thorburn

I'd use the standard coil on plugs. No reason to run leads. They just increase the chance of interference and add something else that could go wrong You can pinch the ignitors from bosch ecus Ignitors go between the coil and the ecu.

I have some in Hamilton

You can use all the factory sensors. I can share the sensor settings when you need them. Knock sensors will be more of a hindrance than a help in the beginning. Very nice turbo MLM are you using bip373's?

where are $80us arp's? i'll definately buy some of those. Cheapest i've been quoted or seen is nearly double that. Your after a bit more power then I am. Looking forward to seeing how the 2.8L lasts with some good tuning. Not to mention everything between the engine and the tyres I'll personally be making my own manifold(when I find a turbo or mock up turbo). It seems that the flipped manifolds work and if crunchy gives a thumbs up why not. With the plug and play you might have a few problems with using the non vanos engine. I'm not sure if ecu pinouts are different. I do know the trigger points are different. Not a big deal but it makes it a little more tempting to spend a bit more and get an xtreme. Well it's a lot more if you get carried away with rewiring things

That turbo looks rather cheap for what it is. What are you doing for the engine? shimmed gasket or full forged big boss gear? I should be ordering in a thicker headgasket and some arp head studs soon if you'd like to share shipping Congrats on the job

As kws has said look for a milkshake mix I'd also get a sniffer test done. This will check if there is any exhaust gases going into the cooling system I wouldn't be getting any new parts unless I knew I was keeping it

Thanks heaps sp8s. Blackie i've passed the parcel

Where did you get the black plates from?

Anyone have a link of where to see it? Even if you have to pay

I should get a set. So yes

half the door entrance height http://www.motorsport.org.nz/sites/default...-Sch-A-2010.pdf

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....c=39653&hl=

That's looking amazing. What size tubing is the small stuff going to the subframe? Do you have to add that to your homologation drawings?

have a perv through a bentley manual. This site has a link to it http://www.jonkensy.com/DTA/ he's also got plenty of info on sticking a megasquirt on an m50/2. http://www.jonkensy.com/megasquirt/

Not going to do anything for you The higher octane is necessary for higher compression engines and some turbo engines. This is because these engines are knock limited while using lower octane fuel

All the adjustable lower arms are about the same. Whichever one has the best heim joints will be the best. I've got some blue thailand ones that are nice to adjust(crappy rod ends). I still need to get some more k's on them to know how they last

all the info you need is written on the alignment sheet.

For the rub on the front you will need to centre the steering rack. A good wheel alignment should sort that out. You can also get steering limiters Has mag and turbo done a wheel alignment? I'd get them to do everything or return their product and go about doing it yourself with a different set of springs

If you've got access to a tig you should definately be making one yourself. Flip some manifolds and join them together if you don't want to go all out.

Keep up the good work. Hope your clutch kit holds You might want to reconsider using an ebay manifold. If you look through ben's posts he mentioned that they aren't a good fit. You'll also want to reinforce them to have any hope of it not cracking. Have you decided on what sort of power you want from this

scrape out all the gunk from inside your gaurds then beat on the lip with a rubber mallet. If you need the gaurds to be nearly flat use a roller. Heat it if you care about the paint inside your gaurds( I personally dont and just respray it) If your gaurds are full of bog things will get really funny which ever way you do it

Ray you'd definately know more then I do so i'll take it back.

you could get 9k worth of parts from it.

Not sure really. It was imported from Australia early on. The only rust i've found is in the battery tray and under the spare tyre well. Nothing really to worry about. Especially if you compare it with cars you see from the uk

Got the crossmembers in. No stress, no fuss, just time consuming (which is ideal for me). Welding in the cross members and reinforcements was very easy. Cross members were tacked in with the subframe in place. Welding up the back seat was very time consuming. I really needed another set of hands to get it done quickly. I've just finished painting it all in por15. I need to source some of the foam underbody sealer gunk tomorrow, then change a few bushes and bolt it up. I'll also fix up all the rust in the boot and have a big search over the car for any more rust.