KwS

I got within sniffing distance of buying a V10 TDI one of these and then wussed out at the ongoing cost of ownership; that, and it would touch each end of my garage with nothing to spare 🤣 Awesome cars though, and so understated. Everyone just thinks they're a Passat.

If you're going to do it, at least gets a couple of mates around to help. Its going to be a sh*t job in the first place, the last thing you want is to be stuck under the car with the trans lying on you and no way out.

The N62 of that era is a dumpster fire of a thing too. Big list of potentially cripplingly expensive things that always go wrong.

Get stuck in, DIY it. Doesnt get much easier to work on than an E30 and parts are plentiful. Good car to learn on and there is nothing you need a specialist for.

https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/warped-rotors-myth/ https://blog.fcpeuro.com/warped-brake-rotors-vibrating-reality-or-internet-myth https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/05/19/6-biggest-brake-rotor-myths-debunked/ So, not really a worthy thread necro.

If its not rusty you should jump on that as a quick easy project to get back on the road. Looking at the state of it, it needs someone to save it from its current owner.

MK8, far nicer looking car than that bloated pig nose thing.

Have rung 105 a couple of times, had no wait times and they have been very helpful. Guess thats just what happens when you dont live in Dorkland?

Japan. Bimmer.work still works. Its REALLY well optioned. Comfort access, active steering, sunroof, cruise, pdc, heated seats, adaptive xenon

Carjam says Jap import

Well optioned too. PDC, sunroof and is that a cruise stalk i spot?

Shes a bit tight on the old hoist there 😄😄

Are they a taper seat or crush washer style? Going from the NGK boxes, once the plug is seated hand tight a taper seat is a further tweak of about an 16th of a turn, whilst a crush washer style is around half to three quarter a turn to tighten.

Back in my day the speed camera areas used to be signposted

3. DO NOT USE CHEAP HEX SOCKETS. I made that mistake and will never do it again. Make sure you get the best brand you can get and not some cheap Supercrap rubbish. I replaced mine with Bahco and the difference in how tight of a fit the hex was was huge, its no wonder the cheap ones rounded the bolts out.

One recommendation i'll make is to check the scale. If you mainly work on metric stuff (bmws, japanese etc), make sure the NM scale is what lines up with the round figures. One of my most used ones has the rounded scale line up with lb-ft and its a pain to use NM instead. I have all three scales. The 1/2" is mostly used for wheels, mounts, and suspension parts. 3/8" for engine parts, and the 1/4" is useful for valve covers and anything that needs a small, fine, scale (not that often but its damn handy when you do need it).

Doesnt seem too complex, if your current levers have 3 stamped on them use the part numbers for either A or B, if its got 1 or 2 on it use A, or if it has 4, 5 or 6 use B. Both A and B part numbers from RealOEM are showing as available overseas (using the vin from my old 650i, which is likely the same parts but check first). Replacing just one lever is forbidden, it must be done as a kit.

Im not sure if this helps, but this is what the PUMA measure is about, https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/repair-kit-for-idler-lever-4-8is.1269192/

Throttle controller fitted to that one too, wonder how much of a difference that makes? Im guessing a reasonable amount if the throttle, like other BMWs of the time, isnt linear.

As long as it doesnt have a pretensioner. If it does, it cant be re-webbed. There is a guy in Wellington that is one of few authorised to do it (non-pretensioned).

Bimmergeeks also does the Protools app for your phone, could be worth looking into? Looks really indepth and gets good reviews.

Finally saw a new M3/4 on the road the other day, good lord the grilles look no better in person, so ugly. Thankfully thats all I could focus on and didnt see the rest of the disaster behind the grilles.

Out of curiosity, is there a corresponding mark on the headgasket where those gouges in the head are? One looks like it leads right to a coolant gallery.

Love a chunky sidewall

Non-standard center console? Reminds me of a CSL one