Eagle

Well that sucks. As you said its hard to diagnose in that area and you've had so much work done. Guess the problem is now that you were certain it was the real main seal you removed the box, as you say you can't start the engine (was thinking starter bolts to engine for some dumb reason). Bore scope come in very handy for situations like these, but i think could still visually check it with the right angle, maybe with some stuff removed. Oil pool under the crankshaft sensor i would say coming from that, dont see how that much oil could get there if you can feel anything from obvious from above. Oil does tend to wick a little so that may explain the small amount on the on the bell housing plate. You might be right about multiple leaks. As you say it could be a machining issue or a gasket failure. I id think start with the crank sensor since that the easiest and make sure no other external leaks from above. It that checks out then it has to be something to do with the gasket or seal surface around that pan area (engine out job i would assume)

Cleaned then checked for straightness is the standard procedure.

I think you may of misread the rear size

Speed cameras have proven very profitable for minimal setup costs, you can keep lowering the tolerance for more revenue safety when the road toll doesn't meet your expectations. Gotta start paying back all that new national debt somehow. Amazing what a govt can achieve under the guise of 'safety'.

Yeah the E85\E86 shares subframes etc with the E46.

Yeah im already running the 25mm Z4 front bar and 19mm rear. Nice subtle tweak.

As i found out they messed with the sizes on the sedans and coupes around April '01. Everything incl msport went 23.5\18mm.

Did you use the early msport swaybars? 24mm front and 19mm rear

Just light curbing? Many places offer machining and re-coating services for them (Diamond cut). Probably degrees of quality depending on their setups. Id sell them as soon the tyres wore out and get some normal painted wheels. Easy to fix and are more durable, another dumb modern trend.

They looked pretty good when i sent it to you but may not of been completely retracted. The springs can move in certain conditions, probably more likely when doing it up. They used to come with a set with a locking plate that you removed after installing the pressure plate, seems they don't ship with that anymore. Suppose to use a special tool when doing them up, given the cost of it i doubt it's common though.

All good. Dont need the EWS wire anyway.

Damn that's bad alright, something must be really fubar. Sealant on the base and edges? Your machine shop done any work there? Installed flush is fine, maybe its not quite even or somehow damaged during install. On the bright side at least with a leak like that you can run it up on stands to see when the box is off being manual. Self adjusting clutches dont have the best feel, but if the springs aren't set properly or moved during install it would probably feel weird im guessing. Think i pm'd you about that when i sold it to you?. You will have to reset it now anyway since you are taking off the flywheel. Hope you got a big 3 jaw.

Foam in the RHS lower bolster was starting to cave in at the top. Many SR seats use the same piece and its easily available from the Capital Seating in the UK for ~$160. Very little effort and straight forward to replace so why not. The SR3 seems to be getting more comfortable so im sticking with it for now. Will try it again on some 1hr+ drives.

It did occur to me that some woman logic may be on display, but i thought it may simply be a case of needing some re-education on peak BMW design.

If it has a plastic head on then give it a try.

Does she need glasses? They almost look the same.

What does on its way out mean? If the actual pump is dying then you'd need a good 2nd hand or new one, the rebuild kits are just seals.

Likely wiring. Had a similar issue myself with the pin 7 wire. If its not showing in INPA no cruise and rev hang are expected.

Maybe try re-align the EWS then, may of gone out sync. Seems odd the module or key would suddenly fail given you had it running all good before swapping?

ABS rhythmically clicking when ignition on is normal

Yeah you are right the ABS wont cause starting issues. The EU2 flash shouldn't have the idiot feature present 'aka clutch in to start', that's was for dumb American's at the time. There is a menu in BM scanner 1.4 (EWS reprogramming i think) which should have a no clutch option you can change to (may already be on it) Im not sure BM scanner worked for me when showing clutch switch activation. What does INPA say in MS43. Shadow codes can be ignored. Most cars seem to have some present. I don't think you would of missed anything but maybe recheck all the grounds are present and tight, starter cables etc. Guessing cleared adaptions? I have a spare DME with no EWS if you get stuck

Got the cover panel installed. Went to Mosen's here in Hamilton and Kerry let me cut it out. Wasn't easy getting a cutting it out with a clean cut, there are spot and mig welds along the edge and tools weren't the best for job. I also had to cut it in half and joint in when welding it in. I thought id try one of those air nibblers which are good as they don't distort the metal, not the most precise\neat things for trimming edges so i messed up cut too much off in some spots. When it's seam sealed and hidden it's not a big deal given its only a cosmetic panel. Sedan\touring have strenthening? indentations on the ends, coupe panels dont. If i had to do it all again i dont think id bother with the rear brace, im not convinced the benefit is worth the labour for this car. The front brace and the rear chassis legs are much less invasive to prep and install and fix the issue especially weaker fronts. You do see evidence of the front brace from the boot (trim raised due to spare) but if you have the liner then its basically hidden

Extensive service history.........yep.

Yeah CMP are the cheapest on market too. Hopefully they back in stock when you want them.

Yeah once the solid subframe mounts are in its done in suspension dept. Besides better dampers, i can't think any other tweaks that will yield much of an increase without deviating too much from the factory ride and needing certs. Custom springs & dampers to dial it in to suit would be great, but the cost wouldn't be worth it for a car like this. TRW's perform decent on these springs and are that cheap that you can replace them every 50,000km.