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Olaf

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Olaf last won the day on May 18

Olaf had the most liked content!

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About Olaf

  • Rank
    7th Gear

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Olaf
  • Location
    Vellington
  • Car
    e60 545i
  • Car 2
    e46 325i Touring
  • Car 3
    e30 316i, Volvo 855-T5

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    I had an e30 325i touring back in the day, as well.

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  1. Elijah buy that and have it painted.
  2. fingers x'd. I found I'd missed some spots on the brake shields with the wet top coat (there's a dusting only). Hey ho, can do that another time. Was planning on cooling hose replacements, but unable to make it swing this week. Hopefully they're sound enough for the trip (top and bottom main hoses already replaced with genuine BMW). It's scheduled for tomorrow, we'll see if it's ready to rock by Friday arvo. I have a very kind offer of an alternate vehicle if Grey Thunder isn't ready. Well spotted on the other rubber. That's for the SS Commodore in a German Suit, will go on soon.
  3. My god they’d look good on my car I reckon. Not sure my partner in life and crime would agree, won’t be chancing my arm there 😀
  4. Haerae Mai, hope you’re enjoying being back!
  5. Though to be fair, what you see as “doing it wrong”, doesn’t register for many people who shoot with their phones for consumption on their phones. For them, this is “doing it right”.
  6. Yep. We call this a “landscape fail”.
  7. So what's the plan, John? GM V8 re-power? boosting? 😊 Great score.
  8. Another observation: I think next time I'm using the Rust Converter, if a great finish is needed I'll use the spray-on product rather than the brush-on. Even though it's thin, the brush-marks show through on smooth surfaces.
  9. Thanks mate. They were black and in reasonable nick when I started, though with thirty-odd years on them, there was an amount of rust. And as I stripped them back, there was a good amount of rust penetration beneath the coatings. One side more than the other, oddly. Most importantly, it was surface rust only. And nothing structural in the spring perches or bases. Hopefully my work is good enough to keep them in good shape for another twenty.
  10. Sunday update. This morning I: Touched up a couple of marks in the topcoat on the ARBs Scuffed the primer with Scotch Brite, then top-coated the Rotor Shields Primed the Strut Housings This evening I: Top coated the Strut Housings. I didn't bother rubbing them down, scuffing them up... they're not meant to be pretty, they're meant to be protected. Hopefully the paint has enough time to cure before installation Weds/Thurs/Fri! Conclusion: The hot-water bath for the aerosols to pre-warm the paint, really does make a difference. The paint is easy to mix with the ball in the can, and the paint flows better, easier to get a good finish. Tomorrow night I'll clean the brake caliper pistons, clean the slider pin housings, and then assemble with new seals.
  11. So today I ran some errands. Bought rubber grease from BNT, more abrasives from Bunnings. and some other stuff. As it wasn't raining, I took Blue Thunder. After chilling a little this afternoon, I got stuck into it in the workshop. I was initially doing the tubes with the flap disc, and the cast iron with wire brush on the drill. It was slow going. After about 30 mins, I figured I needed something faster. It was time to try: The Cup Brush on my angle grinder. I just have a baby grinder, Black and Decker. A present from a friend years ago for helping him out with computer probs. When I'm buying my own kit I usually buy Bosch Blue, De Walt etc. I find the 'pro' tools have more power, more torque, do the job faster. I've been pretty impressed with this little grinder. I think going to the cup brush reduced time to complete by 2/3! So I've bare-metaled both front strut housings, and brushed on rust converter. As you can see above, the brush cup is pretty much shagged. And above: the beauty of CRC brush-on Rust Converter. Yeah I've left the cups on as I don't have a 3-jaw puller. Hints. Eg, if you're going to do this: - the cup brush produces little metal arrows that'll go through 3 layers of clothing and nick your skin. Overalls are a good idea, or better still, a leather metalworkers apron if you have one. - Make sure you use full PPE. This is not a rehearsal! I used 3M respirator with 2297 particulate filters; De Walt safety goggles, Peltor H7F Class 5 earmuffs (Ear Defenders, if you're from Blighty); and Welding Gauntlets. In case I slipped with the grinder, to protect my hands and wrists. We might not be doing this for a living, but the damage occurs just as quickly, and a trip to After Hours med centre or A&E to get stitched up or your eyes operated on is much more costly than some saftety gear! - Buy 2 cup brushes, you might go through one and not be finished. They're not expensive. 20 or 22mm spanner to tighten the 'Brumby' (from Bunnings) quick release into your grinder. Oh, and here's some pics of the rotor shields that I primed this morning before errands. Tomorrow I'll be painting.
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