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I've always been against it, however things have changed in the industry. I feel it's time to have regulations and licencing in the industry to carry out motor vehicle repairs as they do in Australia or better. Technicians and Workshops need to have licences to carry out repairs and documentation showing that these repairs have been carried out to a standard and to be held responsible for these repairs. There are too many idiots & "Cowboys" out there in our industry. And there is one company out there that supports some of these Cowboys which misleads the public into thinking the repairs are being done by reputable repairers to a high standard.

Hey Team Just another small update. Did some more cleaning, got the main end caps and bolts cleaned, timing chain, gave the bearings a good wipe and took all the piston rings off. Once i get the block back from engineers should be good to start putting things back together minus the heads though.

Today 158534kms, oil change and filter. My first on the 545i. Used Penrite HPR 5W40. and Hengst oil filter, which is OEM filter (Hengst genuine filter housing), and the same filter as was used last time. It now sounds better when starting, and runs smoother. Result. May replace the oil filter housing, as it's drain bolt seems seized. Didn't want to faff around trying to free it up in case the car ended up incapacitated. Noteworthy: the Hengst filter comes with a new filter housing o-ring, copper drain plug crush washer, and another o-ring seal for the filter drain plug included in the box. Bonus!

The whole "the apprentice did it" BS it was really gets me. It's been a while since I been employed on the workshop side and not in NZ, but it always used to be that you had to be FULLY trained and COMPETENT to work on critical safety systems on a car - brakes, ABS, airbags, etc. For EXACTLY this reason. If "the apprentice did it" then the onus falls on the qualified mechanic to double check and authorise the work he has done, at the very least. I know these rules apply for HT vehicles in NZ, not sure about passenger vehicles, but it should do in my book. Too many cowboys out there that don't give a sh!t, need to be forced out of the industry.

Turn it on its side, tap up. The screw lid should have a good rubber seal and won't leak. I have purchased my oil in 20ltr packs since I got into racing. If you have the garage space you should def buy it this way. Just don't let your mates see it.

After my nightmare experience with a cowboy mechanic, who wasnt even cheap, and repeatably screwed up my car in multiple ways (dodgy brakes, installed dodgey, BS talk, and flat out lying to my face) and then forgot to do some pretty crucial bolts up, resulting in a change of underwear at 100kmh.... I wont mention names here, as he still has the ability to make a mends, failing that I shall offer a public reaming! A massive shout out to Botany Motor Worx and Nick at BM Workshop parts department for hooking me up with some new brakes for the E87. Thanks heaps, appreciate it. Its so nice to be able to slow down without shaking my fillings out. Keep up the good work, I will not stray in the future! I dont know about these style 269s, but at least its better than cracked ACS Type IV!

Finally got the Alfa WoF'd. Did all the brakes, window wipers and a few other smaller problems and went through no problems at all. BM in the background is making progress to just lowered the rear end today so its looking heaps better, getting some mudflaps this week to smack on and the exterior is pretty near complete with maybe a rear spoiler coming in with some luck haha Cheers...

Well sorted E32. Can't remember the last time I saw a E32 as a 740, let alone this tidy. Mainly 735s https://www.trademe.co.nz/1361922970

Great condition and an opportunity to pick up a classic after it has been well sorted. This might help with inspiration .... https://petrolicious.com/articles/new-old-school-bmws-e23-745i-and-e32-750il

Another trackday done and dusted

Just to clarify Allan. Rather than lifters - it will be a flooded engine - fuel. As you relate to - I go out to this issue on AA call outs frequently, Had a couple last week. When questioning the owner - I can always attribute it back to the last time the engine was running - usually caused by either starting -backing out to wash then starting again & into garage or starting to move the car to access another. Car will then not start the next day. In both these cases the engine has probably only run for a minute max. It is in cold start mode with fuel enrichment (as in years ago with a choke) injector on time is increased to allow more fuel for cold running, the engine though is still stone cold after this short run time. The excess fuel sits in the engine. If it then doesn't catch first crank the next start - the problem just compounds - injectors are still squirting fuel as you crank. Yes crank on full throttle - allows max air flow through the engine to help dissipate the fuel. There is quite a knack to this though & a "feel" for the method to get it to start - every engine seems to react differently - not all will start on wide open throttle. Some can be tricky to catch, sometimes I have even had to revert to removing spark plugs to dry them. Worst would be the Mazda RX8 - I think i have started every one in town. They literally dump fuel in when cold & would be the easiest car to flood. People look at me in surprise when i suggest the issue but once explained they understand. Have to say - I have never been back to the same person twice. I always suggest - it the engine is started - let it warm up for 4 -5 minutes before turning off.

Orrr Graham you don't want me to play you a tune on my violin do you? . It's July what do you expect or maybe just maybe you could have a garage sale to make room so you could work on the car in the garage. Or build another shed

Can we please have some decent fY%$% weather for a couple of days? This morning was nice down this way, but instead of getting on with some car-related work which I'll have to do outside due to the garage being full, I chose to head north, planning to meet with some other BMW folk at Kyu's. Not only did a broken toe (which I've been nursing this week) mean I stopped halfway, had a coffee, then drive home very carefully, but when I got back the morning, and the good weather, had gone. I want to get the turbo on the 320d swapped. Don't want to be doing it in the rain.

Lie the drum down with the tap at the top when not using it, trick for new players- make sure the lid is on properly first!

Hi Dan, I would highly recommend the team at Abtech, 49 Hutt Rd, Petone. I took my 2005 NZ New 330i to them about 2 to 3 years ago to have a proper sound system put in. Initially they quoted just more than $600, and I accepted their quote. Fast forward to the day of the appointment, my wife, our daugter and I were seated in their Audio Movie Lounge and watched a movie while they were getting the job done. I must add that it was like sitting in any movie theatre, with the additional comfort of soft leather seats and no other people around, it was just the 3 of us. On completion of the job, they showed me how everything worked....and then came the final payment! "We had to make a few adjustments, fixed some wiring issues, etc" one of the chaps said, and I thought to myself...Here we go, they are going to take me to the bank, and empty my account!! What a lovely surprise it was when the amount due, was more than a $100 less than their original quote. In total I had to pay around $450, and I can only speak highly of their workmanship and their customer service. We also had my son's then E36 328 BMW fitted through them with a new car radio, and again we got the same service. You can check them out here: www.abtec.co.nz All the best. Charl

i have a dedicated oil container with a good tap. Its one of the white 20ltr containers you see chemical and often drinking water in. It was a chlorine drum from work. i simply just poor the new oil in to that, no leaks. then i use the empty drum the oil came in for the waste oil. easy peesy poos and weesy

Cant you just use a small pump from the top?

This reads like something you could take to the disputes tribunal. That's nuts.

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck That must have made an interesting sound.

You spelled ditchfinder tyres wrong.

Not my thing. Not at all. Strikes me as a car trying to find a market niche to fit in to. Of course, it may be great to drive. Better looking than the 'old' 5-series GT... Perhaps. But I didn't like that much, either! (Don't get me started in the X6 !) Price in the US: $70k. Price in NZ...? I dread to think, but probably $140k+.

Cheers for info It will be about 2 weeks before I can deal with this In meantime I have decided to drop vehicle back on Monday and get packers removed, then I am only working with one variable (new shocks). After replacement of shocks I no longer have body roll through left hand corners. I now just have a height issue which I hope is just down to the packers - so therfore remove packers. So in my mind what should happen now is that car will return to my previous ride height, albeit with brand new shocks. My untrained mind doesnt know if new shocks have any bearing on ride height. Appreciate the guidence Cheers Paul

Should measure from the centre of the wheel to eliminate different wheel sizes and styles.