NZ00Z3

The E46 conversion to RF is straight forward and well documented. https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/diy-e46-retrofit-infrared-to-radio-frequency-remote-control.1047612/ Not sure about the E36 conversion?

Been there, done that. Does not work. Very frustrating. You need the Infra Red programming instructions. Attached. Infra-red key reprogamming instructions.pdf

What car are you fitting it to? I used this when I fitted the towbar to the E46. It works well. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/trailer-parts/listing-3011392114.htm?rsqid=c96668a2e7f2402782e1a41d20d3aeb5-001 There is also one for Canbus systems. Don't know anything about it though. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/other-accessories/listing/3009990178?bof=7u7c0lVl

On the Z3 forums, lots of the UK owners are getting their steering wheels refurbished or modified by Royal https://royalsteeringwheels.com/ They have a great reputation. The USA owners are starting to follow and use the same firm. It would mean shipping your steering wheel to the UK and not being about to use the car for a while. But it is an option depending on your repair/restoration/cost objectives.

In the E46 world, we are seeing more of these DME pin contamination events. It is usually put down to a sensor leaking coolant or oil through the sensor and into the electrical connection. The fluid then migrates up to the DME to cause havoc with the DME pins. Usually connector X60003 on the MS43 DME. If this is your situation, check the electrical connectors of all sensors to see if one is passing fluid and is the root cause. You don't want to have to do the repair again in a years time because the leaking sensor is still doing its nasty work.

Yes, KYB Excel-G have a good reputation in the Z3 world for an OE type of ride.

I've been buying Meyle shocks and struts from MillAnd in Dunedin for the Z3's that pass through my workshop. Last set in Feb 2018 where $115 ex GST each. They are OK and comparable with the originals. If your Z3 is a Jap import, you'll likely find that it is fitted with M Sport suspension. Check your build spec. It's a 12 mm drop from the standard suspension. The correct shocks/struts for it are only available through BMW and are eye wateringly expensive. Just fit standard shocks/struts.

Welcome to the forum. The E86 is a great looking car. Black with red interior is a nice combination.

My trips around that trail were over 40 years ago. It was a different time in the Wairarapa. People in town had just started to lock their doors. Farmers never did lock their doors. A lock gate was the exception. There was normally are gun (22 or shot gun) behind the back door at farm houses so it was handy to sort out the rabbits and magpies. I travelled the Wairarapa extensively at that time as an appliance serviceman/electrician. A CF Bedford van on gravel roads was always fun.

Welcome back. Nice looking car. If you are into going for Sunday cruises with other BMW's keep an eye on the Christchurch group in the meetings forum. There is a regular monthly run. Check out the next one here.

MAF testing is difficult to understand

There is a side creek that is easy and the main river has a swing bridge on it, although one end has a very very steep approach. There is also a rock ledge across the road that you drop over (about 200 mm) about 3/4 of the way in, not knowing if you can get back up it on the way out. Thankfully there was a route on the river side that allowed me to crawl out without leaving my sump or front air dam behind.

My bike days are over. Now I'm out there doing it in my Z3. Try it with 115mm of ground clearance. Been some amazing places out in the Central Otago wilderness. Did the west end of the old Dundas road. Been to the the end of Skippers Cannon. Photos of the Central Otago wilderness and the end of Skipper's.

If it was a lean condition, I would agree with you Brent. Its a rich condition, so not enough air, too much fuel or a stuffed sensor fooling the DME into thinking its one of the first two. As the problem is present on both banks, fuel trims come to near zero when the car is idled, I looking at sensors more than leaking injectors etc.

I'm chasing a rich (negative fuel trim) issue on my 2.0L Z3 with a M52TUB20 engine. The long term trims sit around -5.4% to -6.5% after being out for a drive. Let the car sit and idle for 15 minutes and the long term trims drop back to near zero. So, something changes when you are out driving it. Original airbox with new filter. Original O2 sensors. car has done 119,000 miles. Drives fine, no perceived lost of power. Thinking it could be the MAF. It has the common 3 wire MAF, Siemens 5WK9605 used on all of the M52TUB's and many M54's. A new VDO MAF is $350, so really want to know if it is the MAF before buying one. So, how do you test a MAF? Remember we are looking at a 5-6% error at 3,000 rpm when doing 100 kmph.

Yes, I did the Ngawi to White Rock ride a few times in my youth back in the 80's on Honda XR 250's and 500's. Lots of fun, but you did need to take extra fuel with you. It was a bit like going in the other direction and doing the Ocean Beach to Esatborne beach ride. There was a locked gate at the Eastborne end. Time it for low tide and you just went around it on the beach.

Hi I'm deep into doing some testing on my 2000 323i. It would be great if I had a OBD2 scanner or other device with logging functions that would accept an external voltage signal, say 0 to 5V DC or 0 to 12V DC as well as OBD2 PID's. Being able to log them all into one table with the same timestamps would be excellent. I can't seem to find one. Have any of you come across such a device?

Do you have pins 7 and 8 on the OBD2 connector shorted? You need this to talk to modules other than the DME and EGS.

Yes he's dreaming. It's even 5 to 10k too high if it was a N.Z. new Z3M with the S50B32.

I have a Foxwell NT530 scanner with BMW software. Around NZ$400 on TradeMe. Works well for a handheld scanner. It also talks OBD1/ADS for those with the older BMW's. I got it for this reason. Some of the early Z3's I see are still partly OBD1/ADS. I use INPA running on a Windows 10 surface pro for the majority of my stuff.

5DF5- Control unit internal error. Yep, time for another ABS module. I haven't had to work on a Mini yet, but know that INPA talks to them as does my Foxwell NT530 with BMW software. So, the process of changing the ABS unit should be the same as for a BMW. 1) Take the part numbers off your existing ABS unit and go shopping for a second hand unit. Only get one with the same part numbers. 2) Install the ABS unit. For some BMW's you only need to swap the electronic box. This means you can leave all of the brake pipes alone and avoid having to bleed the car. Don't know if that's the case for the Mini? It will depend on access and the type of ABS module used. 3) Code the ABS module to the car. NSCExpert is the software tool to use. It comes as part of the INPA software pack, which is free from various places on the interweb. Load INPA onto a Windows laptop. You need the Special USB-OBD2 cable which is cheap. Here is one source https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2184573-The-Z3-Diagnostics-Thread-Instructions-Experiences-Discussions-Experimentation

I have done many E36 and Z3 control arm bushings at home. Removal Take hammer and metal chisel and bend the metal rim of the bushing in towards the center. Do this in 4 places around the perimeter. This reduces the amount of metal rim in contact with the lollie pop. Open the vice to support the lollie pop and hammer the old bushing out. Hit on the deformed side. It pops out with a couple of blows. Installation Line up the two alignment nubs, one on the lollie pop and the other on the bushing. Use a vice to start and press in the new bushing. Little by little while you move the lollie pop around in 45 degree turns. This ensures that the bushing is going in straight. Press it in until the new bushing is flush with the far face of the lollie pop. Open the vice and insert a spacer that will support the lollie pop but not touch the bushing. Do the final few pressing turns to push the bushing through the lolie pop so that it is proud by 3 to 5 mm (even on both faces of the lollie pop). I use an old wheel bearing tapped race as my spacer.

BMW has done it to other models too. The standard Z3 has a 2.7 turn to turn ratio, one of the fastest for a BMW. The Z3M has a standard E36 rack, which is slower. Why? The interweb/forum logic is that the Standard Z3 is for normal road speeds. Whereas the Z3M is likely to be track/performance driven and the fast rack at high speeds becomes dangerous. Don't know if that's BMW's thinking or not.

I use Ados F38 High Temperature contact adhesive because it can withstand 176 degrees C for Z3 leather dash repairs. How hot will it be under the bonnet? Look at the your selected glue spec sheet to see its temp rating.

I'm as good as gold. Well and truly recovered, no ongoing meds, happy family, good life and lots of BMW's to play with. There is always a good life at the end of the crap. Family is key. You just have to weather the storm with the best support you can find.