M3AN

Possibly the wrong thread by I did Auckland -> Hamilton on Friday. Left Ellerslie at 14:17 and arrived in Hamilton CBD at 15:47, torrential rain, roadworks, single lanes and all. I was pleasantly surprised considering I'd just read the roadworks post above about 2 hours before leaving. Never exceeded the posted limit (including 70) by more than 10km/h. Although I will say that if people aren't confident driving in the wet then pulling over is a better option than driving 60km/h in a 100km/h zone. You're not on slicks buddy.

Where can we buy from BBS direct? That would be nice.

Duh, I can't tell my left from my right! Will do.

Yep, they have some nice kit... If you're going to make an order let me know, I wouldn't mind 4 x http://www.fmw-tuning.de/exterieur/bbs-wheels-accessories/bbs-ventilcap-09-15-063-for-rubber-valve.html Might be able to make an arrangement.

There's a laugh or cry in there somewhere.

I probably shouldn't ask, might lead me down a path of temptation... how does the right rear half shaft look? If the shaft's not a bent mess how much for the complete diff?

They look much better @BM WORLD.

Engine needs to be running to check oil level? Sounds ingenious.

What specifically do you need? Chuck "BBS" into the search box here: http://www.fmw-tuning.de/index.php?language=en That's where I got my stuff.

Questions for seller: 1. When you stopped was there 6 litres of oil on the road behind you? How far behind you? 2. Does "on road costs included" mean "drive away"? Might be worth the 10k! Question for you all: Why, in today's day and age with modern electronics etc, doesn't a low oil pressure warning force the car into limp mode, instantly start reducing available power and force the rev limit (eventually) down to 0. Would be trivial to implement in software.

The 328 has started overheating recently (in traffic mainly but more worryingly on the occasional normal drive) and I finally had some time to take a look. Waterpump, thermostat, housing, radiator and hoses were all replaced about 10 months ago and the system is holding pressure and fluid. Clutch fan is fine. Jumped the temp sensor, high speed fan working, low speed relay clicks but no fan. High speed alone should be sufficient to prevent temps climbing but I replaced the low speed relay. Both speeds now working when jumped. Fan still doesn't activate as temps climb. Likely temp sensor/switch failure I suppose. How much coolant will likely pour out when I remove the sensor (assuming I shove the new one right in)? Pity I threw out the bung that came with the rad. Will probably get a low temp switch unless that's a dumb idea for some reason?

In that case, see here: https://www.schmiedmann.com/

Fair enough, although I don't think you'll even get the paint for $200 unless you use rattle cans! If you're getting the tyres off yourself also call GT Refinishers in Penrose, they also do wheels and gave me a competitive paint only option and came recommended. I can't recall sorry if they'd also fix the curbing (may outsource it and clip the ticket). Arrow as Glenn mentions above are also recommended. You can also skip the balancing if you like (and then use weights once you have tyres on). Of course even balanced you need to use weights to compensate for tyre variation but I also wanted the wheels themselves true and balanced and that cost a bit extra because they have to spin them up (often more than once) during the process of fixing them. I think the best price I ever got for "back to new condition" was $200 per rim. I ended up paying $300 each and given the balancing, type of paint, centre caps and extra clear coat I got added I'm pretty sure I'd struggle to do better. Good luck and keep us posted, they're nice rims.

$1200 including the 4 (BBS RC) centre caps. Full chemical strip, remove curbing, balance, prep, paint and clear. The paint I liked was quite expensive, I think it was an extra $50 a wheel. I didn't get the barrels painted. It could have been less expensive if I was prepared to dick around more. Some places would do it but I had to get the tyres on and off, other places would paint them if I got the curbing done first, others required me to have the stripped before they'd prep and paint. Too much effort. I just wanted a simple equation to get them done. Stoked with the result.

Like this? http://www.wheelfixit.co.nz/ was the only place i could find that offered a complete one-stop-shop service from on the car to back on the car.

It's not the change per-se, it's the plummet in functionality (no BB Code or raw post editing) that's the problem. Sure, we get used to it but that doesn't make it suck less. It also encourages the exact behaviour that rag-top (rightfully) deplores. I post less, I quote less and and don't even bother with complex formatting or quoting any more. Might just be me. That might even suit some people lol.

This new forum software makes any type of reply painful. I'm not surprised people don't bother editing quotes, it's a crap shoot.

I'm afraid this forum software is terrible so I can't quote you properly. Go to here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin= and type in the last 7 characters of your VIN and then see if you can find a picture that matches your car, that might help (I guessed). I'm not sure if you've done anything wrong, it's just too difficult to tell with photos. However, even if a gasket (especially a high pressure one) looks fine it may not be working as expected. It's not clear to me if you installed a brand new gasket? What torque is expected to tighten the bolts?

They're really good IMHO, I've used them on a number of occasions. Often at the top of my list.

Do you think #6 in this link has failed? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BE22-EUR-09-1997-E36-BMW-316i&diagId=11_6110 BMW will sell you one, shouldn't be expensive. Removing the fan clutch without the tool can be done with a long screwdriver and a mallet, check youtube for heaps of examples. The tool is useful if it's really seized on though.

I know the 328i ones also have the alignment arrow but I'm not sure if that helps you?

Unless you're a business then it's still under CGA warranty, why not give them a call?

^ fair enough.

That's is good, perhaps with the exception of duct tape. Surely there are M3/CSL parts available that would allow you to mount them properly? Could be cost prohibitive I suppose.

Great example Martin. Could have picked up an air cooled Porsche in 1995 for ~$30k. Same one is now >$130k. NSX? $40k - now ??? 22B? As low as $30k - can't even fine them now but $100k+ Add E30 M3 - 2001 ~$35k... 16 years on...