M3AN

Well, the consensus opinion of owners, observers and journos alike is that they're quite underrated. Doesn't mean everyone has to like them though. ?

I tend to agree actually. My dilemma (first world problems) is that the tyres have miles left in them so no incentive to change wheels on that front. I'm not sure if I want to go to 18's simply from a cost and comfort perspective and the only other wheels I have are the 17" black BBS ones pictured above (I prefer the stock rims) and a couple of sets of 17" style 24's in various widths (not sure how they'd fit/look). I think 17's look fine on these cars tbh. I actually like the look of the stock 18" style 208's... but then I'm presented with my original dilemma ...

But this thread is about 130's... ?

Load-through is terrible on the e36... can't even get my push bike in. No problems with the 130... and no e36 sedans had folding rear seats did they?

No, I haven't but seeing your recent post in the other thread made me think I should do so. I'm about to go out and play with Carly, let's see if I can configure Torque for a timed run.

Surely you'd bet on that being a mistake. BMW NZ and their dealer network are complete rip-offs yes, but I'm sure $13k for a headliner can't be right.

I agree with Kyu, they're fine but nothing special. We've seen manuals go recently for a lot less that that... you'd save money flying out of town to get one then driving it back. I wouldn't pay more than about $12-$13k max for a stock manual minter now and I'd want to pay a lot less than $13k tbh. As for the recent noise around 130's @Herbmiester, @Palazzo - I think the recent uptick in Bimmersport owners is a significant contributor and across a number of us we have some nice examples which stimulates some discussion. I also agree with everything @Jacko says and I'll draw a parallel to the e36... This is BMW's modern e36 and once 6 cylinder e36's became available to the masses they rapidly became popular because they were the ideal execution of BMW engineering for their era... IMHO BMW have drifted a long way from that engineering essence and the 130 gives us a glimpse of the past wrapped in (semi) modern tech. I don't consider boosted cars a suitable comparison, the driving experience is entirely different. And really, if mine has anywhere near the claimed 280hp with a 3.64 diff I certainly wouldn't want any more power for a daily. And the 6 speed auto is a dream. If they came with proper suspension and an LSD out of the box (expensive I realise) then I suspect there would be even more chatter!

That's my experience, valve cover (easy), engine sump (expensive), trans sump (also expensive). The VANOS will need some attention at some stage but it's not terribly difficult/expensive from what I read. DISA valve... BMW will quote you over $2000 to replace it. ? I understand you can remove and clean it yourself.

Facebook provides a messaging platform that's misused as a discussion platform. Forums are a discussion platform. The primary indicators are separate threads and the chronological order of posts. I despise reverse chronological presentation, it panders to people with short/no attention span and you lose all context.

Don't worry too much, we're a bunch of car nerds after all. Any photos you can take and post here will help us to advise and inform you. Pics of the interior Schnitzer badges and a front wheel off pic of the suspension would be ideal.

@zero, @BatMansWilly

Ha, I suspect your "guess" is more accurate than 99% of professional "estimates" given the model in question. And it's easy for me to agree... net ~30k for a minter? Bank it.

But that's not an ideal 'I want to sell my car' attitude. The buyer has the power remember and there are lots of 130's available. You need to meet the market, it won't meet you. I hope you get 10k but I'd lead with "I'm happy to negotiate" rather than "buy a lesser model". ?

The wheels are the same as they put on the "SE" (Special Edition) in the UK, they're polarising but popular. Exhaust is proper wicked. Prices have dropped considerably in the last few months though, I hope you get what you're asking but I'd suggest you prepare yourself for some stiff negotiation. GLWS, it's a nice example.

What's BMW "brake Lube"? A fancy name for expensive copper grease? ?

I wouldn't pay less than $1000 for them.

Red, I don't recall a cloth surface though and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't forget that. They came with the bars. Ha, I faffed around getting the 328 up and level before I did the swaybar, duh. M3 bushings, have you seen this, might help? https://www.babybmw.net/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=109115

I've not had a problem with the Eibach poly bushes and supplied grease on my M3 sway bars, three years now and counting I think. Are you taking all of the preload out of the bars before you tighten the bush mountings? Both wheels on the same axle need to be at ride height when you tighten them up... you really need ramps or a drive on lift. Anyway, the answer to your question is heavy duty marine grease. ?

Read away to your heart's content... https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-323i-lim/repair-manuals/00-maintenance-general-note/

Nice car Mark, some interesting options... did you buy the brakes also? And, given the discussions in this thread, did you pay anywhere near $16k? Regardless, if you want to swap some parts and make some cash back, send me a PM... ?

How soon is ASAP? I received mine from FCP in less than 7 days...

Yeah, that ^. I'd skip the one at Penrose Cars... one of the first I looked at. Expensive and well worn. Okay body kit though.

Huge difference to steering feel, must do.

No reserve? Okay, I'm opening at $1,000. ?

You'll be sweet then, they'll only need to take the foot. ?