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Everything posted by KwS
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The other thread reminded me I have one here too, to suit the E36/E46 sport wheel. Black synthetic leather with red stitching. I've used one of these on my old MX5 and they feel really nice when fitted and look very good. $25 posted (excluding rural). This is the wrap only, not the wheel (Though I have a mint one of those too).
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Gosh that interior has not worn well for the KMs.
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There has been a shitload of this crap going on recently. Apparently it has something to do with a tiktok trend and kids thinking its easy and fun to steal cars. Oh, and the other trend is for them to damage the car if they fail to steal it. Cut and smash everything they can. f**king miscreants.
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I was thinking this too. Not my favourite colour tbh, even PY looks better on these.
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Im quite keen to upgrade the current daily Fit to one of these in a couple of years when they're on the used market (and cheaper). They're getting quite good reviews.
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This is my life recently. So much brake fluid. Its my most hated automotive fluid. Basically colourless, odourless, oily, thin, goes everywhere, and will strip paint and damage plastics if you so much as point it in the wrong direction.
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Keep in mind the E39 will have a steering box, not a rack. The E46 will always be more sporty.
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@Sammo dat you? 😂
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No, one kit will do both sides. OEM bushes are likely sold each, but even they shouldnt cost that much.
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R56 Mini Cooper S Automatic Transmission fluid change
KwS replied to Ghost Chip's topic in Other European Cars
That seems to be a real common thing to do, but since i try to avoid autos I dont have direct experience with the job. It looks like its the common overflow in the drain plug setup, which yes, will require the transmission temp to be within a certain range to be correct, which can only be done with a scan tool. I wouldnt drive it low on fluid. If you have to, i'd put 1L (or as close to what you drained as possible) in and carefully nurse it to the mechanic and then have them do a full service on the trans there. -
Those superpro ones are offset, which is designed to correct alignment issues. You'd want ones that arent offset and have the same bush each side. Being a metal sleeve bush I think you would need to press those in too. The powerflex ones in the second link are the same as the ones I used in my R53, and a very common upgrade overseas. They can be done without a press, using some threaded bar and a couple of plates and nuts to draw them in, or maybe a big vice. These are the ones I would go for. Both options are a "car" kit, with bushes to do both sides.
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Lol not quite, it means it was already buggered enough when they got it that the dealer that traded it didn't want to deal with it, so off to trade in clearance it went. When I worked at a dealer all our bottom barrel tradeins went there. The stuff with a list of work needed as long as your arm. Usually the car turned up on trademe later the same day it went to trade in clearance, so you can be damn sure none of that work got done. At a later job we would always dread seeing those plate frames because you knew the moment it entered the workshop it would be a clusterf**k, and it usually was. I'd avoid it based on the plate frames alone.
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There are ways to press the bushes out in place on the car, but it needs special tools to do it and its generally regarded as a real PITA. Its possible they will do it that way, or they have just under quoted labour a lot (there is no way you can drop the subframe, replace the bushes and refit in 2 hours). I wonder if they would let you supply your own polybushes at their labour rate?
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You sure thats right? The parts are pretty cheap, unless you were replacing the whole arms with genuine BMW. I'd almost think the part cost was $160 and the the rest was labour.
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Bloody diabolical. Not too hard to do but time consuming and means removing a bunch of the front of the car. Expect to spend a decent lump of cash on labour if you arent doing it yourself. This was from when I did mine on my R53
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Superpro make good bushes, and being polybushes they will last forever and are an upgrade from stock rubber. The sellers on TM are probably from AUS, otherwise you can usually get Superpro from Autolign in NZ. I believe all the polybush options are easier to install than OE replacements which need to be pressed in. I used Powerflex on my R53, which i ordered direct from the UK https://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Front+Wishbone+Rear+Bush/1836.html
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https://www.repco.co.nz/en/oils-fluids/additives/power-steering-additives/prestone-european-full-synthetic-power-steering-fluid-355ml/p/A6141532?kwSearch=power steering Its a real bastard to find small amounts for top ups. I ended up buying a bottle of the Penrite stuff and itll sit on my workbench for years without being used now, since it took like 100ml to top up.
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This is a double edge sword. Mine has this feature and it spends a lot of its time in "crash mode" thanks to the shitty rough roads around Wellington. Potholes and bumps will trigger it.
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I'm not convinced the comparison would be the Group A SS as that was a limited release motorsport model. That would be a competitor to something like the 850csi. The top mass production model would've been the Clubsport.
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Having had an old Blackvue in my car for years now, the biggest piece of advice I can give is to look into your options for getting the video off the camera. My only option is to remove the microsd card and use an adaptor to plug it into a computer. Its a real PITA so I don't bother getting video off it unless its pretty serious. If you can get one that you can transfer the video wirelessly to your phone or something, you'd find that way more useful.
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Not to mention the M70 puts out 450NM of torque....
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Just because you aren't offended, doesn't make it any less racist. You are right though, every country can turn out some substandard sh*t. Some of the aftermarket suspension components made in the US for instance can't be certified here because the welding is scary bad.
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You really shouldn't, because it wasnt.
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Jeez you talk some sh*t on here.
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Also note change in block/head family (M30 - M54), and change in number of cams/valves requires cert.