Eagle

LPSR purple tag - The used one he send me had a preload issue so he gave me a discount on a new rack with his rebuilt one. CMP front brace - Was debating whether to install it but ive never used the fold down seats since owning the car so i figured why not. Haven't really pushed it hard since installing as i need a alignment but it appear to give at least a subtle improvement in rear end feel. Meyle HD bushings - Only found out recently looking in the Bentley manual that there is a distance spec for these to be fitted (~289mm +\-1mm from inner ball joint to rubber bushing). Mine had been re-used which wasn't ideal and weren't pressed on near enough. I made a similar tool to proper ones to ensure i got them on properly this time around. Ive always felt the car wasn't as stable and lacked steering feel it should have and this was very likely the main cause. Even with the wheel alignment off its day and night especially combined with the above tweaks.

E46 'vert front underbrace, a part i didn't know i wanted until i spotted it, always annoyed me the most E46's dont have a factory jack pad. This vert brace is reinforced\heavier than your std one and namely has a suitable round dimple\hole to mount my own pad on into. I used a X8R E46 jacking pad reduced to a round press fit and some Sikaflex for insurance, the E46 M3 jacking pad may also work?. Such a great QoL improvement that i wish i had done ages ago.

After donating a Dinan CAI to @Vass we had to figure out what parts they used for their additional cold air source since they dont sell them easy. I know Dinan use alot of OE parts for their mods so i eventually closed in on the likely parts. A quick confirmation with Vass concluded they were indeed E39 6 cylinder airbox boots\grommets. I decided to semi mod mine to re-create theirs after i found some suitable pipe from NZ safety. An additional cold air source cant hurt and im not exactly sure why BMW did not source it from there like the M3 etc, possibly a space or cost issue. Pictures basically explain it, grommet pops out the airbox so its easily removable from the car. As far as temperature goes i didn't do enough logging in varying circumstances to say whether i has a measurable reduction, it wasnt apparent in normal highway driving with a 20 degree air temp and 30-35 IAT with both setups. For what its worth IAT temp reading was only ~5 degrees hotter than ambient air temperature with this installed once you pushed a bit past stuff the license speeds.

Around the same time last year i did a 4 runs with Draggy out of interest, so id thought a do a few more under similar conditions. @Harper mentioned NPD100 so thought id give it a go instead of the Gull 98 in previous runs. Other changes with these runs are the TMS O\D pulleys, wheels\tyres, M52 manifold, cleaner engine and launching in 'M-track mode(thought had DSC disabled for some reason). Previous 0-100 was 6.59s and 14.8s 1\4. No doubt there is 6.XX and 14.XX with improvements and more runs, but at least its in lower end of the spec range now.

Biggest issue for me would be the used auto box gamble. You'd probably do a service, mechatronic seals etc and probably a few drain and fills so that's another $700-800 on top. Then you kinda have to hope the rest is ok because they do have quite a few potential faults that can occur. Getting one from a damaged working car or something the you can at least test drive, check adaption values and fluid condition would be good, or even having it inspected\rebuilt.

What did they think the issue was?

OE ones seem to last 20+ years and were probably heat cycled far more often being a new car at one point,. To me the issue with the aftermarket metal ones is the usual quality control gamble. They are quite a new product so haven't really been time tested for any other faults that may surface either. They are on Aliexpress for way cheaper atm and at that sort of price you can take the gamble.

Yeah i was going to go with these guys but their shipping seems overpriced. In hindsight should of just bit the bullet.

Usually need 2-4 drains and refills along with a new filter etc when bringing it back to a clean system. You can drain a little fluid and see how it looks. If the noise is coming from that area then id drop the pan and do a proper service, maybe worth doing one regardless.

Should be able to pinpoint the noise on a hoist etc going by your description. What's the history of transmission servicing?

Yep thanks to @Vass for buying these. Lucky (or not) he bought them and had sorted them to save someone the expense and headache of doing it. The LHD versions probably would of been cheaper to modify especially using the slim joint. Malian Exhaust / Kage Trading are easily the worst and most scummy company ive ever dealt with online. Finally got some money back a few days ago from credit card dispute after they stuffed me around in various ways for months. Too bad we didnt have a proper invoice in time to make them pay for what they really owe.

You ain't fooling anyone with those Brembo brake pad covers.

I thought the sentence is was going to be you adding one. I give credit to Japanese for not following this stupid euro trend. Does the BMW DME contain the actual litre reading in its data?

As long as there is a cat convertor in place its all legal. NZ has no emission testing so those related downsides dont worry most people. Im assuming you'd do some of tune?

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ is another decent place with reasonable shipping that keep forgetting about. Sometimes the listings for oddball stuff are NLA but they let you know straight away and refund you instantly.

If they dont stock them you could be waiting awhile to get them, ive had stuff take 2 months to arrive. Their customer service is lacking, they dont update ETA\let you know what happening if its taking longer than expected.

Penrite selector only lists BMV for 130i's (they are correct just about every time) but maybe they assuming 6HP in all cars. Either way the actual technical specs between them both are very close, probably why Max-life etc lists compatibility with many of the same manufacturer specs as the BMV and LV both include. I doubt think you'd have an issue running either tbh, the LV is cheaper and is technically spec'd for GM so its probably the better option over the BMV.

Because people keep perpetuating the myth the genuine stuff its some secret formula that you have to use otherwise you cooling system is going to fail . This is the equivalent which is $84 retail. Its a literally licensed OEM approved. Buy it on special\trade and you getting a decent discount. Another reason to buy Penrite etc stuff is you can get it pretty much anywhere in the country 7 days a week. My mates had Nylon green HOAT sitting in his E36 for over 15 years. Did a cooling system overhaul not too long ago and its perfectly clean.

Decent price. $219 too much for unknown quality.

Most of the aftermarket oils and going to be the same for both ZF and GM 6 speed. Penrite BMV is the commonly available option for both of these and you'd need a 20L container. 25k is overkill imo, dont really see the benefit for a normally used vehicle. ZF recommends 80,000km\8 years which is a good figure for a full service. You are correct you will need at least 3-4 drain and fills if the fluid is old and dirty. I usually do ~100km between each change until it looks good.

Those engines have plenty of plastics fittings\hoses etc which leak, so probably best to get it pressure tested before doing a full change\flush. Top it up with water if its low. Penrite stuff is usually the best bet

Maybe there is a small and medium then? There's a guy facebook trying to sell a X3 3.23 diff because it didnt fit his E46, turns out its a large case unlike the E46 one which is a medium in the same ratio.

I thought all 3.91 were small case? Yeah 188k measures 188mm in diameter

Yep exactly why i painted my silver and used factory locknuts, i didnt reuse the headshield but that would pretty much fail proof. Id probably just re-do it then go somewhere else and it would likely pass 1. Looks ok but as you say you don't know if an inspector is going to ping you again. @modz does a solid\slim one for 1\2 the price. 2. Dont see the point in aftermarket for the price difference given unknown quality. I paid $422 for a genuine coupler one about 1 year ago via dealership. 3. Personally i wouldn't want used given the rubber part is likely tired

I feel like these are slowly dying out and 116's-120i's are taken their place, fortunately they dont appear to be smokers.