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Dismantled my E30 drivers seat and ‘fixed’ a few wobbles with washers and cable ties (lol) before I can get a broken tab welded - also bent bolsters back in shape - feels like a different seat even though it’s still clapped out (not for much longer). Adjusted my handbrake and identified a Leaky hose as culprit for my power steering leak. Installed a carplay unit in the F31 Then Spent $700 or so at FCP Euro on bits and bobs 😂

Broke my oil filter wrench and removed a layer of skin from my fingers trying to remove my oil filter. Had to screw driver the bastard to get it off. Oil filter 2, Logan 1. GG.

I do have a bit of hate for the Ute down these ways. Every 2nd vehicle is a Ute here. They are the fastest, best handling and most capable vehicle in the world. We call it Ranger Danger. Because you just know the one sitting 2m off your bumper in a school zone is going to pass you in a dangerous spot using all of their 1500hp and F1esk handling. It's funny because it is the behaviour that BMW drivers usually get blamed for.

NZ New 62,000km Full leather Full BMW service history Michelin pilot sports in good condition, wheels immaculate, no kerbing or damage Bought as a BMW Premium selection car from Auckland BMW end of last year. Epic car, but be warned, its pretty much like a gateway drug, you may 'need' a full blown M car after driving this.

Hi there, Up for sale is a complete e36 M3 coupe interior, electric front seats (Vaders), rear seats, bolsters, headrests, and door cards, in M-Rain fabric and Alcantara. There are no seatbelts but these are an easy exchange from your existing seats or you can pick them up from a wrecker (any e36 coupe/sedan belts will work). I will not separate the seats or the door cards but I will entertain selling the seats and door cards as separate lots although selling together is the preference. Front electric Vaders, rear seat base and split folding backs, bolsters, headrests: $1600 Front and rear door cards: $600 Everything together: $2000 Pick up only from Mount Wellington, inspections welcome by arrangement. Seats The seats are in good to very good condition with the exception of the driver’s seat which is in relatively poor condition. Given they’re 25+ years old they’ve held up well and were good enough for my car for 4 or 5 years. If you’re not going to get the driver’s seat reupholstered immediately, I’d swap the cushions with the passenger’s seat to buy some time. IIRC correctly I replaced the plastic cogs in the driver’s seat and that has full adjustment, I don’t think the seat base tilt is working on the passenger’s side but it’s set to a comfortable position and the other electrics and back fold etc work just fine. Regardless they’re sold as is. Door Cards The door cards are excellent for their age and although they have been reglued it’s been done well. The vinyl lining of some of the front pockets has delaminated and there’s a cut in one (see picture in zip file below) but this is hardly noticeable when installed. The cards themselves are in good shape with no cracks and all of the clips and brackets are intact, the clips were new about 5 years ago when I installed these on my car but it might be a good idea to have a couple spare, I can’t guarantee these. Pictures Below are some representative pictures, and here is a zip file (~150MB) with more high-res pictures. If you want additional pictures of anything specific, or have any questions, please feel free to ask.

I bought 15,000 last time. I'll be buying that again. Let them tell me I don't have a govt approved ute, or need to buy RUCs like a peasant on the bones of my arse 1000kms at a time. They're trying to put up the admin cost of the transaction to boot.

10000 can hardly be an unusual number of RUCs to buy. It's the commercial bods who are looking to acquire 12 months' of RUCs when they'd normally do t (perhaps) 3 months a a time that they're looking to catch.

It nearly always ends up not being perfect. Which will be why the pro's don't do it. A few of my old Nissans ended up having ripply guards when I went a bit to far. Good results took hours per guard and often burnt fingers from the heat gun. Most rollers you can buy are designed to only roll the edge up a little. Not flat. Flat requires panel beating and will nearly always crack the paint. You must have a good heat gun and roll in very small increments. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/repair-kits/listing/3575928793?bof=c6jO98Ug Recently I became old and look back at these sort of issues and just nope out and buy something that fits.

I've recently done the valve stem seals on my E61 and must have looked at this thread at least ten times over the last year or so while deciding whether to send it somewhere or do it myself. There was a lot of umming and ahhing over the outlay of tools vs the cost for a garage to do the work. In the end I went DIY so I thought I'd just put it out there for anyone else that's thinking about it, I got the job done for somewhere around the $1700 mark plus a week of my time, which is a big discount assuming you have the time to spare of course. Parts were around $650, shipping and exchange rate dependent of course. I got my parts for this project from FCP. On top of the valve stem seals that also included all the gaskets & o-rings etc for the valve covers, upper timing covers, spark plug tubes (I used Febi as they were much cheaper but I think I'd use BMW original next time), and spark plugs because it's so much easier to do them with the spark plug tubes out that I think every time you have the valve cover off you should change them. Tools ~$1k I had a tool up a little. Its a bit of an outlay but relative to the spend to get someone else to do it I thought it was worth it. I already had an air compressor and decided to go the air method (vs rope method). I ended up getting A N62 valve spring compression tool kit from Aus (not the AGA one) A really long (650mm I think) 1/2" drive ratchet to turn the engine over with - long enough it poked out the top of the engine bay. A cheap leak down tester to hold the air pressure in the cylinders. And I splashed out on some AGA Valve Stem Seal plyers It's worth noting that Tony's AGA Tool Rental Service delivers worldwide now, but I don't know what the cost would be for rental + return shipping but may be worth a look into too. In terms of difficulty, I agree with other peoples opinions I've seen that if you can do the valve covers you can do the valve stem seals. And I guess the final test is - would I do it again if I had to? Yes I would, especially now I have the tools.

The resurgence of Caravans. Burn them all. NZ desperately needs to introduce a towing license similar to the UK. The Hyundai SUV with 2 adults, 3 kids, a full boot, 5 bikes on a flimsy bike rack, towing a shittyly restored early 80s wheeled chode of a caravan that has had all the rest of the luggage stored at the very back is quite bloody scary to follow. Especially when you realise the driver has probably never towed anything other than a rental trailer from his local gas station to move some cuttings of which he took 10 mins trying to back up his drive and took the downpipe drain off the side of his garage.

Hahaha... did that in the E39 years ago, with a Ranger behind me... At a roundabout, I changed down to second in preparation for the exit, but didn't slow down, took the roundabout at 55km/h and booted it as I exited (only a 525i though!)... Ranger tried to follow... he mounted the footpath behind me as I blitzed off into the 80 zone 🤣 He kept some distance after😋

I think it's: "What else can you buy for $70k that will explode a gearbox this fast"

Be interesting to see the psychology behind the reactions to fuel prices... People selling their $10000 'gas guzzler' only to buy a more efficient $30k car that will take 15 years to break even on fuel costs before depreciation is factored in. My daily V6 wagon averages 8.2l/100km, takes 70ish litres to fill and I'll get around 900km on a trip. I usually do 700-800km/week. The increase in fuel price has seen me $40-50 out of pocket/week but I acknowledge I do more km than most. Not enough to break the bank and definitely not enough to make me loose my sh*t and sell my car in favour of a diesel or EV as a knee jerk reaction. I've been hankering for a decent V8 - Lexus LX570, 200 Series Land Cruiser or a Ram 1500, but simply refuse to pay the inflated prices for them (3 year old LX and Ram asking prices at or near their RRP, LC200 $20-40k more than RRP). Hopefully this increase in fuel prices hits the over inflated used car market and brings it back to what it should be.

This is the key for the 30d/35d engines. They aren't amazingly frugal if you compare to something like the 1.4TSI in the VW Golf, but you can cane them in big cars and still see single figure L/100k figures, if you did that to a V8 you might be looking at double the consumption

Depends which generation of X3, the first was not great, the F25 was pretty bloody good, the G01 is awesome. Saw an X3 M40i out drag a modded Skyline from the lights on the South Eastern last night, the Nissan nearly crashed trying to keep up.

Collected pug this morning, drove like a dream. rocked up to the office, stalled and now dead as a doorknob. LMAO.

"Please insert card OR select payment type" ... me inserts card hoping for a logical experience and quick transaction ... nothing happens ... forced to select 'EFTPOS' on stupid f**king machine just like 99.9% of ALL transactions they perform ... just liven up that sh*t straight away and make the people who want to pay with some cash, a gram of meth, some vouchers and a prezzy card push the stupid button !!! ... and then ... "Would you like a receipt ?" -> "No" ... *prepares to walk off* "Please take your receipt" ... *double back swearing at machine, throws paperwork in bin in disgust*