Eagle

Sounds ok on the scanner front then. Is the car a jap import? They did fit a OEM or genuine sensor? The cam sensor fault may of been masking the current one or caused the current one, maybe something else malfunctioning but not throwing a code but causing the transmission to act up, maybe someone the disturbed sensor wiring etc when working on it. Are you saying the knock fault code appears in engine computer but triggers the transmission light,limp mode etc but with no fault code in the transmission computer?. Your description of what its doing and when is hard for me to follow but internet diagnosis with problems like these isn't very good i'm afraid Either way make id sure all the ignition system is functioning properly first, check the sensors, wiring and plugs for components etc

Depends on source of said tap water.

What are you scanning it with?

General rule - Unless an old BMW its been owned by a true enthusiast (typically one that can do work themselves) its going have lots of issues present.

If you can't do the work yourself then having a warranty looks like good value for money if the car has no history.

Out of interest what an average mechanical warranty cost on one of these? Id think with all the well known issues around BMW cooling systems, leaks etc they would have all that priced in so the wouldn't be exactly cheap. But maybe that's not the case judging from other posts ive seen?

Had many dreams about putting my M120 into a 5 series. Such great engine.

Did you do clean the idle valve as well?

Just drained did a bit of cooling system work on my friends M44 which had been filled with the Nulon LL (HOAT) for over 10 years. Looked very clean inside. Probably use Zerex G-05 from Partmaster when i refill it as its the same price.

Yeah its a gamble isnt it, you don't know what its really like to open it up to see what really required, i don't know how good the sprockets hold up either if its been left too long. If it was picked up quickly enough id think you'd likely get away with just the guides seals, tensioner kit and not have to worry about chain removal. That would simplify things in regards to tools and time needed.

Depends what you mean by cheap and what the car is worth if its fixed. IIRC the full timing chain kit it self was $1000-$1500 depending on how far you go + shipping and taxes. Then you need to buy or borrow the timing tools and have the tools and time to do the rest of the required work.

Very nice. Always liked the idea of a 7 series manual purely for uniqueness. Have seen a couple of factory E32 manuals here for sale a very long time ago.

Yep one of the reason ive never bought anything that was too quick. Just a 5 min drive to hit top speeds limiters around here.

Out of balance would cause vibrations. Bad bearings usually cause rumble which decreases in volume when turning left or right. Id check the wheels bolts are tight first but once its jacked up it should be easy to pinpoint when spinning the wheels. Could be a bad tyre or even something is rubbing on wheel.

As much as i can respect big power figures there is a point where its just overkill for your average legal usage here in NZ. Sport bikes are a good examples as the only place you can fully utilize them is the track.

K's are no issue at all as long its in good nick. Its probably better getting a higher k example as it would be cheaper than those low k garage queen types that go for 20k+, either way you are going to be paying up for a mtech2. You may or may not need some head work over 300,000km but these are simple and cheap cars to run compared to all that came after. Appreciating assets are always good to have.

Yeah to the horns which would mainly be all the connections, grounds etc on and behind the steering wheel. PM me your email and ill send it thru.

Would think its more likely the connection but its possible it just died with these cars being old. There is hole above the indicator lens in which you stick a long flat screw driver down to release the corners. I can email a copy of the E34 Bentley manual which give you a step by step.

Not big differences in power relative to the displacement but they changed fuel injection systems and made better head designs over the years. E12 platform is like the E21 platform, inferior whilst offer no advantages.

Been close do buying a couple of early E24's over the years but the E12 platfom is just too dated from a performance and availability point. Its looks nice but "82+ or bust for me.

Was it a genuine one? If so that's some bad luck.

By failed do mean the actual t-stat got stuck closed or plastic housing\gasket ?

I wouldnt run 0-50W either but it would be much better than 20W-50 (must be a mistake)

Cant speak for a turbo application part but lots members here running the above Penrite in many BMW engines with good results. Ive used in most BMW's ive owned and can't fault it.

Yes ive tried most of the RE and PS range in 17" sizes on E34's and E39's over the years. 17x8" are the ideal E34 wheel in my book - look good, cheapest tyres and give a good handling\comfort balance. Getting harder and more expensive to get good selection in those 16" tyre sizes so you may have to stick to RE003 or try PS3's as PS4's may not be available