aja540i

Pulled into BP Bombay in the M5 wagon and saw this rare beast.... 😉

I'll buy them, always handy to have a spare or 6!! PM me details.

Thats a good start, still a lot of work, even more to manual convert as well.

It will be cheaper and easier to sell yours and buy a V8 one, there is a lot of stuff that needs changing, front subframe, steering box, suspension, brakes, wiring loom, driveshaft and diff, radiator, ecu , etc, etc, etc...

You will probably have to disconnect the driveshaft to get hoops over but you shouldn't need to totally remove it, who is doing your cert?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mitsubishi/auction-2895743950.htm

It doesn't feel like a boost leak, at a certain point it just decides everything is fine and starts pulling like a train, I have also tried to keep an eye on the boost gauge when it happens and it will start building boost then it just holds the revs / boost for a few seconds, then away it goes, a serious boost leak would be evident all the time. One of the possibilities is a fault in the wastgate actuator or its plumbing but I will need a bit of time up my sleeve before I tackle removing the turbo.

Yeah could be, I'm not sure how smart this car is, I assume that an issue in the trans will cause the DDE to limit engine power, which is what it feels like it is doing. I might move the trans filter and oil change to the top of the list.

So, now that it's legal i have been driving it some, and there is an issue ( no surprise there) when pulling away from a standstill it has almost no power, it has meant a couple of close calls when pulling out into traffic!! It doesn't seem to make any difference how much jandal I give it or whether it is hot or cold, it just has no guts, then all of a sudden it wakes up and takes off, but we are probably talking about 3 or 4 seconds of no power. It could be a transmission issue but seems more like the engine just isn't revving up and making power like it should. Googling doesn't give any definitive answers just lots of try this and see type stuff. Any clever ideas? Any dumb ideas that might work anyway? I don't really want to just start throwing random parts at it just yet as I can use it, just not 100% happily.

Make sure you have taken the screws out, and then I think the pins are actually soldered albeit not very well, I just put a bit of heat on them with a soldering iron and they came out, be careful not to damage any of the traces on the PCB while you are doing it!! PM me about the cluster, I can send it down your way with our truck driver from work.

I have recently replaced the speedo and rev counter stepper motors in a cluster for my e39 530d and have a spare cluster ( or 2) without those if you want a donor one for parts? It is quite easy to replace the whole stepper with the spring attached. I might be wrong but don't you have to be able to read the information from your old cluster before you can write it to a replacement cluster?

How long before the BMW legal team are on to this ....;)

Clutch release bearing??

You want me to put your wheel in the boot?

Finally road legal!! Well, once the RUC and rego labels arrive! Next mission is to straighten a slightly buckled style 66 wheel and get some tyres on them, was going to do a full refurb but I kinda like the idea of rough looking wheels on a rough looking car for now. Will get an alignment once new feet are on. Also need to install wiring for power to the car trailer, and install 50mm towball. Then rear subframe bushes and suspension arms. Then trans filter and gasket and new fluid again. Then....

Changed from Miles to Km in the "system", fairly painless, told Vtnz what I needed and they made the phone call and sorted it, 5 minutes later went online and bought RUCs in Km, now just fingers crossed for the WOF!! 😉

Try a bit of compressed air first, makes a bit less mess!!

airbag light sorted, pulled out drivers seat, unplugged all the connections, plugged them back in again, fired up the old steam powered laptop and cleared the fault code, turned key on / off a few times to confirm it was gone, bolted seat back in, job done!! Also de-glazed the rear brakes and greased the caliper sliders, so that is everything done that it failed the WOF on, back to VTNZ tomorrow to get a new list of problems.....

Glass stays put, you need to lower the headlining to get at it, you can pry the metal loom covers apart with a small screwdriver, but its not a fun job....

I would suggest starting with the tailgate wiring loom, mine was a mess and needed 5 wires replaced /repaired.

After pi55ing around trying to change headlight adjusters, a trip to Pick a part for something else netted a pair of PFL headlights with new adjusters already installed, swapped over my polished and clear coated lenses, and bulbs, and threw them in, job done!! Now to sort the air bag light.....

You're paying for it either way, one guy includes it in his hourly rate, the other guy charges it separately. As long as they tell you about the charge before you engage them you can't complain.

Typical, last day for WOF re-check was today, headlight adjusters were waiting for me when I got home, half an hour before testing station closes!!

Ok, so apparently if I want NZTA to change it from miles to Km in their system I have to take it to VTNZ and they have to inspect the odometer to verify it shows km, then they let NZTA know and they will update it. Sounds easy......

Pads have quite a bit of life left in them, but they were quite glazed from sitting around for ages between drives, cleaned up ok and seem to work well enough, need to do the rears as well.