Leaderboard

this is why - having done allmost all of the work mentioned above on mine, I'm going M42. Still have to cert it. But the car will be a 318iS replica, and the only stuff I end up 're-doing' is the cooling system hoses. The brakes, suspension, all of the bushes are already done. If I went to M5x (the sensible move) I'd be up for springs, change to medium case diff etc etc. @Southerner I stopped adding mine up ages ago. The accounting terms is "f#*king heaps*. Though the smiles per mile make it all worthwhile.

Well, after ordering them at the start of October last year I have FINALLY received the last pieces of trim to finish my 1M interior conversion, which are the gauge pod and the dash trim. I'm stoked with how it has turned out, really gives the car a bit more of a special feel than the standard aluminium trim, I think. Pics below.. Unfortunately though my headliner has now started to sag, so going to need to sort that out soon. Anyone got a recommendation on where to get that done and expected cost?

Went and got two new tyres for a wof, discovered all four wheels buckled....$#&@ ... bolted them back on and went straight through a VTNZ wof. Now jacked up and all wheels off to be made round again. Too much dukes of hazard I think.

PM'd...

No, that's entirely new territory. Many are watching the project threads for those going N52 now, to focus on the well-engineered N52 conversion. If you want N52 e30 conversion TODAY be prepared to write a blank cheque to a fabrication shop to do your conversion and get it certed for NZ. It could be quite some time. By all means go N52 today if you want to be a pioneer and understand what that means in terms of of $$$ or your own time with the requisite skills and access to machinery.

@Olaf is on the money, if you do plan on swapping in a b25 then the chassis doesnt really matter as youll be upgrading most things. Also as mentioned they aren't cheap, nor is it a cheap way to do it. Sometimes if the end goal is desired to be a factory car its cheaper and easier in the long run to do that from the start. I done a quick talley up a few months ago on what i could remember spending on my project and nearly fell off my chair, its not a cheap process but done correctly is worth it in the long run, I started off with the 318 and converted to m52, basically i just went looking for a chassis as i had the motor before the car so ended up with a 318 as generally speaking this are cheaper than the 6cyl

@Olaf Indeed - this is why I'm saving my pocket money to make the transition in the next 9 months or so (when we are looking to buy another house with a garage). I'm thinking (hoping) about $35K should do it 🤣

Old guy here... how about.umm, driving the thing for a while before making more mods? Just a thought.

Yo, I need a replacement windscreen. I already have an aftermarket one, so I am not going to bother fighting to get an OEM one. A mobile install is very appealing. (Smith & Smith do this apparently). But as we all know getting someone to do a good job (with anything) is hard. Any recommendations either mobile, close to CBD or West Auckland? (just a stock image)

Looks awesome Fella!

When I did the towbar on the M5 I went to the parts guys at Continental ( Jerry Clayton BMW then) and asked them, they printed the instructions out for me!

Bump free shipping for BS members

$650 Christchurch

any recommendations on workshops if no one has please? Thanks

there's a project thread if you look for it. I'm not sure being the voice of reason is entirely useful, it has a short shelf life.

Olaf continues to be the experienced voice of reason be great to see some photos of your 318iS tribute/replica on its journey

I went M42 for four main reasons. Firstly I'd already spent on updates dedicated to 4cyl, it would be a waste of time and money to backtrack and spend the same money twice. Secondly if I want a performance car, I already have that in other vehicles. Thirdly I really enjoy the balance of a four cylinder e30; they're frankly better balanced than a six. YMMV. Fourthly if I put an M5x into my car, it wouldn't be a 318iS replica. Ultimately I've not owned a four cylinder car since 2008, and last serious four cylinder car I owned was 1996; I'm keeping this one four-pot for the driving experience. Why is the M5x the sensible move? It's a more modern engine, superior to the M20 (doesn't have the maintenance weakspots of the M20), has more power, less weight, multi-valve top-end, and VANOS for the bottom end (later models). It's a far superior motor. If you're going to the expense and effort of re-powering a thirty year old e30, and the expense and hassle of certing it, you might as well do an M5x - plenty of power and a better drive. Unless you're building (say) a 1990 spec 325i (replica), and you specifically want the character of the M20. I acknowledge that for most people an M5x makes more sense than an M42 or M44 - the M42 is pretty pricey for some of the engine parts. And then there's the M30 😀. I expect somebody will be along shortly extoling the virtues of M60/M62 conversions; I'm not worthy! 😁 I'd love to experience one. I'm picking nobody says they're easy, or easier than an M5x or M4x conversion? Hope that helps. Here's a thought. Have you bought the specialist books about the e30? Take a look on Amazon, buy up, read up.

M5X =

No idea who that would be.

Remove and test the throttle position sensor, cleaning mine fixed my erratic idle. As for the flat spots, check for any ECU codes, especially hidden (secondary) codes, you'll need to use INPA or DIS for that, not a consumer code reader.

A/C is uncommon on 316i (could you even option it on the 103hp poverty-spec model?), some 318i have it. You'd want to go to disc rear end (most 316 and 318 are drum rear and solid fronts) and 6cyl vented front brakes (rotors, calipers), with new hoses, caliper rebuilds, pads, rotors. Anything less will be under-braked for your 170hp powertrain. You'll need 6 cyl springs for the extra weight, so might as well do your shocks while you're at it and don't cheap-out (so factor H&R+Koni, or Eibach+Bilstein), and you'll want the 6 cyl ARB. In fact it's thirty years old so do a full suspension bushing refresh front and rear incl rear subframe & trailing arm bushes, lollipops and LCA bushes (or just replace the LCAs as they're not expensive) at the front, along with strut mounts, bump stops, booties. You'll want to replace the diff mount on the medium case diff your 6 cyl conversion came with, unless it's looking fresh. Auto to manual, do all your shifter bushings and a Z3 1.9 short shift, easier to do it now. You'll need a 6 cyl plug for your cluster if converting from 4 cyl, so the tacho reads right. As you're certing, might as well do a purple tag rack conversion. If it came on steel wheels, you'll need bottle caps as a minimum for the fatter calipers - as the pads wear the'll end up contacting the steel rims. Avoid cheap tyres when you go to get it on the road after spending all that money, the wreckers are littered with e30's where a damp road has been encountered and the tyres &/or driver experience isn't up to it. Doing cooling system refresh as part of your M20 install? You'll need the bigger radiator (if it didn't come with your M20 conversion) as the 4 cyl is a lot smaller. Maybe change all those old hoses and waterpump whie it's out as precautionary maintenance? Or defer till later and keep a watchful eye on it. OE/OEM parts are reasonably inexpensive but the prices mount. If you're doing it yourself you're saving labour at least. If you've bought a $4-5k M20B25 full drivetrain (rad to diff), and pay $12-15k for a clean 4cyl coupe, then add the costs above, you're around $20-25k certed and on the road with a clean tidy sorted car with no maintenance headaches. And people think e30's are cheap!

For a race/track car I think KB is heading you in the right direction, 3.9x+ is it, 3.6x is totally comfortable for the street, unnecessarily comfortable for the track! I've not spec'd cams but the guys in the UK swear by the effort required to go under bucket shims, if you're going for hot cams you might as well do it once and do it properly. I think about 276 is the most you can go without and I imagine you'll want more than that if you're going proper hot... by then you'll also need to consider VANOS.

btw, ill freely admit the convertible version is not the drivers E30. its a lot heavier, and flexes a lot more too. as Jon says, it is a cruiser

This might help https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-520d-lim/wiring-functional-info/body/general-vehicle-electrical-system/trailer-towing/trailer-trailer-coupling-release/1VnXWkKdVx

*cough* supercharger *cough*