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A big part of the next step arrived. My OMP HTE-R 400 seat arriving down. Luckily my arse fits. Went for this seat, as it has the head restraint, but it is also narrow across the top of the seat, making it possible to pass helmets between the two seats at stage ends etc. Now putting $$ away to get the cage steel down, and start tearing into that.

NZ New six-pack compact; coming up to 193km. Here's a link to the specs: https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/ae21063 factory sports suspensions and seats (tho not M sport). I've not had it long, but circumstances have changed (our other car is now a Swift), so I need something more practical. It drives well and is reasonable nick for the km's - sporadic service history but it looks like someone's looked after it. With a little love (and perhaps a third pedal), it could be a wee cracker.

Work colleague selling his 330i, I know he looks after his stuff and has the money to do it right. Would be a great buy for 5K https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1993604787.htm

Hey there everyone! My names Logan, I'm from Christchurch. This is my E36 which has been my project ever since I bought it back in November 2017. After reading the forums from time to time thought I'd join the group! Anyway here a few photos of the 22 year old, not everyone's cup of tea but hey it makes me happy! VID_20190215_193318.mp4

My 2006 320i E90 Transmission has died and thinking a 2nd hand one is an option at this point. Was hoping to get one from later model car same transmission. Anyone else replaced Transmission.

looks awesome

Welcome. Did you buy it like that or have you done the mods over the last ~18 months?

Keep the packaging and chuck the badges in the bin. Last about 5 mins in NZ conditions. As with most things in life, you get what you pay for.

lots of trade ins go through the dva , normally have issues , pick up a few over the years like this

wasn't that a Pink Floyd album? ?

You Maintained it perfectly. You should take the shot from right slant to get the clear one

A little like using a voltswagon bettle and converting it to a beach buggy using the conversion kits one could buy. If so would depend on the body used what it had registered against it. Then the drive train and other items. Plus the percentage margins allowed for hp etc. Would have a chat to a cert guy could save a hole lot of grief and dollars.

well congrats!

Send me a PM if you want to have a drive of my ETA, the suspension is pretty sad (currently deciding how deep down that rabbit hole I go), but it still accelerates fine. Always happy to talk to another E28 enthusiast also.

"Starts runs and drives. Minor front bumper damage. Slight noise from engine (tapping). Boot catch faulty. THIS VEHICLE IS BEING SOLD REGISTERED" Details suggest it's not stolen/recovered, but that it has 'Suspect mechanical'? As it is being sold registered, my bet would be on a finance repo.

pretty much bolt it up, plumb up some intercooler piping and you'll be boosting your little e30 blowing your M20 to bits!! Nice TT set-up, but without all the other parts built to go with it, like the engine, inlet, ECU, etc... then it would be a short lived period of boost I would think.

nice! some close up photos if you can

Another very old member posting.. It's just incredibly sad to hear about this. I never met Atta but reading about his general rad-ness and impact on the world just amplifies what a loss this is. If you are able, please donate to the givealittle page.

Well this is a familiar job, the old brake light switch failure. A few drives ago I noticed the familiar "BRAKE LIGHT CIRCUIT" warning on the Check Control. Initially it was just a random warning that would pop up occasionally, but when checked, the rear lights still worked. Unfortunately this escalated quickly, to the point where when I drove the car to and from work the other weekend, the warning would come up straight away, and sure enough, no brake lights were lit when the pedal was pressed. Eek. Back to the rear fog light when braking trick. I touched on this error on my first E36, where I had the same issue. I replaced the switch a few times on that car due to faulty new parts, but eventually I got a good switch and the warning went away. Replacement is fairly easy, once you know how the retention system works. If you try to fight the retaining clips, you will just make it much harder to get out. This is the switch, in it "ready" state as it would be when installed in the car. The red collar is pressed into the body, and the plunger is short To release the switch retaining clips, you need to extend that red collar by pulling it away from the body. There is one catch though, the plunger will not allow you to pull the collar out far enough, if the switch has been fitted, as the plunger doesn't extend out far enough. The plunger is on a ratcheting system, and needs to be forcefully pulled away from the body. With the plunger extended, the red collar easily slips forward, and will allow the retaining clips to be pushed inwards, allowing the switch to be removed To access the switch, you need to remove the lower knee trim. Its held on with three screws (one under headlight switch in the square recess, one under the dial for cluster brightness, and the other above the clutch pedal) Once that is removed, the switch is mounted above the brake pedal To release the red collar, you need to push the pedal down, extend the plunger, and then slip the red collar out. Only then can you violently wiggle the switch around until it comes out of its bracket. This isn't an easy task to do. The trick is to either have the car engine running, or press the pedal down immediately after shutting the engine off, so that there is vacuum in the booster and the pedal can travel down far enough to allow the plunger to come out. A lot of people get stuck there, you cannot extend the plunger far enough if the pedal cannot be pushed down. I used a screwdriver to lever the plunger out, and then my hand slide the collar forward, whilst holding the pedal down with my other hand. DO NOT release the brake pedal until you have the switch removed, or it will just push the plunger and collar back in thanks to the ratchet. Once the switch is free, you can release the brake pedal and if you haven't already, disconnect the wiring connector. New and old side by side. There was a bit of wear on the end of the plunger, so despite not having a date stamp, I suspect its original. To fit the new switch, ensure the plunger and collar is fully extended, push the brake pedal down (doesn't need to be all the way like removal) and then push the switch into the bracket until it clicks in. Slip the red collar down towards the body so the switch can't come out. Now release the pedal, and you should hear it ratchet the plunger in. Plug the switch in, and test. You shouldn't have any warnings on Check Control now, and the brake lights should work when the key is ON, and pedal is pressed. Reinstall the trim, and away you go. Done.

That interior color is awesome.

Right, some more love for the M3. This weekend, amongst a million other things to do, I installed the Z3 rack to replace the purple tag that we swapped into Mark's car last weekend. I'm using an eye-alignment machine and it's far from perfect so I have quite a lot of bump steer at the moment but that'll be dialled out when the pro's give me zero toe hopefully sometime this week. Initial impressions are good, it's pretty heavy and tight even compared to the e46 rack it's replaced. If I'd come straight from stock I might have wondered where my power steering went. But I love that real tight and connected feeling. Z3 rack goes straight in with a few notes: There's no provision for the OEM rack limiters on the Z3 rack so if you want limiters you'll need to go aftermarket altough they don't seem necessary. If you're using an e3/46 cooler then you'll need to make a bracket to secure it to the Z3 rack, I used a small (50x12x1.5mm) piece of stainless steel with 6mm holes 30mm apart and a suitable nut and bolt with a spring washer. Another update after alignment. Now for that 3.6x diff...

That could cause it to run rough, see if you can find one

And it looks good great without a rear spoiler... I wouldn't be in a hurry to buy one tbh.