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Want: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/m/listing/3973307648 Want: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/other/listing/3972570033

Don't worry, she was safe and sound by the time it got gnarly!

Yeah, to the best of my knowledge. The guidelines I've read haven't been the most detailed so not sure if I interpreted it correctly but here's what I did: How it sits undisturbed How I tightened it down I think the guidance was to push it forward 5/6mm, I probably got about 4mm but the washers already started hanging off the plate so didn't want to press it any further. Hope I got it roughly right. I don't mean the gallery plug specifically. It's still a BMW, on a long enough timeline it'll revert to doing BMW things 😄 After a whole bunch of swear words and a couple of bruised & bloody knuckles, got the starter seated properly. Dropping the exhaust and driveshaft has almost become second nature at this point. Undid the trans mounts, tilted it backwards, undid all the bolts enough to get about a 5mm separation between engine and gearbox and in the starter went, smooth as butter. Getting pretty good at this now. Started 8am and had her back down on her wheels around 4pm so for once a job actually took me way less time than I thought it would. Goes quicker when you've got little furry helpers. On the downside, it looks like the seals on the rear driveshaft joint are on their way out so another issue to address somewhere down the line. The starter is back to singing its usual song, startup is smooth, lifter tick is gone and all seems to be ticking along pretty smoothly. Knock on wood. Went for a quick 40km run after dinner to keep putting some longer k's on. Such a great cruiser machine this, missed it so much. The power difference from the extra displacement as well as new bearings and rebuilt components is definitely noticeable, the power delivery is way smoother and more effortless, and as much as the 3.38 diff is a nuisance in 1st & 2nd, it makes up for it by livening up 3rd & 4th. Have a local club run to Arthur's Pass coming up in a few weeks' time, can't bloody wait. Will book in a WoF tomorrow and slowly start digging into rebuilding the brakes and rear subframe.

Fully sick E60 M5 at Countdown Albany

2012 F20 BMW M135i in Alpine White with Alcantara interior. Only 78,XXX km. No modifications. Starting price (reserve) is set at the trade price. I’d rather someone who really wants one to have it at this price rather than a dealer! Reserve = $17500 Buy now = $19500 This car has been well loved and looked after. It is in very good condition: Just back from a groom at Elite Detailing Front bumper respray in January 2023 No curbing on wheels Always serviced at Wellington European (last service November 2022) Two keys Non-smoker/vaper Features: Turbocharged 3.0-litre straight six producing 315 bhp (235kW) 0-100km/h takes just 4.9 seconds Rear wheel drive 8 speed automatic gearbox BMW M Performance brakes with slotted disks (pads and disks replaced November 2022) NZ Maps and navigation Bluetooth telephone and audio Reversing camera and parking sensors Multiple safety features Automatic headlights, wipers etc Fully electric sports seats with inflatable side bolsters Lights package and comfort access Things to note: Rear tyres have 2.5mm tread remaining Front tyres were new in May 2022 (all Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003) Minor paint blemish on passenger side door (EDIT - now removed) https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3972642175?bof=34mdzS7x

Now that im pretty happy with the exterior and handling, aside from needing some bigger swaybars, Ive made a start on the interior. The overall goal for this car is to build what is my interpretation of the 135i cs that bmw never built, so I started tearing apart the interior today for some major changes coming very soon.

We have a winner! https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3973499037 No photos, no description. Says it all.

Hey all I’ve recently returned to Masterton, NZ after 20 years working for BMW in Europe and Japan. I spent the last eight years at BMW HQ in Munich. Now I have bought and am running a panel and paint shop in Masterton called CE Spray Collision Repairs. I don’t currently have a car but I’m in the hunt for something. Any clean and tidy BMW with 6 cylinders will get my attention. Borrowing my family’s Audi S3 in the interim which is at least Bavarian. Thought I’d put up a few of my favourite company cars that i had in the last few years. There were some stunners and I really miss them. I look forward to participating in this forum. Cheers Andrew

10,000km\1 year is a good compromise for most driving assuming a good quality oil I dont what your suburban roads are like, but city driving is typically worse for engine wear as you are doing more idling\engine run time, start\stopping, low rpm driving etc. Modern diesels tend to suffer carbon build up issues from people doing this and not enough highway\higher rpm driving to help keep it clean. 80,000-100,000km is a good time to change the transmission fluid. Seems to be what manufacture ZF recommends as well 100,000km\8 years.

Given the extent you have gone to it should be a very very long time. The M54 isn't too bad for leaks in my book and most are easy fixes anyway. I bet and you got a lot of new sensors etc. It would be interesting to see a before and after engine re-build dyno. If i ever do mine in the future i think ill have to do it.

That bubbling tint though, that right there is +5 HP.

No. They have valvetronic / CCV issues as well. Just avoid unless you know exactly what you are getting yourself into. There is a reason there are so many 'my E90 320i is broken' threads on here.

Seems like a good price. In fact I would be tempted if someone would take my car off me

My iX1 is arriving 4 March!

Can’t even spell manual properly… Yes, I got the e-mails from TradeMe all four of them!

Agree with @Eagle, the valvetronic might need to be reactivated and put through the relearning process. Id suggest you download ISTA D and get a K+DCAN cable.

Taking advantage of the free listing day, but couldn't be bothered to plan to actually have any content.

Yeah, basically. Don't know how to describe it better. Not every time though, got the hang of it after a while and just applied throttle more gently, basically being a grandpa off the line. Only happened when taking off or when coasting in 2nd and start applying throttle from zero. Might just be a matter of getting used to it and the short diff. More concerningly though, figured out what the deal with the starter is - it didn't seat properly. Realised what I'd done wrong. When installing the transmission, the first thing I did was tighten up the 4 big bolts, lifted the rear of the transmission in place and bolted up the mount. Only then did I go to seat the starter in place and although the bolts (somehow) torqued up to spec, on closer look, it clearly sits at an angle, the pin at the top of the bell housing not going into the hole and pressing against the casing so the starter sat with the top tilted outward. Surprised it started up at all and luckily doesn't look to have done any real damage. What must have happened is the backing plate got tightened down just a millimeter or two out of whack. Played around with if for a good 2 hours yesterday and just cannot get it to seat even - either the bottom's in and the top pin rests against the rim or the pin is somewhat aligned and the bottom edge sticks out. Such a tight and awkward space as well, can't really see much of what you're doing and just going by feel. I guess all I can do is drop the exhaust, driveshaft again, tilting the engine back to get to the damn top bolts, crack all the bolts slightly loose and try align the backing plate properly. Can almost do it with my eyes closed at this point... Super annoying but happy to have caught it before it grenaded itself. In more positive news, how good is this? Not a single drop of fluids on the bottom covers. Taking bets on how long it remains like this 😄 Oil change done. A good amount of magnetic sludge in there, as to be expected but nothing too concerning otherwise. Another wrenchfest incoming.

Another forum member listed his 2012 F20 m135i in the 'for sale' section. Might be worth having a look.

Willkommen in der Heimat!

I seldom see these 135s in white on the road. Good luck with the sale.

Kicked off the reassembly straight after work yesterday and couldn't stop myself until it was all put together... at 4am. Despite mustering up just the 3 hours, didn't manage to stay asleep past my usual 7am so got up and went for a drive. Did the steering angle sensor calibration with BMW Scanner which cleared the trifecta lights from the dash. Only annoying light that remained was the fuel level warning... Did some varied driving, slow bits around the neighbourhood at first followed by a scenic ride through Sumner - Governor's Bay - Dyers Pass. Did a bunch of gentle rolling pulls from 2k to 4k RPM and coast down to 2k, then hit some hilly-twisty bits, frequently stopping to check for leaks and temps. Clocked up just over 100km. The car starts up fine but the starter seems to make a different sound than what I can remember, bit of a higher pitched whirring noise with a slight rattle. The last startup I did when checking for leaks I forgot that I hadn't put the flywheel on the night before so it spun over freely without and load for about a second. Don't know if that would have done anything but hope it didn't stuff it. The starter itself was from I believe 2012 so was replaced at some point, I took it apart, checked that the brushes were still good and lubed it up so does function as it should. Not sure what the issue might be but will monitor it. When removing the gearbox, it got caught on the sound deadening fabric and ripped it a bit so it could just be the extra noise coming through. The engine feels super solid, got more used to the gearbox as the drive went on. Power feels good and effortless, idle is smooth but had a couple of patches of grumbling when sitting still at lights. The gearbox still feels lurchy / jittery at times in 1st & 2nd. Even when not changing gear but, for example, going over railway lines all the way in second, it starts lurching when getting back on the power. Hopefully it goes away as the clutch beds in properly. The 3.38 diff probably doesn't help either, first gear is virtually useless, definitely not sticking with it long-term. Otherwise, absolutely buzzing to have gotten to this point. Small gremlins aside, the car is an absolute joy to drive, tracks nice and straight, the ride is smooth, and it'll only get better from here as I kick on with refurbing the rear subframe, suspension, brakes, wheel bearings etc. Thanks to everyone that's chimed in with advice and encouragement along the way. Special shout out to @Eagle who's been a massive help throughout. Absolute legend mate. Probably overkill this soon but will do a quick oil change and do another 500km with the running in oil. Will take the bottom covers back off and give everything a once-over whilst I'm at it but nothing seems to be leaking past them so far anyway. Happy days.

I think a couple of Auckland E30 owners took advantage of the situation to do a few skids… @Sammo Fingers crossed it didn’t end badly for any, there was certainly a lot of crazy sh*t going down here last night!

Distance travelled has more effect on the wear than age, and 90k travelled is well in the range of use. Having seen how most people seem to drive on NZ roads, especially the Akl motorways, right up people’s arse on and off the brakes constantly it’s surprising they last more than five minutes. If this 4GC has the sports brakes (2NH blue callipers) then they do wear a bit quicker from the increased bite. Might also explain the higher than expected replacement costs.

I cant speak to the solid bushes, however the whole rear end of mine is PU and I noticed very minimal change in NVH.

Valvetronic motor and sensor are the most common failure points but there are others. You'll need someone whos what they are doing to test\diagnose it properly. Otherwise you just have throw parts at it and hope. Also the right scan tool to re-calibrate the system it depending on what's replaced. It will probably cost 1\2 the cars value to fix if you are paying someone. Id just sell the car, they have too many problems.