Leaderboard

So the cable finally came and play time began. Have now successfully coded the radio to NZ/Euro standards, which worked straight away for rds, but you have to wait 15 mins for the tuner to be able to access the full frequency range and I thought I'd f'd it up. But it works, so happy beemer owner. Also managed to turn off the stupid Japanese reverse Gong, but that was in a different place to what the other forums said. They're are so many ECU's to read, it's going to take a while to find the other things I want to change Smithy if you still need the cable you can borrow it (plus laptop if needed) when you want. Pm me.

Here's mine.

Hey, Amber here, Just recently bought myself an 01 325i tourer in the taranaki as I've always admired them. Its not my first BMW as i had an older 318i a few years back but it is however the most modern vehicle I've owned as my other vehicles are vintage and classic. I'm not used to all the electronics and sensors yet, not to mention all the 'beeps' haha. Just thought I'd say hello. I'll put a photo up if I can figure out how. Cheers

welcome, Amber. what's not to love about e46 wagons, eh? I've had mine for more than 5 years now, still love every time I drive it.

Yay for another e46 wagon

Still a lot of car for $10k though.

Now $9995 no reserve... that's pretty good in my book

Still a bit of surface work to do on that corner panel. Looks like there are a few dents and sh*t bog work. Man watch out for crap paint jobs when you buy vehicles

I like how they're now calling sequential gearboxes "automatics". As they are.

This turned up today from Pelican http://forums.pelicanparts.com/101-projects-discussion-forum-bmw-3-series/970845-bmw-m8-gte-racecar-revealed.html?utm_source=Pelican+Pit+Stop+Newsletter&utm_campaign=b155b12162-BMW_8380_9-20-2017&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_e247719183-b155b12162-68402337 For you speed nuts

That’s all true, however for the sake of a few dollars I’d almost prefer to have it fixed myself. I’ve had a couple of dealers do small fixes on cars and it’s almost always the cheapest and nastiest job possible. That might be different if it’s the official main BMW dealer selling you the car but I suspect most of us are buying from others.

Howdy Amber! Nice E46 Hoping the 'Naki gives us some decent weather ....

Hell yes! Fine looking 265KW monster with Dynamic Drive, upgraded Pro audio and HUD!!! Sheesh.

Also check the intake hose between the throttle body and the AFM, and the hoses either side of the ICV. Check all vacuum lines you can as well, a small air leak can cause the above symptoms as well as the parts Gabe79 mentioned.

The only thing that is bs is what has been said here. Speaking first hand, I have a 335i and a Autosure Warranty. It paid for itself in the first 3 months after my waterpump gave up. I would say in 2.5 years of ownership the maintenance bill (preventative & non preventative) is sitting at 5k with the warranty picking up approx 50% of the tab. Get the vehicle checked by a reputable BMW workshop and ensure you get a warranty.

I'd try drying out the boot as much as possible, then drown it with a water blaster one section at a time, see if you can find a leak anywhere. Jack the corner up and remove the wheel so you can blast into the wheel arch, as well as underneath the car. Go around the rear window, boot seal, tail lights etc. Check every few minutes for any sign of ingress, it has to be coming from somewhere. Or, even better, get yourself into the boot with a torch and have someone else using the blaster (make sure you pick someone you trust not to leave you in the boot......)

Welcome - go the Tourings!

That leak doesn't stand a chance under this scrutiny

Welcome aboard Amber!

I find the E60 super practical. The boot is huge so I don't think the E61 is that much more practical.

I like interesting interiors but that gold isn't my bag. I'd need to wear chains and chunky sunglasses. Like the white exterior but black wheels are a 'no'. Pics for posterity As an aside there's a beaut 335i e92 ///MSport in Welly https://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=1417957904 - for just over 3X the price tho...

Welcome to the forum and the E46 family! We'll actually be passing through Taranaki this weekend.

Let there be rust! I see a prang fix with a botch up job of sealing the light. Lucky I did this because another year or so and that surface would have been toast Surface fine underneath once I wire brushed my way through

Fixed up my vapour barrier seal drivers side rear door. Cleary someone went in there to fix something in the door, maybe window actuator, dunno... they left a neatly dried up section of butyl though, which leaked something fierce into the sills, though luckily not into the car just yet. That job was a pain videos make it seem simple and easy and the putting in is easy, but cleaning old butyl cord sucks. Took an hour just to clean butyl off one door. Cleaned up front passenger seatbelt which was moldy as anything.

Instructions from Grant (Hotwire). Sells the relay, wiring, camera, everything you need. $230 https://www.trademe.co.nz/1409521166 >Remove R/H number plate lamp assy. >Remove the boot lining >The aperture will require some slight enlarging to house the camera – it will be pretty self evident. A bead of silicone behind will secure it in place. >Connect the camera number plate wires to the car wiring. (I prefer to solder connections if possible) Make sure the resistor sits out on it’s own – it gets quite hot. >Run the cabling (two leads) down to the right hand hinge area. It needs threading through the conduit into the boot. This is a bit of a process but it will go through. I usually feed a guide wire carefully through, taping the cables to it & drawing them through. Make sure there is no tension on the video lead terminals as they are pulled through – secure the cable to the draw wire behind the terminals. >Leave the connector plugs in an accessible position within the boot lid incase of having to revisit in the future – unlikely but possible. >Once inside, run the leads to the back of the car then across to the L/H side. Trims will need to be removed. >The video module (VM) is the first silver box you see behind the trim, Has two plugs – white & blue. Remove this, from memory the CD changer too, behind a felt liner on the very inside of the guard is the radio tuner – another silver box > Connect the camera power supply (red) into the purple/white in the radio harness. Connect the earth (black) into the brown (earth) wire in the harness, along with the brown earth wire from the relay. >Connect the red relay wire to the L/H reverse lamp. It is white/yellow in the E39, I would say it will be the same in the 38. >Remove white & blue plugs from the VM – depress tab & slide over the release lever. Once removed the inner block needs to be removed from the case. There is a tab to release on the leading edge & the block slides out. Do one at a time so as not to confuse. In the blue plug find vacant slot for pin 17 – insert the white relay wire – make sure they push fully in. reassemble the plug. Repeat on the white plug & insert the yellow video wire into pin 13 slot, the braid into pin 14 That’s all connections done, key on, into reverse & camera will come up on screen. Reassemble as required.

Just curious... did you get quoted for fixing the one you have? That doesn't look like $2k worth of damage...

13 Hours of cutting/polishing/removing compound from face and she is is shineyAF. Still has 224k of stone chips and scratches, but they are very shiney stone chips!

1. Borrowed a cylinder bore gauge. 2. Went to zebra wreckers in Manukau for a m62b44 block. 3. Pulled engine out of a 540i at zebra. 4. Removed heads. 5. Checked bore with pistons still in and all good. 6. Pissed with rain so moved engine undercover. 7. Dismantled everything off the block as its the only bit I need. 8. Found cracks where the starter motor mounts. 9. Went home empty handed after wrenching for hours.