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@B.M.W Ltd you said it hadn't even had it's first oil change yet. What are the service intervals for these? Hyundai is doing some nice blues nowadays.

Thanks again for the chat @B.M.W Ltd. My interest in cars is fairly recent and I'm still learning, so I really do appreciate people like you going out of your way to give me advice. @M3AN Thanks again for the offer. After giving it some more thought for now I'm going to hold off on flashing the car until I've done a bit more research and sorted any potential issues with the battery or other components.

Very good point from @B.M.W Ltd there - something I was warned about when I put a fully aluminium radiator in but had since forgotten. Don't offer it up as a possible explanation though.

It was a slow leak but yep, once it got low if made funky sounds. Got the rack back in... wouldn't say it slid right in but a little bit of 'encouragement' sorted it... about 1.6 turns from centre to lock on each side so I think it's close enough to correct. Tie rods and temp alignment with a measuring tape and string tomorrow before a trip to a proper shop next week... assuming no leaks! Thanks to @B.M.W Ltd, @C-130 Hercules and @aja540i for chiming in so quickly with your helpful advice!

I believe it is inoperable but I haven't tried to start it since trying to flash today. Might start in a limp mode. I have lots of decent Android phones I could test. Like my s8 but it seems that you have to do more than just have the same Gmail on the phone to use the modules already purchased. One of the other guys @Benji335i mentioned transferring the account. @B.M.W Ltd before when it was showing the voltage on the app it was saying 11.9v with a charger on, now it shows only 0 volts via app. I checked directly with voltmeter AMD said I had 12.6-8v . Which did seem lower than people online. But even with my brand new battery was the same with 710CCA as well.

This has probably been discussed before, but - Who is recommended? Specifically for the E91 330 that the wife drives, it needs someone to look after it long term. Previous place dumped oil down the side of the engine on the last service, made a mess and stunk. Only noticed when I took it for a drive and went wtf are you driving this like this for...) Ive just cleaned it up and the underbody covers havent been off in years (corroded siezed fasteners etc). I dont have the time to look after 3 cars, so farming this one out is the plan More than happy to pay someone for the extra 15min to do a decent job. Edit - @B.M.W Ltd - Is Wayne still in the BMW fixing industry?

I know, I know @B.M.W Ltd - as it is guys have kinda depressed me on a day I’ve been looking forward to for a week with the constant barrage of negative comments about the N42.. I get it ?

BTW... I'm sorry admin / owners. I can't remove info and advertising on my signature or website information on my account here and on B.M.W Ltd which is one of my concerns that hasn't been dealt with

I'm just letting everyone know, Botany Motor Worx Ltd (B.M.W Ltd) has withdrawn it's sponsorship on the forum. I'll still be here from time to time though as *Glenn* Wish all you guys the best with your enthusiasm and comradery over the years and I'll still enjoy reading all your exploits and help where I can...

You think you've got problems. I can't search using this account and I can't even log in on my sponsorship account B.M.W. Ltd. No one seems to respond to my request for help.

If you are trying to get hold of me PM me here or go to my website. Please don't try using my B.M.W.Ltd sponsorship account as I can't access it or reply to notifications on that account. To curryinahurry (Andrew) please try again thanks

The sponsors profiles have been a cock up since the change over Jeff. What you describe for settings (username) is not available under settings in my sponsor profile (B.M.W Ltd). But it is under this profile

B.M.W Ltd (Botany Motor Worx) Ph: (09) 2722546 Glen Osbourne cnr Ormiston Rd and Te Irirangi Dr, behind the BP.

latest update. finally found some time to get the oil consumption looked at by BMW (i live 5 minutes from Jerry Clayton lol). as predicted by @B.M.W LTD rocker cover gasket, valve seal, vacuum pump gasket and oil filter housing gaskets are all contributing to the oil consumption/leaks. i'm so thankful i put money into that autosure warranty - i didn't expect them to cover seal/gasket leaks but they do and i only have to pay my excess for a major piece of work that going to put the car in the shop for 3 days.

I think there is a fair bit on this forum and online about how poor (and expensive to maintain) that engine is. Ask forum sponsor Glenn (B.M.W. Ltd)... He will tell you all you need to know, and if that doesn't convince you to look for something else he can also do a faultless PPI.

OK, the oil change is done! By god that was an ordeal though. The whole slabs-of-wood thing was a total ball-ache as I knew it would be, and resulted in a sub-optimal draining because I couldn't get the back raised as much as the front (I stuffed up on the jack specs). On the upside, I did manage to get the front high enough to fit my axle stands underneath as failsafes (i.e. not positioned in a good spot to take actual load, but sitting underneath a strong enough point to save my life, albeit it would do a bit of damage to the underbelly pan but that'd still beat having my skull crushed). Things I learned: The oil was pretty dirty. Not the worst I've seen (i.e. when I was a teenager with no income and my old beater cars would have pretty nasty black looking waste oil). Don't know what the last owner's mechanics put in it, or if they just lied and didn't change the oil... but if I believe their windscreen sticker then the oil was changed only 6200km ago. Seems a bit suss to me. Maybe the previous owner flogged it particularly hard or tracked it. I also noticed when I drained my oil drain pan that it seemed like the bottom layer of oil on the bottom of the pan was particularly viscous compared to the rest of the waste oil I'd poured out. Hard to know as it had had 2 hours worth of cooling. I stuffed up when I bought the smaller jack (I went for a 1350kg one for using on the rear of the car, mainly out of stupid cheapskatedness) - I thought its max lifting height was the same as my bigger jack, but I mis-read the label - its max height is 50mm lower. So that meant I couldn't get more than 1 wood-slab under the rear wheels, and that meant the rear of the car was 90mm lower than the front. As I waited for the oil to finish draining, I thought about ways to get the back end level with the front, thought of a couple of ways, and nearly tried one before realising that as I had no wheel-chocks, it would be suicidal as the rear would be off the blocks momentarily and the car could (worst-case) roll forward or backward. The garage floor is level, but who wants to take the risk? (and stupid of me for not buying chocks in any case). I was surprised how far down that filter-housing cavity goes (the small 8-10mm hole that holds a seemingly infinitely deep pool of old oil. Next time I'll get a turkey-baster. Even though today's lifting method didn't optimally drain the sumps completely, now that I know how bad the old oil was, I'm still glad I did it. I'm going on a road trip WLG to AKL early next week and I couldn't find any (competent) mechanics who could change the oil before then - so this is still a better situation than I was in before hopefully. Other stuff I did - I pre-filled the oil filter housing with a similar amount of fresh oil to the amount of old oil that I'd had to soak up. I also primed the oil filter with fresh oil. I filled it with 8.6L of oil, didn't go for the full 8.8L as I estimate that there might be 100mL still lurking in the sump due to the back end being lower than the front, and I figured I'd probably put about 100mL into the filter housing and the filter itself when priming it. I've never hated the no-dipstick thing more, than when I had to start the engine!! It's a real moment of truth eh! But unlike some of the Youtube videos of this oil change, where their engine makes a pretty horrid rattle for a few seconds after initial startup, mine sounded fine.. So I took it for a (ridiculously gentle) drive then when the oil was hot enough and the iDrive started saying "measuring oil level", found a flat level street and idled whilst it did that. And boom, I got it pretty spot on - it's exactly halfway between min and max, with no warnings to add more. I turned the engine off on that same flat street, oil at approx 100ºC and restarted it to get another measurement - same result. Drove it back home and tidied everything up. Started it again to put it in the garage and let it take another reading - same result. Will give it a few days then add another 200mL or so to see if I can get it closer to the max line (if only to dilute that old crappy ~100mL of oil I couldn't get out!) So the main lesson learned is that my way was a sucky way to do it, but that I'm still glad I got it done so my car has at least 98% fresh oil in it, and a fresh filter - better than nothing, and really great to break the seal on this job, which I was finding daunting - it's so different changing the oil on a high tech expensive (for me) vehicle like this, compared to the old dungers I worked on in my teens and twenties. Service-time is coming up in a months or so, so I'll get the oil changed again then, and that should hopefully get the last of the previous owner's crappy oil out. I know it probably seems retarded to change the oil so soon before a service, but I knew the old oil would be sh** and I didn't want to torture my new baby any longer, given that I'm going on a 2000km road trip. Thanks heaps for all the pointers about jacking - the fact that I went ahead and did it my way anyway does *not* mean that I dismissed or didn't value your advice - I specifically posted about my jacking plans to get your valuable feedback (and avoid death). I took it all onboard and thought carefully about your suggestions but was constrained mainly due to timeframes vs availability of better jacks/etc. I think next time I want to be able to get it onto 4x axle stands, to get more of the oil out. Will check out those links @B.M.W Ltd - cheers. Thankyou all for your help and for making it all the way through this long post ?

Thank you B.M.W Ltd. The dealer just contacted me and offered to have it fixed at a mechanic close to me. Good on them! Hopefully they can diagnose it with no CEL!

@B.M.W Ltd 2015 Mv Agusta F3 800 (180kg | 148HP) 2010 Aprilia RS125 (126kg | unknown HP - modified, yet to get on a dyno - Hoping for low 40's) 1998 Aprilia RS250 (150KG | 75HP) - ex-racebike if you've been to any of the caffeine and classic meets on the shore you will have seen the mv and rs250 hovering around the 125 has been awaiting a few rogue parts from the UK for a few months now @J~~ Thanks! Been given a few names to call so will be getting onto that this week!

@Jacko i'm on AW11 #3. I don't learn! Though now the m3 is in the picture, some of the toys gotta go and there's NO chance in hell that the Italians will get the boot! @qube He'd probably have told me to buzz off with the offer I made. @B.M.W Ltd The guy I purchased it off was named Jason. He owned it for 5 years. There was an owner of 5.5yrs before him but he blacked out his name on most of the paperwork. I believe his name was Ben. Before that the car cycled through about 10 dealerships. Hope this helps!

If I sign in under my sponsorship account, sign out, it won't let me sign in under *Glenn* it keeps reverting back to B.M.W Ltd or vice versa, and I have to close it down and reopen before it will even allow me to even post

I have a 1988 B.M.W. M20B20 with 217,XXXKms. Comes complete with injectors, intake, head, block, sump. Distributor cap and rotor has some corrosion on the contact points so these won't be any good. It came out of a running car. I also have other parts and an auto 4 speed gear box I can throw in if you want them.

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Ray is indeed a top notch bloke! Always helped out and always keen to give things a go! I also very highly recommend Glenn at B.M.W. Ltd, Knows bmw's inside and out and you can trust that his work is 100% up to standards with no short cuts taken!

@B.M.W Ltd yeah , strange the owner before me had the shop do the fluid and filter but not the seals under the mechatronics unit. I guess they weren't BMW specialist. So by all adaptions you mean transmission adaptions or transmission and the other ECU adaptions too in power train. Cheers

haha 2 grand!!! just for the engine. probably did not even strengthen the internals and just bolted on the turbo. "this is the only orginal b.m.w turbo motor ive ever seen in my life" - the car is most likely older than him