Eagle

A couple of times to get rid of an airlock on some Japanese stuff but found our work one fiddly and not worth the hassle to use normally. I don't see the value for $ in that kit for casual use on older BMW's which are easy to do. You can get those chinese vacuum\pressure tester kits for cheaper than that which would do the job well enough and a pressure tester is more useful to have. Draining then flushing\reverse flushing with hose or hose\compressed air is much better for dirty systems, even on clean ones id still prefer it for DIY given the long change intervals.

116's are unreliable. If it were a 6 cylinder if it would of made it.

If it has EWS 2 then the relay is part of the EWS module behind the glove box. You can test it by bridging the 2 larger gauge power wires together then trying to start the car, if it cranks then you indeed have a EWS bad relay\module .

For a 5k BMW it is good buying. Classic example of service history vanishing when the new owner makes no effort to record\retain it.

Id recommend against poly in RTAB based on my experience. I found no real performance benefit, added noise and anywhere poly rotates will need to be re-lubed at some point, not something you want to do with trailing arms. I think solid mounted subframes are generally great with no major downsides, problem is on the E30 the diff is not isolated\part of it so you do run into issues especially if raising it. If you can find one on an old diff, run a OE solid rubber diff mount or even softer poly, makes a big difference in rear end control over the typical one. Adjustable toe\camber plates is worth doing if you have the subframe out and have to cert it.

I didn't think this generation of BMW's contained them but Sachs aftermarket ones may contain an internal spring. If you secure the strut body and pull on the shaft hard you should be able to overcome some of the spring tension and extend the shaft to some extent. You'd probably need 3x spring compressors to compress them enough, or just pay a shop to do it with a proper wall mounted compressor. As above Sachs are known for combining many versions into one product. I assume they do this for reducing costs but it causes issues like these along with suboptimal dampening being universal(E46 rear shocks being a good example). The genuine BMW unit would match your old one but people generally arent paying the big premium for those. Bilstein B4, Koni SRT or TRW etc have equivalent options to the Sachs aftermarket that work better. Also if you bought new front strut mounts for these then Lemforder\Boge\Sachs one tend to be a newer taller design and increase ride height. Id recommend E90 iX ones which a stronger and lower.

Yeah it looks like Sachs have done the aftermarket special and merged all the versions at some point. Have fun compressing the spring.

Wiring is completely different for models with monitors so not plug and play. Bluebus is great for audio but it doesnt really offer OBD type features. You'd have to go android with i-bus option to get those sort of things.

Shorter shafts are usually for sport suspension option which uses shorter springs. If your car doesn't have that then they are the wrong ones, bmwfans etc lists all options and you have to choose the correct one. You usually have to run the vin number to get your car options list to know what you have before hand. Not sure you could even get the spring compressed enough to get the top mount on. I'd sell them and get the correct ones if they are wrong.

They arent commonly sold but ive seen them for sale as low as 12-13k before covid\2019-2020. Hard to say exactly what its worth with no information about the car. 20k may not be a bad buy if its got proper service history and a pre-purchase check comes out decent. Its certainly not a bargain given the very low demand for these, very hard to sell. Cars like these only makes sense if you financially comfortable enough that you can pay someone to handle the repair and maintenance costs, or that you are skilled and knowledgeable enough to buy parts and perform required work yourself.

What BMW tools\software did you try to communicate with it and\or have you got? ABS communication with the old module wasn't an issue? Im assuming you are using the 20 pin connector under the hood to connect to\diagnose? Ive used NCS expert and P.A soft (BMW scanner 1.4) to recode them in the past, very simple and not hard or expensive to do yourself. If the above is true then technically that used module is compatible and should at least communicate provided it doesn't have some sort of fault. You could try a recode via NCS expert if you have that setup if that fails it could well be DOA. Getting a reman'd unit is certainly the better option, not sure who is the best outfit for that given there are many. I know there is gambling involved when trying to fix these regardless, certainly less than used units though.

You had communication with the ABS module prior to fitting the replacement? ASC or DSC? Late 1998 is when they changed over to DSC which is assume yours has? Always gone with the same number then re-code if needed. The 0 265 900 001 is the Bosch part number and the 34.526.756.342 is the BMW part numbers which translates to the Bosch number. The issue is there are different versions and updated revisions for those versions eg 1 265 900 001 for the above p\m. As above different versions arent compatible as they are physically different inside etc, maybe updated revisions can be coded if you have earlier version but not sure on this. The original part number appears to be an older ASC unit which doesn't make sense if you have DSC. The BMW module part number for your car (34516769536) is slightly different compared to the unit you have bought, but still seem to share the the same main Bosch part number so should technically work with at least a re-code.

He was\is on Bimmersport

If your goals include money pits then it sounds like you are well on track

Pretty sure they are just a press fit last time I did one, maybe not pushed on enough. Smoke tester is a requirement for VAG products when looking for vacuum leaks. Yeah VAG make way too variations. Should be able to get the vin number and plug it into a catelogue some where.

Had 2 of these common in recently for rear main seal failure/vacuum leak, not a cheap fix. I'd be changing the pcv if it hasn't been done.

Tend to go for Erling gaskets but used Victor Reinz ones plenty on M30 and M20 engines, like you said been around forever . There was a bad batch of them many many years ago, but not sure if that was localized to M30 engined ones or not, probably a non issue.

Nope but the design looks subpar which is probably compounded by the lack of elongated holes.

VDO\Continental make a few different ones, not as cheap as they used to be though.I put a TR7412UB in my old Mercedes which matched quite well.

Yeah i drove the box before and after so felt like it was worth it at the time, paid in upper 300's NZD iirc. Probably depends on the box too, some maybe better than others. Just doing the 5th is with new shifter\shifter bushings is still going get most of the way to peak OE setup.

Yeah @Vass would likely lend them out for cheap. Not sure what the part prices are like these days, but Schmeidmann was much cheaper than all the US places when i did mine.

Detents done? Worth doing imo for improved shift quality

I think we all knew it was something along those lines. Still dont agree with the deleting on the thread though.

Indeed. Only so much a 530i is worth regardless of how good it is, may get 20k, but probably closer to 15k in reality. Id say he will be keeping it at that price especially with those wheels.

The half leather\half M-texture is what id take given a choice, i think M5 only or custom in E39 but in my E36 compact its great, best of both worlds.