Eagle

Those were great

Only really used it back in the day when their prices were noticeably cheaper than Repco with different\better products. Now days their stuff is largely average quality at best, specials arent even that great besides oil (which can be stocked up and goes on sale plenty) and everything priced the same as Repco, typical shareholder business model. Anything else you get cheaper at other local suppliers or overseas. Some of the markup these guy put on retail products is absurd, id rather support overseas companies directly than middlemen Australians.

Assuming you going to cert it then doing adjustable toe\camber brackets could be a good idea while everything is out,. Bit of a hassle but could well pay off if the arms arent perfect and you are lowering it.

Did you happen to get a wheel alignment before all this work? E30's trailing arms aren't strong and bent especially given their age

For starters the 3rd photo shows a missing torx screw on the LHS, don't know where that is gone, are you sure there is nothing stuck on the in between the horn plate? Failing id re-seat all the connections and the ground, then there should be a connector under the lower steering wheel shroud the goes to the clock spring, if you disconnect that and it stops then its clock spring, wheel or wiring issue in the steering wheel area.

Min to max mark on dipsticks are 1L so each bar is approx 200ml. If you have 2 bars remaining you then adding about 500ml should bring it to max.

Welcome. Looks like your well prepared to handle it.

8k seems excessive, probably doing it the long way. Someone who has proper tools and done the job before should be much cheaper, there was a thread in 2018 which the job cost someone ~$3000. Obviously prices have gone up since then and part brands can vary the price some what, but pays to shop around as they were quoted $5000 to do it via another workshop. There is another Wellington member @Spinner99 who did the job in that thread and bought tools so maybe he can help you out.

Facebook groups are probably the most active, Simply BMW probably being the main one. Official BMW NZ club is also reasonably active. It's mostly meet ups and cruises which is fine but personaly I found gets stale after awhile.

Haha, is this is first rodeo or something?. Fully restored in his dreams along with the asking price.

Hey welcome back. Yeah i do recall ive met you at some point. Not 100% sure but didn't you or your partner buy my E39 540i msport manual ages ago Sadly the community is pretty dead like most forums these days.

What a tool. No surprise its rolling on Hifly tyres either.

Yeah i cant see it being worth even half that for a modified converted 318i, trying to recoup costs pricing. Who knows how good mechanically it is either as most of what he's listed is cosmetic stuff that isn't for everyone. As above nothing looks very meticulously done either which for the price isn't realistic even during peak covid times.

With the amount of ideas they have stolen over the years i dont think anyone would care My SMG has both of them for a reference. I wish i didnt delete my exhaust flap, i have a feeling that would of help with my resonance in ~2k range. Im pretty sure all my have been Mahle ones on any BMW with plastic housings Getting flashbacks of VW's when going in for a simple bulb change. Liquid tape can help to some degree but its a bit messy. Re-wiring is the only proper fix. Must a be a wagon thing at the point, more insulated with exhaust further away?

A couple of times to get rid of an airlock on some Japanese stuff but found our work one fiddly and not worth the hassle to use normally. I don't see the value for $ in that kit for casual use on older BMW's which are easy to do. You can get those chinese vacuum\pressure tester kits for cheaper than that which would do the job well enough and a pressure tester is more useful to have. Draining then flushing\reverse flushing with hose or hose\compressed air is much better for dirty systems, even on clean ones id still prefer it for DIY given the long change intervals.

116's are unreliable. If it were a 6 cylinder if it would of made it.

If it has EWS 2 then the relay is part of the EWS module behind the glove box. You can test it by bridging the 2 larger gauge power wires together then trying to start the car, if it cranks then you indeed have a EWS bad relay\module .

For a 5k BMW it is good buying. Classic example of service history vanishing when the new owner makes no effort to record\retain it.

Id recommend against poly in RTAB based on my experience. I found no real performance benefit, added noise and anywhere poly rotates will need to be re-lubed at some point, not something you want to do with trailing arms. I think solid mounted subframes are generally great with no major downsides, problem is on the E30 the diff is not isolated\part of it so you do run into issues especially if raising it. If you can find one on an old diff, run a OE solid rubber diff mount or even softer poly, makes a big difference in rear end control over the typical one. Adjustable toe\camber plates is worth doing if you have the subframe out and have to cert it.

I didn't think this generation of BMW's contained them but Sachs aftermarket ones may contain an internal spring. If you secure the strut body and pull on the shaft hard you should be able to overcome some of the spring tension and extend the shaft to some extent. You'd probably need 3x spring compressors to compress them enough, or just pay a shop to do it with a proper wall mounted compressor. As above Sachs are known for combining many versions into one product. I assume they do this for reducing costs but it causes issues like these along with suboptimal dampening being universal(E46 rear shocks being a good example). The genuine BMW unit would match your old one but people generally arent paying the big premium for those. Bilstein B4, Koni SRT or TRW etc have equivalent options to the Sachs aftermarket that work better. Also if you bought new front strut mounts for these then Lemforder\Boge\Sachs one tend to be a newer taller design and increase ride height. Id recommend E90 iX ones which a stronger and lower.

Yeah it looks like Sachs have done the aftermarket special and merged all the versions at some point. Have fun compressing the spring.

Wiring is completely different for models with monitors so not plug and play. Bluebus is great for audio but it doesnt really offer OBD type features. You'd have to go android with i-bus option to get those sort of things.

Shorter shafts are usually for sport suspension option which uses shorter springs. If your car doesn't have that then they are the wrong ones, bmwfans etc lists all options and you have to choose the correct one. You usually have to run the vin number to get your car options list to know what you have before hand. Not sure you could even get the spring compressed enough to get the top mount on. I'd sell them and get the correct ones if they are wrong.

They arent commonly sold but ive seen them for sale as low as 12-13k before covid\2019-2020. Hard to say exactly what its worth with no information about the car. 20k may not be a bad buy if its got proper service history and a pre-purchase check comes out decent. Its certainly not a bargain given the very low demand for these, very hard to sell. Cars like these only makes sense if you financially comfortable enough that you can pay someone to handle the repair and maintenance costs, or that you are skilled and knowledgeable enough to buy parts and perform required work yourself.

What BMW tools\software did you try to communicate with it and\or have you got? ABS communication with the old module wasn't an issue? Im assuming you are using the 20 pin connector under the hood to connect to\diagnose? Ive used NCS expert and P.A soft (BMW scanner 1.4) to recode them in the past, very simple and not hard or expensive to do yourself. If the above is true then technically that used module is compatible and should at least communicate provided it doesn't have some sort of fault. You could try a recode via NCS expert if you have that setup if that fails it could well be DOA. Getting a reman'd unit is certainly the better option, not sure who is the best outfit for that given there are many. I know there is gambling involved when trying to fix these regardless, certainly less than used units though.