M3AN

Yep, I saw that post but free is better! You home tonight? I would like to get that sorted.

You'll need to specify whether you need a sunroof headliner or not. Full glass out respray will be in the order of $6k gulp!

Since you're both on this thread: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-M3-3-2L-S50B32-321PS-Nocken-Nockenwellen-Einlas-Auslass-Zylinderkopf-/400698116926 http://www.ebay.com/itm/original-BMW-E36-M3-3-2L-S50-Nockenwellen-Einlass-und-Auslassnockenwelle-/142128523032 And if you want to keep an eye on eBay in Germany: Nocken = Cams Nockenwelle = Camshaft Nockenwellen = Camshafts Exhaust = Auslass

I wonder what they call "big mods"? “The changes made on the car are not that advanced really. It has a supercharger..."

Cheers Jo, yes sorted now - was a matter of bleeding it fully. I flushed the new radiator with a garden hose for some time before I installed it so was pretty sure the passageways were clear and fortunately it did get hot!

So, this is now sorted and she's officially a "daily" now. Was a matter of getting the system properly bled, there was air remaining in the system. Love the self bleeding system on the M3, this manual system sucks balls. But I'm there now, heater blows hot and the temp gauge doesn't budge from centre. New synthetic oil and filter to match also done this weekend as well as a wash, she's looking as good as she's going to get I think (aka pretty average). Fuel and spark seem fine but I'll check them out over time. Idle is perfect and pull is what I'd expect for a slush-box. So far $2,500 in and pretty happy. Trans oil and filter next, Glenn's on my list for a call this week and if the price is right I'll get his guys to do that for me.

I didn't test the thermostat (and now recall reading about boiling it!) but I think it's the latter, an air-lock of sorts. These things are a PITA to bleed! Now on the second attempt and 20 mins in, with engine at temp, I still have air bubbles and no hot air in the cabin. I've even elevated the front of the car so the bleeder hole is the highest point. Squeezing hoses and all. Attempt 3 when she's cooled down again.

lol - yes, thanks - fan runs off the pump of course.

Will report back but not sure I'll learn much, the stuff that came out was awful. Mineral or semi-synth at best. I flushed about a litre of the good stuff down the oil filter housing and through the engine until it came out gold but that's hardly a proper engine flush. I should probably drain it all again in 1000 km's and replace the filter again to give her a fresh(ish) start but that's another $100 and not sure of the gains. Perhaps if the Penrite is on special again at around that time I'll do it.

Yep. Once you find that spring (and you'll need to for obvious reasons) then do all assembly and disassembly of the pump disk in a plastic bag so when (not if) the springs fire out you catch them in the bag. To assemble do two opposing springs and pistons, assemble that in the ring then, with the ring holding those two in, spin the disk a little in the ring to expose the two remaining hole and then fit the springs and pistons to those. Good luck! Need those tools?

10 litres of this stuff is currently on special at Repco for $90 which is pretty sharp. Just loaded the 328i up with it.

Right so "finished" the cooling system today and something's not right: Warms up to temp in good time and holds in the middle of the gauge whilst idling Check control is fine No hot air to mention from heater (first sign something is amiss) Within 300m of driving temps start to rise fast and car need to be stopped Check control now says to check coolant level Coolant level is fine once it's cooled down enough to check Clutch fan seems fine System isn't leaking New radiator, thermostat, thermostat housing, water pump, hoses. So something ain't right. Any ideas?

Nice of you to trim before you flash, that's just polite. But shaving is much less painful and a lot faster than plucking!

No, they all do it from the factory, it's normal. Theories abound but the prevailing suggestion is that it was designed into the car to compensate for a driver sitting in a LHD vehicle. General consideration is that it makes no difference but if you want to corner balance the car you'll need to use 15mm spring pads in the rear and 10mm pads in the front on the right hand side.

Double glazing doesn't make windows "bullet proof".

Sweet, I'm out tonight though.

It's actually surprising how much people want for 318's! Because BMW.

Donor doesn't have a working 11 button OBC does it?

Bring it round to my place mate, I'll do that and the VANOS test for free.

I have some floor mats in less than showroom condition you can pick up from Ellerslie for free.

Well, I'm using the equivalent kit from UUC on my 3.2 and according them they fit: * E36 M3/328/325/318 (all except Ti/Compact) 1992-1999 Well, everything except the Compact...

Two intake cams, interesting, never heard of that. They're very similar in profile but that's where my knowledge runs out. I think timing is one thing (probably the simple thing) but then I'm sure some tuning would be required? Unless you know who did the original work I'd think changing back to stock and proceeding from there would be the safest route. Others may have a different opinion? Is it throwing any codes? Does it pass the VANOS test in DIS?

Ahh, nothing is easy with aftermarket. I had to tap the temp sensor threads all the way though, something wasn't right with them and I had to buy a damn 14x1.5 tap to do it. Spending $45 on a single use tool is a bit of a kicker but net-net the rad + tap still came out less expensive than the rad would have cost me from the shop. Still, it's going to require some PTFE tape to seal. Also had to trim down the fan cowl to clear the welds on the alu rad that aren't there on the stock one but this was pretty easy and only a few mill's in a few places to get it flush. But finally it was good enough to start the car and commence the flush. All sorts of terrible came out, wouldn't drink it for sure, just rusty water plus the flushing agent and tap water I pored in over 20 mins. Next up thermostat housing back off, thermostat in, fan on and fill her up. Distilled water is on special at New World this week also, $6 for 10l so bonus. Might be driving it next week! Famous last words? lol. NB: when I pulled the transmission cooler pipes out I was very lucky to notice the o-rings were perished (they were stuck in the sockets). I picked up 4 new ones from BMW and installed two up front. When I get the trans oil and filter replaced I'll get them to install the two rear o-rings (into the actual gearbox) as well. BMW charge more than $4 per o-ring...

Put the new radiator in the 328 and hooked everything up loosely and without the thermostat, flushed all the filth out of the system with tap water and a flushing agent. It was disgusting. So, hopefully by the end of next weekend will have the thermostat and fan back in, everything tight and a new coolant system.