_ethrty-Andy_

Most E30 guys will even tell you that from a mechanical point of view the E36 is the better car. But the interiors suck, the doors suck, the cooling system sucks, and it just looks like a dated 90s car, doesn't look like a classic

just in response to this, its a continuously variable system, it is not Off or On like some other manufacturers at this age. Correct oil is 10W40, I use Penrite, but really any brand name will do. Some swear by Castrol for no reason other than thats what BMW etched into the filler cap 20 years ago.

fuel economy gain is marginal at best. as I said above, if this is the objective as is the OPs question, you are waiting your time. Parts alone will take you a long time to recover from your fuel saving, and when you do you will be back to having destroyed seals, not to mention if you have to pay someone to install. Also there is zero mechanical damage that can result because of not tending to them, unlike most other areas on the motor that fit the OPs objective better.

good idea, worth a shot maybe, though people usually don't update the details of their plate if it is sold/purchased, and they probably aren't supposed to tell you either. Privacy laws, for better or for worse, prevent this sort of thing from occurring.

well it can't be between that, as there is no ratio made between them, has to be one or the other. But now is more than 30 years old plus and I don't know milage, any previous owner could have changed it at some point for whatever reason, even small case diffs bolt in fine etc. best is always to check at this age, VIN decoders are only ever accurate as at the date of production, and that VIN above left the factory with a 3.46:1 LSD

the numbers indicate roughly where they are in the range Getrag produce, They are no more relevant to whats inside the 'box than any modern BMWs badge indicating what engine is inside it.

they aren't supposed to even tell you that much.

That Vin shows the following: Feb 1986 build date. NZ New or maybe UK import etc, not a Jap or SA car anyways. 3.46 Medium case, used on both the 325i and the 325e if the tag doesn't say 3,46 then it may say "45 13" The later diff showing post September 1986 is 3.64 (much more common 325i ratio), tag may also say "40 11" if it shows any other series of 4 numbers, you take the first two and put it over the second two and that will give you the ratio. However as Grant says above, best is still to rotate the drive shaft and count the rotations. use a chalk mark on the input and BOTH outputs, yes even tho LSD the two outputs may spin at different ratios as the LSD is unlikely to still be working at this age. Hope this helps

I really want this car mostly because of the milage, I am always interested in cars about 400,000km (except for my Hiace I took to well past that). I hope you can't sell it and it has to end up in my drive for bugger all.

ended up signing up to Amazon prime until the end of the season then I will quit. Good to watch the first season again as well, and in better quality than the first time around I watched it too,

nah looking in the wrong place I think. Look for diff listed as a complete exchange unit, usually part number 1. If you post your VIN I will look it up and screen capture (if I can remember how on a Mac)

if its not the incorrect oil volume because the filler hole is in the wrong place, or the inadequate pickup of oil, or the fact its not rated for the torque, it is the shifter breaking because its either on the piss, or been cut and welded and no longer geometrically correct and therefore flexing every time that it gets used. Its a bodge. Although using the M40 box is a bodge too, just not quite so bad, as at least it is only the fact its not rated for the torque you have to worry about, the rest is okay.

if it is just a daily etc don't worry about vanos seals. Correct that they have probably failed, but the expense is not worth replacing, them even when DIY, if your only gain is to be fuel economy. A bit different if you like to throw around on a back road or on a track etc.

if you pay for the report then it shows current info, providing the owner hasn't opted out of having their details shared. By default, everyone is opted in. having said that, you can ring NZTA and give them the plate, they will tell you if the motor is still live in the system or not, but won't tell you (or shouldn't anyways) any more than that.

Ari, most of the posts above are not relevant to you so don't let them lead you astray. I can tell from your posts you are on the right track. I have done an M52 into an E30 (externally dimensionally identical to the M50 as far as your question is concerned), using a G240 box from an M40, unlike the other people posting. You need to use all E30 320i gear, driveshaft and shifters as well. upgrading the rear axles is of course also a good idea tho beyond the scope of your question. since flywheel came up above, I used a shaved M20 flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing etc setup in my conversion. everything behind the end of the crank should be M20/M40 stuff if you want to use that box. M20 G240 does not bolt up properly to M5x motors and will be on a lean. It is a cheapskate bodge that doesn't last. PM or call me if you need.

will show on RealOEM if you enter in last 7 digits of your chassis.

Plenty, just higher spec 328i etc. 318iS is much rarer.

lol how tiny is your garage??

cant beat M52 for bang for buck, reliability, good power upgrade, light weight, easy swap, a million people done it so plenty of data on the internet what works and what doesnt. i can bang a conversion out in a weekend now once you have all the bits. Really comes down to budget, and i defiantley run with the school of thought while the motor (regardless of waht you put in) is out, change all the gaskets, seals, o rings, spark plugs, etc. If not everything then at the very least especially the stuff on the bottom like sump gaskets and rear main seal, timing cover that are hard to get to once the motor is in (again, regardless of the engine you choose. makes it a lot more enjoyable once finished if everything works as it should, doesnt leave a mess on your freinds driveways, etc. $5k will get you a fully certified M52/ZF swap including all the other stuff to think about

i wonder if someone took the bonnet off and didnt put the shims back in at the hinge I also edited my post above just now

rubbish.

they are about $3 for 10m or so on Wish.com hardly an expencive exercise and can take it off easy enough if ya change your mind. SOmeone elses car they can do what they want

My Transit came in at about the same all round $2k+GST at the dealer. Yep can do it for cheaper no matter the brand, but you will be in tehre again in a year or two if you use chinese stuff. OE or OEM or just doesnt work out in the long run.

why didnt ya use hastings dealer?