thorburn

M54 headgasket wont fit on m50. Some parts don't line up. Doesn't matter though because you can get the different thicknesses from cometic and some other distributors. Otherwise elring head gasket and shave the head. If the current head gasket is fine i'd leave it the way it is. If your looking for more power and don't mind spending the money I can help with getting some compression ratio measurements

I've only recently moved the car into the shed, so it's been very slow. Removed the windscreen the hard way. Removed the steering column and started adapting that so it'll take the weld on steering wheel adapter. And i've started fitting up the euro m3 headers. Once I get some stuff finished i'll add some photos and hopefully a worthwhile update. I'm currently distracting myself with helping rebuild a toyota 4k motor

You could modify it but it'd be cheaper to get an m3 back end. You still need half shafts etc to make it work I'm sure a medium case will hold up to most of the punishment you could give it.

There is no sure way of telling unless you take the back cover off. People (scumbags) swap tags. The "S" is printed on some non lsd diffs as well

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=H%26R+springs+e90 Yes H&R is a good brand. Get some good shocks to go with them and you'll be happy as

I got the cross members from the bmw dealership in Hamilton. Not sure if I added a price to the build thread or not. If not I've got no idea. Can get you the part numbers if they aren't on the build as well. I got the reinforcement plates from pelicanparts while i was getting some other parts. They are available through dealerships and probably euroitalian and miland parts Because yours is a coupe it'll be a lot easier to get to the front cross member. Steps I took went something like this- Remove interior that could get hot. Remove battery and unplug ecu(some would say it isn't necessary) Remove rear subframe Remove fuel tank Wire wheel all the underseal off around the lip of the crossmember Cut or grind through the welded parts. Remove sound deadening above cross member.Dry ice is definitely worth the money Drill out all the spot from the top(just because I found it easier) and get the others from underneath. Prep the new crossmember for welding(add reinforcements while it's not upside down) Setup a jig or the subframe to make sure it'll bot up in the right place Remove the crossmember. The underseal and any leftover bits of spot weld make it a bitch to remove Put new crossmember in pace and set up with jig. Tack in place Plug weld through all your drilled hoes and replicate the original welds holding it in place. Add some extra stitches if you so desire. Paint and seam seal it all Re-install parts Good luck with it. If you do decide to do it yourself I'll try help out anyway I can

Sorry i'm not in chch but I'd be happy to help in any way I could. Is this for a turbo m50? have you got all the settings sorted? I think there was a guy on here with the username barf that was from down south Michael the reason all tuners that i've spoken with is that too many people don't build it correctly. Spending a day of 'dyno time' tracing a cold solder or a reversed diode isn't the best use of their time. Some might be poorly built by the customer. The layout is very easy to follow when putting the board together and the instructions are very clear and precise. Still people make mistakes. A megasquirt has most of the features your average person will use on their wire in g4 storm or atom. Have a look into tuner studio and compare it with the link lineup. Most people batch inject and run wastedspark anyway Where it lacks in cost, you need to add time and ability. Sorry for getting off topic

That's a good price

Are you using the purple rear subframe bushes?

Where are you from?

Diagnose it properly with sniffer test and or leakdown test. If that all passes check the individual parts in the cooling system. Overheating leads to head sealing issues. Doesn't matter what k's

Your output in 5th gear will now be 1:1. I'd go for a 2.93, 3.15 or 3.23. The lower the number the lower your revs will be at 100k's

Nice start. what diff do you have in it atm? Did you make the shifter boot? Just make sure the intake isn't from an m50b20. I've seen alot of those coming up on trademe for cheap lately. You'll be able to tell when you look inside it

That looks really tidy. I'd hate to think how many hours have gone into it. must be very rewarding now. Will you be selling the software itself? maybe with a cable like Evoscan software

i agree with euroriffic. Has worked for me every time

pictures of girlfriend... Some sexual frustration would really help speed up the project

increased torque because the fuel has longer to atomize and cool the inlet temperatures? or is there more to it than just that

are they controlled by the ecu or all fired at once by a piggyback? What size injectors have you maxed out? I've been sorting out the same thing for the merc i'm tinkering with but running both injectors at the same time and scaling it to suit(might change to staged at a later date). Hopefully will turn out cheaper then buying bigger injectors

Anyone have one that I can borrow. Will supply beers or cash etc. Just need to move my car from Ham East to Norton Rd. Any afternoon or weekend

I've got purple powerflex bushes in my e36. After reading a few threads online about the washers underneath failing I did some preventative maintenance and went for thicker washers and longer bolts in the front. I think there is some info early in my build thread. If I were to do it again i'd try another brand or go for the black ones (or be a real man and solid mount it). They work fine now but it's alot of mucking around for a not so cheap product. Are you getting new pistons and rods? what brand and compression ratio

Is the old and new belt the same size? sometimes it's written on the belt

Racetech. A little different

is that stainless tube going to the mild steel merge? what size tube is that? Will you be bracing the turbo from the block? looking forward to seeing that exotic turbo mounted up

There are a few people that have made them fit (even in Nz). Move the tps sensor around and modify the oil filter housing and an adapter. I think i've seen some adapter plates being sold somewhere before. Are you going to track or drag this car?

well this looks exciting