M3AN

I didn't even think all that stuff was available in 2006. Namely active steering and adaptive Xenons.

Appears to be, yes...

Yeah, saw that one and agree. I think that brown interior (with black plastics) would go great with that colour.

That trim has come up well, props. I'd suggest your "plan B", should the new trim not match, paint it with the same paint. You've done a good enough job on the stuff you have to convince me that it would work.

Not in Welly but if you run out of options (or have none), happy to ship mine for the cost of return shipping. Edit: I didn't suggest this initially because it's just a target for criticism here on BS but you don't need a torque wrench for this, 30nm is "pretty tight", not loose and not RFT, just "pretty tight".

As it turns out @Ghost Chip, I actually have 1/4" and 1/2" drives, not a 3/8" 🙄 So, in summary, I've not missed the 3/8"!

1/4 is very handy, for a home mechanic I've never needed anything bigger than 3/8, might be different if you're working on tractors. I'd say the gap between 1/4 and 1/2 is probably too wide, heaps of stuff you'll want to to will be somewhere between their capabilities whereas the 3/8 can get right up there. Mine a very middling Kincrome from Bunnings (or Mitre 10, can't remember) and they're fine for what I need, if I were to replace them I'd probably step up a grade to Teng to match the result of my tools... but I don't see needing t replace them in a hurry. Edit: I wrote mine before Graham posted and I wasn't directly refuting his comments on 1/4. Nevertheless, 1/4 is very handy for smaller stuff like VANOS and for getting into tight spaces.

Ahh, it wasn't obvious from your first post that it was a couple of hundred metres, that's a reassuring clarification.

Wait, were the lights and sirens on and she just kept driving? Not sure what to make about parking in a disability spot, or how that's relevant, I assume she has a mobility card.

FWIW it seems like Repco are delivering these for free. At checkout I had two choices, click and collect or courier for ~$7.50 - I chose click and collect because a Repco is 150m from my front door. I didn't expect to be able to collect it until L3 and that was fine. I got an email this morning saying it was ready for collection but not to come until I received a SMS advising me to do so. I've just received a tracking number from NZ Post saying that the item has been collected for delivery... I bet the van will drive past my house on the way to the depot.

I'm also using RE003's and for the first time. I'm quite impressed with them actually. F: 225/40/18, R: 255/35/18

Yes, it's simply a matter of interest, you might not be interested, that's cool too. How much might a battery cost if it were damaged in an accident is quite relevant to the economics of owning one of these, or indeed any electric/hybrid car. I'm sure there are other scenarios that have nothing to do with the length of the warranty. I also imagine that if they're expensive to replace, as I think we can all assume they are, that insurance premiums will probably reflect that. So yeah, it would be good to know what replacement batteries cost, it's a reasonable question.

Yes, I have one, it's in the kit linked above. Mine looks like your photo, not the one posted earlier though, not sure if they're the same thing. They're great because I hardwired mine into the M3's engine bay and it just sits there, plug and play charging plus instant health/level monitoring. Edit: the standard 5 amp CTEK doesn't come with one, only the bundle. The rubber edge case is also excellent for protecting surfaces from bumps.

Yep, I get that scenario, spread over a long enough period the total cost may be okay. But of course we currently expect cars to last more than (for example) 15 years. My 130 is currently 11 years old, my M3 is 25, I expect them both to last much longer. And then there are other scenarios such as a crash, what happens if a battery is irreparably damaged 5 months after dropping $200k on a silly looking SUV? And, although I've yet to get my head around it, I'm sure there will be implications for various lease and buyback arrangements. This isn't a problem unique to BMW, or even batteries (think carbon fibre monocoque chassis vehicles), but I'm still keen to know what BMW charges for replacement batteries.

Interesting, how does that work? Replace the cigi lighter port in the trunk?

You answered your own question, in consecutive sentences. What do the BMW replacement batteries cost, however they come?

A "more economical" fix is relative, it could still be exorbitant and uneconomic. What's the replacement cost for the batteries (or modular packs)? BMW must know that already, is it published anywhere do you know? I'd consider any claim about the economics of it dubious unless the numbers are out there for public scrutiny. Without that data it's a futile calculation. I'm betting "uneconomical" is the answer, call me a sceptic if you like.

I certainly only consider my 328 memorable for all the wrong reasons. 😂 Doesn't mean I didn't love it for what it was. My 130 on the other hand is a hoot.

Nice car... try and find a way to save your pics with a jpg or png file format (rather than heic), it will make them easier for all of us to view. And welcome Nick! 🙂

How long after the warranty finishes will the batteries start to rapidly degrade? And I bet they're "uneconomic" to replace. Not suggesting that's any different to other brands but it's a big risk to take, especially when these reach the second hand market. Edit: and yes, it's ugly as Dante's spawn.

Wow, my 130i is better in every imaginable way (okay, except perhaps visibility but I got used to that) than my 328i was, by leagues. But maybe I just didn't care as much about the 328 because I have an e36 M3? 🤷

lol - I thought the same thing when the pics were posted. 😂

Back up for $139, jump in, I just picked up a second. https://www.repco.co.nz/en/globes-batteries-electrical/battery-chargers-jump-starters-leads/battery-chargers/ctek-battery-charger-with-bonus-power-bank-and-accessories-40-358/p/A6115831

It appears as if the change was 09/2009 and the newer units are not a direct swap: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=UD52-EUR-10-2010-E87N-BMW-130i&mg=51&sg=07&diagId=51_7667&q=51167282089 But that could just be a coding issue. Older mirrors are a dime-a-dozen so it probably wouldn't be an expensive exercise to try out. You can probably also get aftermarket replacement mirror caps for the new ones, as I have for the old ones.

Cracking deal, will see if they are happy to do both of mine.