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Picked up the new car and had a fantastic drive back to Auckland. Stoked with it!

2001 BMW 530i touring in Titan Silver Metallic. 292,xxx kms. 1 year wof done in May. Rego expires October. This has been a restoration project for me and the time has come to let a new owner enjoy this modern classic. A pretty extensive maintenance regime has been undertaken... Suspension wise I have fitted new shocks, Front springs, ball joints and control arms. The rear subframe bushes (common issue on e39 touring) have also recently been replaced with more durable solid rubber. She now handles and rides superbly. New rear discs and pads along with hoses and fresh brake fluid. M54 Engine maintenance is all up to date. Vanos overhauled, complete cooling system overhaul including the 2 plastic pipes under the intake manifold. Valve cover gasket replaced and new plugs. Lots of time and money invested. Not your average e39 that’s well overdue for maintenance. I’m asking $7500. See my project thread for details.

Picked it up from Continental BMW, diff out, all new seals, back in again. No more oil leak! BMW club membership paid for itself and more, approx $300 off the total bill, happy with that.

Why don’t you try selling them then instead of having a whinge about being called out for sh*t stirring. Subtle enough?

I've been meaning to post here for ages, but finally getting around to it now! After owning a few Audis and VWs I was itching to get back into a BMW, and really wanted to be driving a manual again. I had several E30s when I was younger and wanted something with that kind of small car feel, but more modern, safer, and with 4 doors for getting the kids in and out of their car seats. Pretty quickly I realised the 130i fitted the bill perfectly. Great daily driver on the commute, even better for a weekend back road blast, and with enough room to fit the kids in too (just). After looking for a short while, I managed to pickup this 2007 LCI, with the all important hydraulic power steering, with 125000km on the clock for $8500. Bargain!! That was back in April 2019, and I pretty much immediately set about with the "improvements." To be honest, I've gone a bit overboard and spent significantly more than the purchase price again, but man what a fun car! Puts a smile on my face every day in a way my old Golf R never really could. The mods done are as follows: Engine: Simota intake Supersprint backbox with resonator delete MILVs purchased but not yet fitted. To be done soon when I do valve cover gasket, then a tune to follow... Drivetrain: BMW performance short shifter CDV delete plus braided clutch hose Quaife LSD Redline gearbox and diff fluid Suspension/Chassis Birds B1 dynamic kit - Biltstein dampers, Eibach springs and H&R sway bars E9X M3 front control arms and radius arms Camber pin mod, and max front camber Whiteline rear subframe inserts E81 rear chassis brace Brakes 135i brake upgrade - 6 piston front and 2 piston rear calipers with dimpled/slotted discs and EBC redstuff pads. Calipers painted brembo red with brembo decals (just 'cause :-p) Braided hoses all round Wheels and Tyres BBS RE 847 18 x 8 ET35 Front, and RE 848 18 x 9 ET45 Rear. Lightweight forged BBS Japan goodness! Goodyear Eagle F1 Supersport tyres - 225/40/18 Front, 245/35/18 Rear. These tyres are AWESOME, can't recommend highly enough! Styling Carbon front splitters and carbon mirror caps outside BMW Performance shift knob and alcantara shift boot, plus BMW performance alcantara handbrake Other than that there have been a few maintenance items to do but nothing interesting. It's pretty much perfect now, from my perspective. Just got to get those MILVs fitted plus the tune! Maybe down the track I'll think about headers too, but that's well into the too hard/expensive basket for now. Here's a couple of pics I took post-wash last weekend. Let me know what you think ? Only letting me upload 3 pics for now, so more soon...

As above, big circular fan that sits behind the glove box, part number 64119227671. Number 1 on the diagram below.

I am the one selling it on behalf of the current owner, this an amazing car!! I agree the price is up there, I have been flamed on some other forums, but, try & buy another NZ new 535is & build it to this level for $24

the best method I found is to use a euro plate mount but if you dont feel like paying for that or prefer a plate only clean look, you can use some thick double sided 3m tape with a few layers on top and bottom without the sticker peeled to provide a kind of spacer and use some more tape with it peeled to get it "over" the little circular bumps. Its all good to do it this way until you have to remove the plates for whatever reason then you end up bending the aluminium trying to get the tape off

Got some floating centre caps for my birthday, I suppose that means I have to get my ass into gear and refurbish the wheels.

Mint, still after one.

I think I have one. Will check tomorrow. I am Wellington based.

@Sammo <-- this

frustrating 2 steps forward one back on paddle shift today. the Clock Spring I have has partially failed (after a week of intermittant paddle shift functionality) with only cruise and stereo controls working. no paddle shift. i purchased some new paddle micro switches 4 dollars each. after reading how common the up shift failing is, due to a dirty or faulty micro switch. Thinking being, go new parts wherever possible from here on in. new switches were soldered inplace, switch loom bench tested, all working fine - yuss. re-installed switches in car, nothing working- what the!? checked all connectins nothing wrong or missing cruise control works stereo control works more prodding with a multi meter commenced. tip tronic shift from gear stick still works - tested ok tested paddle shift loom from steering column to gear box with miltimeter, (no clock spring) - tested ok tested Paddle shift switches to rear of clock spring pins with multimeter - Failed So looks very much like the 2nd hand clock spring is the culprit or atleast the circuit / ribbon section of it that passes the Paddles signal through to the transmission. sh*t. So, atleast i have 2 new switches, and understand the problem area, now I'm on the hunt for a new clokcpring or really good working 2nd hand one

It sounds great, I really love it! I actually did it in steps as I didn't want it to be too loud, so first I fitted it with the resonator still there. I guess with the powerloop it still "muffles" pretty well because it was barely any louder than stock which was pretty disappointing. Now its much better with the resonator gone, exactly how I wanted it to sound.

It doesn't seem worth worrying about unless they quote a whole bunch of images. And yes, the notification usecase is valid and valuable. Avoid quoting images and we should be fine.

Huge upgrade from the e82! Well done

I now know why panel beaters charge so much, challenging is probably an understatement, body work isn't my strong point, but i'm not going to be accepting a not perfect finish. The more i get into it trying to rebuild curves on it, it becomes more apparent that this vehicle was probably drifted into a bush of sorts in an accident, all sorts of ripples in inconvenient places and low spots. rebuilding that edge is probably the most difficult part, it's slightly dipped in a spot, and a curved lip, so very hard to even have a guide coat as the method of making it flat Lost count of how many rounds of guide coat -> sand -> filler -> guide coat -> filler, and cold weather not making it easy for curing time! Onto another layer of high build primer now, going to have another guide coat over it, see where i'm at tomorrow Also having trouble deciding between 2 colours on the car, so i've got some base coat, and going to do a test spray on the front in the next few days, instead of spraying a swatch.

WTB. Working Clock spring to fit E39. (E46, E46 M3) with heated steering wheel pins or smg pins. These will be the 2 stand alone pins on the left of the clock spring when mounted. the one I have has partially failed (after a week of intermittant use / functionality) with only cruise and stereo controls working. no paddle shift.

I have no loss of power. But a loss of power would result in a code of some kind. If the hiccups are actually misfires you will have a code. The Vanos and valvetronic motor will also both throw codes and will both cause a loss of power. Only reason mine wasn't throwing codes was because it was actually the Torque converter playing up. As others have said get someone with INPA or ISTA to scan the car.

It's the Z13 concept from 1993.

A house upgrade.

Now that you mention it, they will be Eibach springs, I couldn't quite remember haha. I'll edit the first post. Definitely H&R swaybars though! Yellow brakes have to be better, right? Doesn't that automatically make them carbon ceramics?? ?

A few more pics...

That's the size of IPA I need really....will track down a commercial place. Yeah IPA is an ingredient (or part of the process) in a popular illicit substance so they understandably keep an eye on bulk buying