bravo

I think he makes some valid points. Esp. regarding the commercialism. Waters down the act so to speak. I couldn't care less one way or the other. It does however add a bit of entertainment and excitement in the lead-up to kick off, and when performed well, does give a sense of national pride, but at the end of the day, getting all bent out of shape at someone's entitled opinion that it be scrapped is just giving in to the very insecurities the author mentions. Let it stay or let it go, either way, just stop getting so fired up about the subject.

If you want the thicker stuff they use for floor (ie fake wood lino) I'm putting some through a rental in about 10 days. You can have all the off cuts. Same grain pattern as you posted, but darker colour. 2mx2m might be a push though. Talk to a flooring place. Comes in a 3m or 2m roll. Heaps of different colours and patterns. About $50 a metre on a 2m roll if you get something on special. Anything up to $130+ a metre on a 3m roll for higher quality or more complex and true-to-life patterns.

The noise you refer to can be a total bitch to diagnose. Can be quite a few things. Mine took months to locate, and a new, quiter one has just started after almost a year of no trouble. Search google and you will find more information than you will ever need on trying to isolate the problem. Once you have isolated it to a certain part of the system you can go from there. Mine turned out to be the wires behind the woofer cone touching a metal part of the car. Even though I checked everything a million times, I always installed the speakers before testing, and so it was always there. it wasn't until I pulled the speakers out and tested that I found it. I'm hoping my new problem is the same thing, and just things have moved since I first fixed it.

Glenn will know more than I do, but if it is your average stabiliser bar , it is held on by two brackets with rubber bushes and 2 linkages with rose-joints and rubber bushes, so either the brackets/bushes have failed, or more likely if it s"loose") 1 or both linkages have gone. find out which it is and buy replacement parts. Installation is DIY for anyone with a bit of mechanical knowledge.

Are you saying that a beema won't last 2 years? I know what you are getting at, but bmw's are fine first cars provided you find a well maintained one, and you have the money to continue that maintenance. The problem with BMW's is that muppets buy them for the perceived status, but can't afford to maintain them and so there are a lot of dogs out there, esp older models. Don't buy the cheapest one you can find, buy the cheapest GOOD one you can find.

I'd have that cheap 50 if it passed mechanical inspection. Wouldn't take the difference in price to make it better than the 40 I posted.

The people - not as bad as everyone makes out. The traffic - I think you've just got used to it. I hated it when I moved there, two years later it wasn't so bad, moved away, and immediately realised how used to it I'd become, and how bad it actually was. As far as cities go, there are plenty worse, but it certainly lacks the charm of some of our smaller cities like Dunedin and Christchurch.

Every e30 I've seen has the side markers - if your doesn't, then its more the exception than the rule. Ican't remember how many e30's I've seen, but its probably more than you've had hot dinners. Its a pre f/l - rear lights, rear guards, and non-ellipsoid headlights. The tail lights being the biggest give away. It isn't even a full tech-II kit - its missing the side skirts, front and rear guard pods and door pods. Factory spec on the m20b25 is 170hp, so I'd say its a blatant embellishment. Real rwhp is probably closer to 120-130hp or around, but probably just below 100kw in the new money. Its a bit of a POS, esp for that money. With no WOF, no reg, that paint job, and all the probable problems I wouldn't give him 2k.

Basically you have 2 options - find somewhere in a nearby suburb (what I would do) My g/f lived in Henderson and it was safe and tidy enough if you like living in cities. Or you can find somewhere down the motorway preferrably in a direction toward the city which as Hi-tek says means you're going the right way for the traffic, and closer to town for the weekend. If it were me, I'd just avoid Auckland altogether lol. But them I'm a redneck from the country. I guess 100km/h empty roads on the way to work, an office 50m from the beach, $110 p/w rent and a paddock for burnouts isn't the life for everybody.

The car's computer uses the sensors in part of its work in trying to figure out how much fuel to give the car and when to give it. The difference between your motor and the motronic 1.3 is that it uses a slightly different sensor in a different part of the motor as Cam says. Either you have had a bad run with sensors, or you have a problem that is causing them to continuously fail.

OK, so she found some Cragar Superspokes in a 14" (stock wheels are 12") with good tyres for $350. Tyres are a touch large, but right on the 5% threshold. Stock tyres are 155SR12's which AFAIK are 155/80/12, and new tyres are 185/60/14 When they wear out we'll put something closer to stock on. Have to roll the rear guards slightly, but otherwise they rock. Pictures may follow once they are polished and on the car. They look like this on a 'rolla.

I think alot of manufacturers made some hot cars pre-1990. The jappas of the 90's (and even 80's alot of the time) don't have anything on their earlier stablemates.

TM

But of course.

easy. M1. But on a more realistic note - I too cannot choose. 2002 turbo, M3, M6 (e24 635CSi), all so badass.

Yeah, my workmate said his mate is a tech for telecom and he told him they are pulling it all out. I find it hard to believe, but may as well spread the misinformation.

The m20's without the sensor in the gearbox has it on the front of the motor. So you have a cople of options if your gearbox doesn't have holes for the sensors: Drill holes in the gearbox and tap a thread (not too hard to do, and won't cost anything). Or get the motronic 1.3 sensor, brackets, and sensor wheel for the front of the crank, and I'm not even certain this is possible (sounds harder to me than drilling a hole and you have to buy parts).

What is the reason for the collector near the end? Why not twin pipes all the way? I'm thinking maybe I could cut it at the collector to join in with my 2.25" current system at that point.

Rumour mill is at it again - a supposedly reliable source reckons that Telecom are now canning the whole move to 3G in response to hard financial times. Sounds like a crock to me.

Read this About halfway down the page is more info than you ever wanted to know on the subject.

Super sweet!

Happy bday - hope your humming by now.

cheers ears

I think anyone under the age of 25 will struggle to know any songs by them Glenn with the exception of The Gambler, and maybe the odd BeeGees track.