M3AN

That's just ridiculous, nobody would ever buy a Le Mans Blue 130i sight unseen at auction. Ever. 🤨 😂😇

You need G48 coolant, it doesn't need to be BMW branded, they don't add any magic to the mixture.

Repco also sell the supercars stuff, I doubt SuperCheap will restock it now that their relationship with Supercars is over (they don't have it online, may be some shelf stock though). https://www.repco.co.nz/en/oils-fluids/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/castrol-edge-synthetic-10w-60-engine-oil-5l-3412396/p/A1304624 But wait for it to go on special if you can, it's regularly offered for ~40% off which makes a huge difference. But also this: "Anything 10w60 as long as it is from a reputable brand and fully synthetic?"

I wasn't really concerned with your comment, I was just checking, hoping to avoid conflict.

I'm assuming you didn't take my post seriously... 🤨

And fender flares!

I like them, different look to what you'd normally see but I think it works well. 👍

Agreed, it's a wonder how that happens with so few miles on the clock... parked in the sun all day for 15 years perhaps? Yet you see some with well over 100k and they look very tidy indeed.

An aggressive price for a low km auto (58k/8k)... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/3328440483 And a stupid price for a low km auto (54k/15k)... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/3328367392 I do wonder what people think when they post some of these.

if none of the above works out for you send me a PM, I have the necessary software and connectors. We'd obviously need to work within the current lockdown constraints.

Lucky for some, Auckland City BMW continue to ignore my car. Great brand ambassadors they've turned out to be, Munich would be delighted I'm sure!

Still stunned BBS and/or Enkei/OZ Racing haven't (successfully?) sued them to be honest. They are popular partially because they're well made and partially because it's the cheapest way to get a quality rep on your car if that's the look you want. They do seem to have gone balls-in with all of the offsets and dish they offer, in some cases to the point of ridiculousness in my mind. Nevertheless, they're well-regarded wheels.

The Estoril one that was up for $40k in July last year went for $37k in less than 24 hours, he probably would have got 40 if he could be bothered waiting. That one was in good all-round condition and that's about where I think the price sits today for one that ticks all the boxes... nothing recent ticks as many boxes as that one and the prices need to be reduced to reflect that if they actually want to shift them.

Get M3 ones, you'll need an alignment afterwards but if your existing ones are shot then any replacement would likely require an alignment. The TRW ones, which are actually BMW ones, will probably cost you less than replacing the bushings in your existing ones. The M3 front lower control arms add camber which is a good thing. https://babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=109115

The physical antenna simply unscrews (and you can replace it with a stubby one for aesthetic reasons if you wish). The base itself needs to be unbolted from inside the car and you probably need to remove the headliner for that (PITA). It may be possible to unhook the rear of the headliner and reach in there but you'll be working blind I'd imagine.

Damn, I'd find it very difficult to sell that car Sam.

Fancy new LVV tag that is! Mine's a boring metal plate. Probably why cert costs have gone up so much.

You may need to drill them out, some are spot welded in place and you can knock them out, others are moulded as part of the top mount and need drilling (mine did). Essentially that's the difference between a 1 minute job and a 5 minute job on each side, assuming you have a good drill and bit.

Perhaps a little less than I'd expect with M3 LCA's but nothing that would cause concern, have you done the camber pin mod also? That front toe is safe but not sharp, it's a very relaxed setting that will allow high speed cruising without too much effort. If you want to sharpen up the feeling, and turn in, at the expense of increased understeer at the apex, then a small amount of front toe out (-ve toe) will make a dramatic difference. Some people hear "understeer" and yell "oh no" but that just means they don't understand. This will only ever come into play when you're tyres are already squealing and only at the very apex of a turn, a circumstance that can be 100% countered with trail braking, if you ever encounter it in the first place (and you shouldn't on the road because it means you're a hair's breadth, or a small pothole, from the ditch). Also, make sure you have good tyre pressures, nothing less than 36psi up front (on 18's, probably more on 17's), under-inflation will create a vague feeling. For reference, and I'm not suggesting this is perfect for everyone, here's an (expensive) corner-balanced alignment on my 130i from Race Align, camber pin mod, M3 control arms, M3 front sway bar (although that matters naught for an alignment) and I love it. Note the front toe (rear toe is also about the minimum required to prevent wander).

I thought the post that has just been deleted was hilarious. Much want...

Yes, the stock 130 motorsport suspension is downright dangerous on b roads at speed IMO, a mid-corner bump when you're leaning on it can shift the back end out disconcertingly. The stock bumpstops, referred to by BMW as an "additional damper" in this application, comes in to play very early, it's far too long. You can either cut a section out of the centre of the stock bumpstops and glue them back together or "upgrade" to BMW Performance bumpstops which are shorter. No aftermarket suspension that I'm aware of has this characteristic. Steering feel could be a number of things, the weight distribution of the cars, relative to the location of the rack, will be different and it wouldn't surprise me if the 3er had more castor since they have a little more space to play with. How much toe (+/-) are you running up front on the 130?

I must admit I'm quite impressed with the RE003's I've put on the 130, I'd never used them before and got a recommendation on here. Mine are 18's and cost about $1200. Now, I was also not unhappy with the Pirelli DragonSports I had on the 328 relative to the price. They were reasonably noisy but a very solid tyre for what they're designed to do and just over $220 each IIRC.

16k? 🤨 A mint manual isn't worth that. And even with those miles a 10 year old car still needs 10 year old maintenance.

Ahh... I see. I wonder if that is better or worse than no spare at all (assuming non-runflats)?

Not sure if there's such a thing as "wrong" style but I think they're 261's which were a factory option for the 130's, standard on the 135's. The blue one I shouldn't have purchased came on them.