Bolts holding the back of the ledge to the firewall (6mm spacer underneath): Finished Install (except the missing coolant low plug!!) The coolant low brown/white wire needs to be pulled back from the radiator drivers side and a new ground wire added/ Height the expansion tank sits at:

So just worked it out the exhaust and strut brace brand new round up to about $3500 NZD

I will still get it done anyway they have a decent guarantee so if it dont work out ill just get my money back. Plus the money im spending is from the 635 sale anyway so its all free anyway.

Personally I wouldnt bother with out of the box generic tunes, particularly ones with extraordinary claims like 211kw... if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. The "dynographs" on his website ring alarm bells too, MS paint is not dyno software Put the money towards a LSD/maintenance/etc. If you want more power in the future, get a proper dyno tune with things to make use of it (like MILVs/headers/etc) But, its also not my money, and I wanna see what the results are

I call BS on this as you just dont have enough info to make this accurate. It will either be full of assumptions or so simple because of lack of solid input data that the results are irrelevant.

You can road tune

Very rarely do these people create their own base tunes on a dyno, they're typically downloaded from international subscription databases that contain images that have been developed on a dyno. I'm not sure what extra tuning you can do without a dyno... it would all be guesswork I'd think.

The tyre pressure monitoring works by diagnosing from the wheel speed sensors. They don't have sensors inside the wheel

I nearly purchased a new Honda NSX but it didn't have enough room for the kids. I got a new Celica 2000GT instead

I'd just go to what has been proven to work for DIY applications. It's not like we have to enter F1 specifications to have a bit of fun and enjoy doing it.

Shes ALIVE Homies?????????? ....3rd attempt.... 20200609_140305.mp4

Now turning to some things that were planned previously and never happened due to the car not being driveable(un-safe) during lockdown/most of my ownership: - Alignment. New rear tyres fitted, that have barely been driven on, this is first up. - Paint touch up on the wheels, hopefully same time as alignment. - Supersprint exhaust back box from my parts car. Will give it a polish before fitment. - New antenna, ordered today as I fitted a stock one sourced from here but I didn't like the look once fitted. Ordered a stumpy one. - Headlight and side indicator tidy up, have a headlight lens restore kit which I'll use to clean and protect the headlights. After all these things are done there's still a couple of cosmetic issues with the car. But I'm going to drive it and enjoy it for a while before dealing with them. Some pics from antenna fitting today:

in my N55 engine, worn eccentric shaft and subsequently damaged valvetronic motor resulted in rough idle/running at low rpm but the bigger issue was it would randomly just die/turn engine off while driving. replaced the shaft and motor and it was fixed.. cost.... dont wana talk about it

Guess I got excited too soon, car is broken again. f**king sick of this bullshit. Threw an engine light driving home last night. Carly shows a 2A39 code(valvetronic, adjustment range) and a misfire in cylinder 1. Afaik we did everything correctly setting the limits on the valvetronic motor as the car drove mint for a hundred kms or so over 48 hours. Considering all that has been changed it seems unlikely, though I suppose possible, to be misfiring because of a coil(has new plugs). Internet reading on various forums about 2A39 suggests a lot of stuff that's already been swapped(see previous posts in thread) plus also cleaning eccentric shaft sensor or potentially something damaged inside the engine like the eccentric shaft or its springs. Anyone come across this error code or something like this before? I've changed a whole lot of bits and essentially the same fault is re-occuring, though its clearly mis-firing this time around, so still haven't chased down what was wrong with it when it first broke back in the glory days of 2019. Wonder at what point its worth buying a used motor and taking all the new bits of this pos motor.

They were also making fun of front wheel drives.