Olaf

definitely has trouble with spelling. that plate is supposed to spell ANUS.

who can place the silliest question?😎

Brief question @Neal - speaker cable guage you used that passes through the connector, please? 16g?

thanks for the sanity check Neal! Tight and tuneful is my focus... some of the most fun hifi speakers I've listened to aren't super-acurate (flat) on the f response graph, or even go way-deep... I'd much rather listen to Linn Kans on a pair of Naim 135's than LS3/5a's on any round-earth amp you'd care to mention; Royd Minstrels don't go at all deep (I think about 38Hz is it?), though man can they play a tune and portray the sound of bass convincingly. I think going to a 1 ohm stable amp will require double the amp budget to get something with an iron grip into higher current loads. To my current thinking (hur hur), there's some balance in the equation of 8" driver, my space constraints, lower-budget focus, and preference for higher quality/value for money (I can probably find a reasonable sub mono block at around $400). the counterpoint is trying to do more quantity at the expense of quality within the budget envelope... a 10" needs more space and better control (or a better, more expensive driver as well...), or running 2ohm with the 8" (or 10") will need a bigger (more powerful) amp so I spend less on speaker quality...

with the Alpine R2-W8D2 as an example, the spec sheet seems pretty close to what you've indicated? I'd be looking at running the two nominally 2 ohm coils in series to make a nominal 4 ohm load, so that'd be the left hand column? (1.8ohm+1.8ohm), Fs 42Hz, Qts 0.48, and in a 0.3 cu ft enclosure, Qtc of 0.73.... am I on the right track? I'll need to figure out if it's easy enough to make a 0.3 cu ft (8.5 litres) enclosure - I suspect it is, if these guys can make a 0.5 cu ft (14.6 litres) enclosure for a 10" sub with a little more load area intrusion. Other consideration is the Alpine - unlike the more expensive examples - requires at least 4.6 inches (116mm) from front of baffle to clear the basket and magnet. I guess I can always mount it a little higher in the baffle, with magnet tilted downward and the baffle accounting for the tilt. I'll take a look at those links tonight, cheers.

thanks @Neal very helpful!

Looks like many of the 8" subs look for ~0.3 cu ft in sealed mode, and are available with 4 ohm configuration and power handling for ~350 watts RMS. Alpine R2-W8D2 (around NZD240?) details Audison APS8 D (around NZD350?) details JL Audio 8W3v3-4 (getting up there, ~NZD ) details Focal P20 FSE (around (around NZD375) details More measurement and estimation required, then map T-S parameters and mounting depth constraints, look for the numbers that are important. cheers

Singaporean import. Avoid.

For $4,800 you'd expect a vehicle to be in running order and certainly not with items disconnected and running like a dog. Which outfit raped your wallet, was lube included?

I've driven it a few times since we collected it. Full tank of Waitomo 95 before xmas day. I drove it today, into town and back... and I marvelled at how well it's running. Light throttles... making making torque and climbing hills at 50 like it's enjoying it. Running sweetly. Jon at Begley Motor Worx has worked his magic.

Perhaps I'm getting ahead of myself, thinking about small sub in left side, sealed box. Instagram Bimmerbox (now closed) had great success with 10" (0.5cu ft), using a fibreglass shell, baffle encroaching a bit into the load space. Initial discovery on e46 Fanataics thread here Wonder if I can find an 8" that's quick enough on its feet - my assumption is easier to build a box - within the available space - to provide the correct volume for an 8 inch sub... and hopefully not too many watts required (I'm thinking 300W/4 ohms RMS such as a baby Alpine), Class D, not too many pesos, and low heat/low space. I'm guessing scanning the area with iPhone (Scaniverse), print a mould, lay up fibreglass into the mould for the back half. Do similaly for the front half, including a countersunk mounting ring in MDF (I have a Jasper Jig for my router). I can build the baffle out of my existing side panel. I have a spare from the parts car now. Lots more reading to do. It is xmas hols after all.

it's okay mate, heel-and-toe double de-clutch downshifts with blips when I'm pedalling a manual 😁

$47.99 for 5 litres is a decent price for sure.

how the hell did that escape dieselgate?! bloomin' barmy idea, imagine one of the Toerags that was produced with that power plant? it'd be a barrel of laughs - at least until some poor sod had to throw spanners at it. PS: I've a mate hanging on to his W8 Avant for grim death - loves the thing! I can understand it.

yep, the ZF6HP is an excellent box, and given it appears to be a relatively simple swap, indeed why wouldn't ya? The ZF8HP is astonishing at its smoothness and intelligence; I can't vouch for more or lesser longevity or reliability of 6HP vs 8HP. I agree with what you're saying John, there's a big difference between swapping in a trans that the car is engineered for, and customising an entirely different trans swap. I'm in the same camp - I certainly love the manual driving experience, a conversion would not get a look in with anything my wife drove even infrequently. I drove manual in Mexico City for ~2.5 years, if I was doing that again it'd be auto all the way. Modern autos are bloody brilliant.

yeah that appears to be pretty well sorted.

they look the business, John! nice work!

Yeah plus one on the Nice Work - great work on the wiring remediation and patient servicing! You'll be setting this one up for reliable extended life, so many of them get neglected. I think the auto-dimming door mirrors are a pretty good feature when you're on the open road at night and there's a knob behind you on high-beam 🙂 Still, low cost is a good option! Looking forward to your next installment. Keeping chariot trouble-free and reliable for family use is a major priority.

Greetings Uwe, Frohe Weihnachten an Sie!

I was just catching up on your build thread - wow! Wondering - would you recommend the Bevinsee intake? I found them on Aliexpress for under 50 clams, and I figure if it helps with intake temps in the summer at slower speeds, that wouldn't be a bad thing... Re BMW-safe windscreen washer fluid, I just buy the BMW stuff - a couple of dozen bottles at a time. It's cheap enough, does the job. The Liqui Moly stuff is also good though more expensive by a good 30%. HTH

still looking mate? I was looking at e46 tourings for sale in UK yesterday. Dreaming, I should say...

My first choice for 11121432928 is to go with a decent OEM or proven aftermarket item. - Perhaps a Vaico? The V20-2177 is ~EUR110. On FCP one of the reviews indicates "The drawbacks of the original BMW valve cover and gasket are corrected here. The cam half-circles are extended on the valve cover and the gasket profile is different, better than it is on original." Also "Comes with gaskets installed plus bolt grommets and cover stand-offs included." and... "Initially I thought this part was off the OE tool without the BMW logo insert. After I took some time to inspect it, there were enough subtle differences to indicate the part did not come off the same tooling as the OE part. It is, however, a very good reproduction. Same mold tool runner locations, all geometry details captured, same material, similar tooling marks in the metal stamping. I don't buy cheap replacement parts for my car because I don't like doing a job twice. This is a solid replacement part." sounds promising.

Fig 1: Multifunction Sports Leather Steering Wheel P/N 32 34 2 282 022, before leather restoration Multi-function Steering Wheel: As mentioned above, Jon also installed and retrofitted the Msport multi-function wheel I'd sourced back in 2019. Part Number 32 34 2 282 022. It had sat around in the bubble-wrap awaiting a suitable confirmed post-recall airbag. After getting the parts car, I'd cleaned and dyed the leather, with a Colourlock Leather kit I've had for ages, fed it with Elephant Leather Preservative. I confirmed with BMW via the rego number of the parts car that this was a post Takata recall airbag. So I sourced the BMW multifunction retrofit kit. The option codes (for e46) are: Option S249A Multifunction steering wheel, and option S255A Sports leather steering wheel. This wheel was also optioned in e39, and standard on e46 M3 and e39 M5. Where we started: the original helm (with post-recall airbag) Jon did the retrofit. Now, in addition to the super-comfortable wheel, we have steering wheel controls, and cruise control. Superb. prepping for surgery (Photo: Jon Begley) spread wide - paint by numbers (photo: Jon Begley) let's start reassembly (photo: Jon Begley) For the first time (in my e46) - cruise control! (that bright green indicator, bottom right). Cruise is a real boon coming up to Christmas with a significant increase of visible (and mufti) road policing... Waze on the phone, dial in preferred speed (on the Waze speed indicator), set cruise control, sweat less when the radar detector alerts to the presence of RADAR or LIDAR. Driver's seat view (parked) I dig it. Slightly smaller diameter, much better feel. And of course, buttons! Control the stereo, set the speed etc. It was worth the effort and expense. I particularly like the feel through the wheel turning into a tight corner; significant improvement over the old helm.

thanks @Vass! Hmm yes perhaps an Alu may do the trick. I need the earlier one as mine's the bolt-in coil version. I did find a nicer one on another car, got the cover off and then found it was the later one with clip-in coils, so left it in place. Great idea re the PS pressure lines, thanks! Yes I was rather put-off by the new cost.

Date: 10-15 Dec 2024 Distance: 216,280 kms 1. Remediation day. Front ARB Replacement - installed the ARB from the post above. Bushes were replaced recently. Diff Replacement - including front differential bushes. Fresh Penrite 75W90 Synthetic, new bungs. What Diff'rence Does It Make? PSU Reservoir replacement. Eliminating that annoying leak. New Power Steering Reservoir awaiting install. (Image: Jon Begley) Headlamps: Replaced both main beam bulbs D2S Xenon (headlight out). Left hand had been intermittent - it seemed to dislike the thought of the outside world! Tailgate stops: replaced tailgate stops to remedy leak into cargo area. They're a sh*t to get to! New Tailgate Bump Stop installed (Image: Jon Begley). Guess it's time for a thorough clean around the hatch, then. Cooling System Low: I'd had to put in about half a litre of coolant every 8 weeks or so. Jon noticed evidence of coolant loss. Yechhh - that'll be coolant on the outside, then... (Image: Jon Begley). Traced to both hard lines beneath the intake manifold. We'd replaced them in 2019/2020 with Rein items. Very disappointing that they'd failed already. Sourced new genuine BMW items from Continental Cars BMW Wellington. It was 23 months since last coolant flush, so after pressure testing, new genuine BMW Blue coolant 1:1 per factory recommendation with deionised water. Ready for new coolant pipes Oil Leaks: removed belts, front covers, oil filter housing. One thread had failed last time the job was done; this time the remaining three needed helicoil repair. Helicoil tools of trade Jon shows the battlefield after helicoil action Oil Leaks Continued... New filter housing gasket. On prepping for valve cover gasket set replacement (Elring 318.590 includes the grommets; I also bought new genuine BMW washers), Jon found that my valve cover was cracked. It's becoming a common 'feature' of M54's at this age. I was dispatched to Pick-A-Part to secure a suitable replacement. M54 Valve cover in the wild at Pick-A-Part Having located one, it took me 35 mins to successfully remove - not bad given I'm a geezer and out of practice. 35 mins later... Hairline crack found in two of the apertures - it'll have to do for the next four or five months, guess I'll be sourcing a brand new one. Bugger. Oh well, better than what was on my car... it's a temporary. Reinstallation.... Inlet manifold , covers, (the seals were still excellent, replaced when the starter motor was replaced recently), oil filter housing, alternator, belts, oil filter (Mann) and fresh Penrite HPR-5 5-40 Synthetic; Air Filter (Mann), Cabin Filter (Corteco) fitted. Ran up to temp, checked levels and for leaks. Tested OK. Multi-function Steering Wheel: more detail in a dedicated post below. Next Steps Now I'll prep the battery tray from the parts car, rust convert, etch, prime, and hit it with the gloss black Rustoleum all-in-one-paint. During the xmas break I'll get the old battery tray removed from our wagon, prep, rust-treat, paint, and install the freshly-painted replacement. I also need to treat minor surface rust beneath the car. I'll get it up on the rack, clean, then a couple of coats of Brunox, and then ColorPak Pro Series Rubberised Underseal. Finding a replacement high pressure steering line is on the todo list, as mine is weeping. And I'll work on the stereo prep. Get my 3D printer up and working, print some front speaker adaptor rings. And get some cost-effective faux-Dynamat from Aliexpress, start prepping the load area. Never-ending story, taking care of an older BMW. Still, even with just 190 bhp, the 325i touring is a fun drive. I also need to look into rebuilding Bilstein B8s. More on that soon. My thanks to Jon and Keren at Begley Motor Worx in Marton. Great professional service! Wouldn't be a big update without a punny musical reference, would it?