M3AN

Strong money for a mish-mash, restore to original would be ~$10-12k so add that to the asking price for proper value. Yes @KwS, CSL console (or rep).

We gave away many more rights than they told us we would when they introduced 'no cause' stops... https://communitylaw.org.nz/community-law-manual/chapter-32-driving-and-traffic-law/enforcement-powers-of-police-and-parking-wardens/police-their-traffic-enforcement-powers/ Note that the enforcement powers apply to anyone in the vehicle, not just the driver.

I like the look of this one (auto), especially with the brown leather. F+R PDC and sunroof, reasonable price to negotiate around and a fair excuse to take a trip up north. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/3213307965

Regardless of what spec they used the last column is an absolute number so safe to read. You can't do anything about front caster (without adjustable plates) and caster is also a product of camber (i.e. it will change as camber changes). You have positive front camber which, whilst not "bad" (in small amounts such as here), it's not considered ideal for a car that needs to go around corners. Dialling in a little -ve camber should be easy, I'd want to know why they couldn't/didn't do that.

So good.

Headlight washers common on NZ new? Really? I've seen very few NZ news with Xenons to be honest, I could probably say the same about headlight washers. Talk about getting the priorities wrong. I've never seen an import without Xenons, that's usually how I first identify NZ new.

The only one on TM without Xenons sure, but 99% of NZ new came without them... although most came with PDC and this has it F+R... probably a gauge of how sh*t NZ drivers are (at parking and driving). I suppose if you need PDC you probably don't drive much at night anyway... BMW NZ logic.

Nice one, I'm sure you'll enjoy, I never use the shift stick to change gears any more, only to put it in sport mode. 👍

@IainR - Check out this video:

And since you're there @IainR, here's the message I sent them about their incorrect instructions when I installed mine, I just checked and it doesn't look like they've update them... 🙄

I can't recall the connectors precisely but don't they have a little latch arm you push down inside the actual plug to allow the connector to slip out? In the first picture above you can see the bare metal metal connectors (inside the plug), if you use the end of a paper clip (or needle if a paper clip is too large) can you depress the bare metal bit closest to the fingers in that pic, which is acting as a latch (in my recollection) which in turn releases the whole thing to slide out? IIRC it's a pretty common connector type so if you've used one before hopefully you'll get my explanation. If you're sure it's not that type then I can have another think!

Looks so good. ^^^

My mate didn't even need to send back the (street) brake pads he destroyed in 5 laps at Hampton, he just sent FCP pictures of them and they sent him new ones, no questions asked and no shipping fees either. I was floored. Send them the pics, pretty sure they'll see you right. Now, having said that, some of that damage doesn't seem like it comes from folding alone? I got a rear window seal for my M3 from FCP and it came rolled up which was no problem.

Well that's different... https://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/125916211/buy-this-offroad-bmw-z4-m-before-we-do https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2007-bmw-z4-m-coupe-76/

Steering rack should also be worth something to an e36 or e46 owner.

S52 is US spec only (S52B32) and completely incompatible with the S50B32 ("Euro") M3 engine (S52 is single VANOS for a start). If you're looking for a US head you're better off asking on Bimmerforums I would think, likely to be rarer here than a genuine S50 head.

I hope you get a quick sale for asking price. I think your conundrum is that without at least a LVV inspection the potential buyer also has no idea of time and cost involved, that will make an informed decision impossible. Yes, you might find somebody that's prepared to tear it up and take a risk without a cert but that's going to be a Facebook market that will probably drive you spare with tyre kickers. And will take more of your time than a clean sale. I wonder if you might be able to find a LVV certifier who would be prepared to do a once-over for reasonable money to identify potential risk areas and approximate costs? $350 (guessing) spend on that might provide the comfort a potential buyer needed. But I'm spit balling there, no idea if that's even practical. I'm advised that certifiers are now even checking HT bolts, 8.8 vs 10.9 etc... 😲 Edit: I stopped a simple seat replacement project in my M3 (with genuine Recaro seats and mounts) because it was going to be $1.5k cert. 🤨😯

Very good work. It will need a cert so why wouldn't you do that before trying to sell? It's unlikely somebody is going to buy something this nice as a track hack so a cert is an almost certainty. I have the same question for anyone not willing to cert a road car before selling... what do you know that might surprise a potential buyer? Certs are an expensive PITA these days, it's truly caveat emptor.

Yes, that obvious to me but that the buyer wasn't sure before purchase?!? All's well that ends well and it's purdy.

That's a good looking car, nice work! 😲 That's a lot of money to spend without knowing if it was a genuine M3 or a fettled 328! But of course it's RHD so not a US model. I couldn't sell mine in 2008 for $17k... sort-of glad now...

No, since moved on (a few years back), not sure where he went or what he's doing now.

Then don't worry too much about the front 0.6mm toe variance (which, let's be honest is a pretty small margin), car and wheels are going straight. Proper alignment shops, such as RaceAlign, will prioritise thrust angle over individual wheel toe values.

How close to 0 degrees is the thrust angle?

I think anything other than stock looks naff. There are these type: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/exterior/listing/3191005377 but I just don't think they suit the e36. Second hand units are available for ~$60-80 a side and they should be fine if all the clips are in place. You can get a replacement gasket for them and polish the glass if need be.

Ahh, good point, can't really have one without the other. Genuine M1 performance after all!