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Been looking at 130i prices around the world, NZ has the cheapest 130s by a LONG way, we probably have the largest number per capita too. Average aussie auto 130i is 15kAUD + duties, manuals are closer to 20. UK is circa 7000 pound private for similar vehicle (rustier.. ) (~13,500NZD), German prices for similar car is around 11000 euro (18k NZD). Even the Japanese auction houses are ~$12,000NZD+ imported which means the NZ japanese import dealers are not making much on them. Our market is obviously skewed by cheap japanese imports... the question is when do the imports dry up? Japans domestic stock has to dry up as some point, or maybe the coming (or current) regulations will stop making them as feasible to import for peanuts and we will see a big correction in 130 pricing. Might be time to stock up

Here's some I found

145,500 kms. Finally got around to getting something up on here. In September I bought this little weapon. It's a 1998 E36 328i Coupe in Montreal Blue. Originally a Japan car, but imported and sold by Shelly BMW as an Approved Used Import in 2004. This car clearly has been cherished - it is in fantastic condition. I have been fond of the E36 for as long as I can remember. Mum bought one in Hellrot Red to replace our big and unreliable Mitsubishi Pajero when I was about 5 years old. It was a 1996 318i saloon, automatic, with the standard cloth seats. I think the only optional extras it had were power windows, fog lights, and the digital clock. We had the car about 10 years and did well over 200,000 kms in it. I recall everything falling apart on it: headliner falling down, cloth door cards falling apart, and the clear coat peeling off the front bonnet. But mechanically, it was stupidly reliable. I don't remember it causing her any major issues. My sister, mum, and I took that thing all over the country and it only let us down once (a failed water pump I think). Finally, at about 300,000 kms, it had some major engine issue which wasn't worth fixing. Anyway, that car was my first taste of the BMW world, namely the E36, and I absolutely loved it. I remember cleaning it just about every weekend because mum would let me drive it around to the back of the house where the hose was. Back to the 328i. When it came up for sale I instantly fell in love with it. The m contours looked epic and were a huge upgrade over the stock 16 inch wheels. The test drive only confirmed my love. The straight six sounded mean, especially with the golf tee mod. And the steering felt massively better than the steering box in my 540i. So, I bought it. And I love it. And best of all, it didn't have any clear coat peeling, or headliner sag, or door cards falling apart. Temporary two-car garage... It certainly wouldn't beat the 540i on a drag strip, but that isn't the point. It's a cliche, but the 328i is a far more involved driving experience. While the 540i was comfortable and muscular, the 328i is peppy and engaging.

Hey guys, just recently purchased an E53 4.6is in Estoril blue over black nappa leather with Titan shadow trim! Have been looking for something bigger to roam around in especially for trips in summer & the mountains in winter. 2nd car I’ve purchased so hopefully i’ve made the right choice but I’m loving it so far. Wanted something unique and somewhat special, after doing a bit of research it seems the 4.6is’ in Estoril blue & Imola Red are the ones to get. It’s NZ new, comes with most of the service history from previous owner as he owned it for the last 10 years. Has all the original booklets, owners manual, handbooks etc & 2 keys! Has done around 180,000km’s with 2 previous owners (so the previous owner says) Have yet to go in to get it checked up but will be doing so sometime next week along with a new WOF. From what I’ve seen in the service history most of the big jobs have been done including a full replacement of the cooling system, timing chains, gaskets etc. Nothing has been noted in regards to transmission besides the usual service but it changes gears smoothly (up & down) without any jerking. Overall body condition is decent for an almost 20 year old car. Minor spots of rust due to paint chips, few scuffs on both sides of the front bumper, headlights are a little foggy & the tailgate won’t close! It seems the spring inside the mechanism has come loose & won’t latch on so I’m constantly hit with the “bootlid open” code & the interior lights on in the boot. (Turns off after 10mins or so) will be getting it sorted ASAP cause I don’t want it to drain my battery. Will keep you all updated as I get this beast up to looking factory fresh again! Looking forward to hearing any advice from people who are in more knowledge than me (so basically everyone lol). Gonna put a to do list when I’ve figured out where the cars at mechanically! Thanks for reading, stay safe & well! - B

Hello all, my E30 is new to me and am after recommendations of a good place(s) to get service work and some other mechanical things - bushings etc - done. I have heard of Auto38 in Newtown, and that is an option. I live in Silverstream so wondering if there’s anyone people would recommend in the Hutt Valley area or elsewhere if I am going to have to travel anyway? Please, and thank you 🙏

I wouldn't be so quick to write off a low KM auto either. With a stage 1 or 2 Xhp flash it makes it a very responsive transmission. Just make sure it does get serviced.

Something to consider when doing the cowl delete. The cowl panel serves the purpose of diverting the water that runs off the windscreen to the corners of the engine bay then onto the ground. Without the cowl the water runs onto the back of the engine which can then seize the engine cover bolts. If you run without the engine cover the water goes into the valley of the cylinder head damaging spark plugs, coil, injectors.

I had my N55 DCT 135i for just over 3.5 years. What a car, miss it heaps.Test drove lots of n54's before deciding and the DCT sold it for me. Agree with Kyu in saying it's not the smoothest in traffic etc but once you get used to not creeping too much in traffic it's fine. The shifts are unbelievable in sport mode. The combo of the N55 and the DCT is a true winner. From a reliability perspective, I did the usual plugs and coils etc as preventative maintenance but I had zero issues other than a leaky o-ring on a sensor on top of the gearbox. Wasn't a major but required the box to be dropped to replace. Engine was faultless. Would highly recommend one. Oh and most of them wouldn't have had a gearbox service due to the lifetime fluid crap from BMW, that made a huge difference once I did it.

I have a couple of railway sleeepers and I have angled the ends with a chainsaw. Didn't cost anything so not worried about how unsexy they are. I was aware most ramps are too steep so I just cut them on a very shallow angle.

Oh didn't know about this. I was planning to do a few more things with the M5 with Jon. @E28E30 Mike Page of Mike Page European (not Page European, that was the company he sold) at Paraparaumu is reputed to be the best BMW mechanic is Wellington. It's a bit of a drive, I only went there once for post sale inspection. Then all of my work was done by Jon of Auto 38. I know a few owners here despite Mike's location bring their cars there, Chris E46 M3 CSL from what I understand goes there on a trailer. If you want a honest and competent mechanic I use Cary Moore at Petone for my Skyline and Prado. Still a bit of a drive for me, but been using him over a decade. He isn't as obsessive as Jon, but does a good job. He doesn't do any big jobs (engine out, etc.), I think he is tired of his racing days of Skylines.

The problem I find, as mentioned above, is too many ramps are short and steep, meaning you drag the bumper on them going up and down. There are very few cars I can drive up my ramps without scraping.

If you took a survey of x number of cars, I would put money on the ones running lingpingpowsuperstones also being the ones with dripping with oil leaks and green coolant in the radiator and 91 in the tank. Whereas if the car has PS4Ss or similar on it, signficantly more likely that the previous owner gave a sh*t and had funds to properly maintain it. Its not particularly controversial and is particularly applicable to NZ BMWs, where they are cheap to buy and expensive to maintain.

The E82 are a great looking car. I would go N55 for sure and DCT over slush box, seeing as your chances of finding a manual are slim. Try and avoid the later ones with the clown sized door mirrors.

Hi Neal, Have my 04 manual done 130km insured for 45k agreed with Star Insurance via Marsh. One of their prerequisites was that they required a valuation by one of their approved values. I had this undertaken by New Zealand vehicle valuations which was to my expatation and in line with recent sales at the time (6 months ago). Cheers Brett

Realised the wife had been driving around without a WOF the past few days (was due a service mid lockdown) so gave her the keys to the E46 and took the POS through for a WOF. Failed miserably on the below: 2 x front tyres (was expecting this) / CAB's (was semi expecting this) / 2 x leaking shocks (was not expecting this - it has the trick electronic damper adjustment too...) Anyways, we are really getting over this black sack of crap - was already planning on moving it on at the start of next year and this is just cementing that (will be taking a real hit no doubt). I am going to talk her into a BMW (and probably an unreliable one!)

Looking at the pic they don't appear to have the high sides metal ramps have. Could put two together... Unless you've got bigger than a 490 on the M5?

I have a pair of massive ramps that were used as truck ramps. Really heavy, but really high and wide too. My advice is get the biggest ramps you can find. No one ever wished they got lower ramps.

Ah, that’s why you have a Fit right? 😉

Update time: Did a bit of a refresh of the Vanos + finally got round to fixing up all the errors made on the initial build. I got a donor Vanos and sent it to Dr Vanos to be rebuilt - they did a nice job. This was installed earlier in the week but the engine felt quite different and didn't seem right afterwards with flat spots where the cams switch and overall it felt sluggish. Looking at the photo's we took of the cam positions before taking the Vanos off and fitting the cam blocks it was clear the inlet cam was quite retarded compared to where it should have been. This was corrected when re-installed. I decided not to drive the car much until the tune was checked. With no MAF and oxy sensors the ECU couldn't do anything to correct what might have been wrong. The Link ECU tune I have is non-adaptive and uses just TPS, MAP, ECT and IAT so is fixed and can't adjust to any external changes. Yesterday a slot became available on the dyno today so I fitted the bigger injectors that should have been fitted originally (pink top). I also fitted a modified throttle body with 22% bigger cross-section. The intake duct was increased from 76mm to 100mm and the airbox modified to a proper 100mm diameter outlet tube and trumpet. I then sent it of for a re-tune. It was well worth it. The bigger inlet tube did not add any extra noise. Below is the dyno chart with the before and after curves. Before 263.5hp/313.5Nm, after 297.8hp/343Nm. So, I'm pretty happy with the result. The Vanos is also nice an quiet again which is another bonus.

Auto 38 has closed up. Jon & Keren will be taking on project work from Marton in the near future. If it's got to be Wellington, I can firmly recommend All European Service, in Fifeshire Ave. I had my 855-T5 and e46 Touring serviced by Peter for years before he closed up. He's recently re-opened in Te Aro. @E28E30