M3AN

You can't rely on any of the codes you're getting if you have a known faulty unit in the chain. Edit: you may be able to code out CA and disconnect the unit, I'm not sure.

In my experience PPI's are expensive and tell me little more than I could assess myself. I admit that the value goes up the less you can check yourself but you always have a CGA backstop, as inconvenient that might be. Even as little as asking the seller to get a new WoF at the local VTNZ is probably enough assurance for most. Happy to schedule a plug in and opinion if you hope you've found the right car.

CAS module is in the front of the car (https://www.bimmerscan.com/media/Docs/CAS_r.pdf) not the rear, hence my question about PDC. The description you posted in the image above appears to be incorrect.

I don't think this is bad advice, especially if you're not a home mechanic, but the value is pretty low. These are very mechanical cars, checking suspension, bushes, rust and leaks is all that's needed other than a quick fault code scan to look into the electronics. I can scan an e36 for an interested buyer for free if you're in Auckland and can work in with my schedule.

SOLD.

They're great looking wheels IMHO, but I'm biased! Your staggered wheels are pre-LCI wheels, the LCI rears were 8.5J. GLWS

Cross check Kelvin's site with spareto.com, I recently imported four rotors from them and it was cost effective compared to other options I checked.

@qube - interesting array of messages... Does the car actually have comfort access (cool if it does)? Does it have PDC? If it has PDC then that might the the "CA control unit" they're referring to... not sure. If it is then I suspect if you replace that (~$350 used) then the rest of the problems may magically disappear... the problem is you won't know until you try. https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=754683 Very common problem. Because the errors you're getting are all electronic and cover an array of unrelated systems then my suspicion would be a single faulty module spazzing out the others.

Hi Steve, sorry for the delay in replying... "technical problems". Yep, parcel shelf is still available. Cheers.

Ordered replacement glass from Ali on 30 Jan... it arrived today. 😮. Pre-COVID stuff was taking 10 days... Anyway, I got L+R heated glass for $15 including shipping and, believe it or not, it's actually good quality (or so it seems). No distortion in the reflection and proper wide-angle extremities. Not sure on the heating elements but they only kick in at 3*C so irrelevant for Auckland.

OMG it's ^ so BIG! 🤣

Frequently. Whenever I want or need more aggressive shifting, rev hold to redline or manual mode that doesn't automatically revert to Drive. The standard mode on the box does none of those things. My trans has been flashed though and is very aggressive in Sport mode, your experience may be different.

What happened to the post from Autoport themselves? It seemed genuine and helpful.

If it's going to be inside and not blown around you can also use some polystyrene wrapped in terrycloth or microfibre as standoffs on the horizontal surfaces to allow for a little breathability which is good for humidity control and moisture release. A lot of indoor covers aren't breathable.

Sam can talk to the experts at Autolign about my advice, that's where I got it from after all, and it's proven to be spot on. Those exact (not random) settings work fine on an E36 and an E87 with different geometries, if they're not suitable for an E46 then the guys at Autolign will point that out. If you know better then do your theoretical calculations and throw down some numbers, otherwise you're not really helping to progress the discussion. FWIW @Sammo I had 3 different alignments on my M3, OEM settings (toe in F/R), 0 toe F/R, and then finally toe out (F) and toe in (R) and the differences were appreciable. I also have perfectly normal tyre wear with the suggestion I made above.

A small amount of toe out at the front for turn-in, stability compensation provided by a comparable (50%-100%) amount of toe-in at the rear. We're talking tiny margins here, ~0.6mm front and ~0.4mm rear. Edit: this will result in a marginal increase of on-the-limit mid-corner understeer, hardly a problem in most circumstances.

Remember to change your passwords and enable 2FA if you had a Ubiquity account pre-Jan 11 this year. https://krebsonsecurity.com/tag/ubiquiti-breach/

Okay, so you want aftermarket M3 front guards for a non-M3 e46 sedan?

🙄

No, that's just silly. Bimmersport is that "club", we're all in it already, there's nothing to hide. Let's be honest, the news will get out anyway. Just as pointless as "call me for a price" responses to WTB posts, it's just wasting everyone's time.

As a matter of interest (rather than doubt), why so thick?

Any reason for the secrecy?

I have no idea but I'm interested to find out! My guess, if it's in good condition is "a fair few pennies"! Any rust? Have you been in behind the arch liners and sills? How is the engine bay looking, interior wear? Need pics.

E36, E90 or Fxx?

Screw, don't nail, the ply on. That's all I can add to the above.