jom

My rack (at 240k) failed the wof on play in the rack - seems to be a new thing. The teeth in the centre of the rack get worn and cause the play. I went through 3 secondhand racks - all worse than mine - before I found one with less wear. Now I've got a purple tag rack, which apart from being a bit quicker, is proportional rather than being slower around straight ahead.

Hopefully they'll send the new one...

Thanks! Amazing, I only spent 2 days looking... I'm still wondering if it's actually a Nissan part.

Mine recently split and failed the WoF. I could source one from BMW (ex Germany) for $800, and I found one on ebay in Wales for $500.... If I had the ZF (Getrag?) auto box the two cotton reel mounts are about $15 each... Luckily my mechanic (the ever resourceful Jon) had a second hand one. As the Jatco box is standard on Nissans, I thought that it might be cheaper to source from there, but my local Nissan dealer is very uncommunicative... Any Nissan experts out there? There are two numbers on the mount - 1093593 and 742669-5. I've done the usual googling, only the Welsh part came up, and I've tried to find my way around Nissan parts lists, but couldn't really get into them. And yes I know the standard answer is fit a manual - funds at the moment don't allow it....

That's odd. I'm running 245/40/17 PS4s on the back on the same wheels with no problem on a 97 coupe (standard springs). Is yours lowered?

When was the last time anyone saw an imperial nut/bolt? On my ride on lawnmower - made in the US, Briggs and Stratton motor etc.

Past experience with polyurethane resin castings of model cars shows that air bubbles are difficult to remove, even with a vacuum. You need to get the resin as mobile as possible, and a 4 minute cure time doesn't help. Would heating the resin make it more fluid? Or maybe look for a resin with a longer cure time?

You won't need a guibo if it's an auto box. I spent ages looking for mine....

If You're doing the autobox, make sure that you drain the torque converter too. I'd advise using synthetic trans fluid.

Occupancy sensor is blue/white.

Brilliant, thanks Dave. To the point and pictures too! I already have one rack inner, so I'll buy another one and machine the grooves. Now where was that 2mm ball nose cutter...?

Apparently they are the wrong length

My 328i Coupe has just failed a WoF for "worn tie rod" on the right hand side. It isn't worn, but the rack teeth are worn around the straight ahead position. I have tried to source a good E36 rack, but there don't seem to be any guaranteed ones available. so - E46 racks are more plentiful, but then I need to machine grooves in the inner E36 tie rod for pressure equalisation between the rack boots. Lots of info on the web about doing it ("took it to my local machine shop") but I can't find the details of what to do anywhere. I can cut the slots on my own mill if I could only find a diagram. Can anyone help?

But not for us in Whanganui! half an hour door to door....

I've had two, both fell off over bumps (Wairarapa road and Manfield kerbs) and after repairing them, refitting, changing the hanging points etc. I gave up. I still have the bits in front of the wheels as they aren't so vulnerable. It doesn't seem to make any difference without the undertray. There is a company in the States that makes a full width undertray in aluminium ($150US last time I looked) but shipping would be a problem...