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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/03/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    So been learning heaps... being that my car is turbo, adding overlap will limit high rpm power gain more lower rpm power, right now its putting out 520hp at the wheels at 18psi boost and the torque is awesome so going to run like this for a bit then re tune with different cam set up in a years time seen is that is is Christmas and there's presents to buy, right now as it is feels so much faster than my last engine, in forth gear cruizing at 100kph then floor it it spins the tyres which is fine for now... fastest car ive ever driven... Early in the new year its going to get a tidy up and made road legal
  2. 2 points
    Hah, you make it sound like you can just turn the boost up on a 2JZ and get 1000hp. In reality 1000HP out of a 2JZ, RB26 or N54 is going to be a big, expensive job. The 335i has been a performance deal since 2016, or earlier even. I was looking at low mileage 335i wagons in 2015 for under 30 grand.
  3. 2 points
    The consensus here is to avoid those engines entirely.
  4. 2 points
    Been thinking this for a while as the prices have been coming down, all of the twin-turbo ?35i models are so easily tuneable and with the addition of a few cheap bolt-ons can give so much more power so easily. I've been wondering why it's taken the boy racer / tuner fraternity have taken so long to pick up on these models, maybe they are too hooked on their Japanese models to notice the potential of the Euro cars?
  5. 2 points
    Wouldn't be tempted to trade for my 335i touring? I kinda miss the damn thing. I know it's unlikely but pm if interested.
  6. 1 point
    Hi all, Incase anyone is looking to get new tyres, it'll be a nice time to get RE003s. http://www.bridgestonetyrecentre.co.nz/promotions/current-offer/ Buy 1 get 1 half price.
  7. 1 point
    Tread depth requirement for "winter tyres" is 4mm, noted in that link. As @gjm stated, the ruling is that, technically, you can mix any combination of tyres to a car, as long as the same brand, size and tread pattern is on the same axle. All the info is in the link he provided
  8. 1 point
    towbar can be very hndy at times,bike rack,trailer of rubbish to the tip...dont need a hilux for that
  9. 1 point
    Probably some performance benefit in running 98 (as long as it's not the horrible Gull biofuel rubbish) - car looks nice, though is the tow bar removable?
  10. 1 point
    Yes you could turn right there, youve done most of it by that point. As for left or straight ahead at Waiouru, thats up to you. SH1 is a town every 20km and very boring, and the constant left right every km or so of SH1B to avoid Hamilton is annoying, and is the slowest route, despite being SH1 the whole way. Some people go SH1, turn right at Tirau and take SH27 on to SH2 and come out at Bombays. Both of these are uneventful routes. As you know i do this run all the time, my preferred route is Ohakune/Taumaranui/Otorohanga/Pirongia/Ngaruawahia comes out at Taupiri. This is through the King Country area and very nice, you can stop at Raurimu Spiral not that you can see much but it is a good place to stop and let your dog have a peepoo and you can read a bit about it, and the Waitomo Caves if you like. there is also one of the highest rail bridges in NZ that the train goes over you about 12m or more above the road, which itself is more than 20m above the valley floor, there is a nice rest stop there and a nice spot for pictures etc . downside to this route is there is no cellphone or radio reception between Taumaranui and Te Kuiti so load up your spotify. hope this helps
  11. 1 point
    I guess it's part of the "culture" of the boy racer community? I won't be surprised to see a move towards the 335 and such in the near future. Plenty of mk5+ golf around that have been treated to a tune to make them slightly less disappointing to drive and a few "hot" ST225 Focus popping up. All of which offer the performance of a clapped out GSR or early WRX from the 90s...
  12. 1 point
    Yep they are not a bad car for their day but have many potential flaws. EAS is great when its working but doesn't seem to last very long before something fails. The HVAC system is pretty troublesome also. Don't have high regards for the rover engines and even though the M51 isnt a bad engine for its time its just a bit under powered in P38 coupled with the turbo lag Only reason i my father never sold his is they generally seemed to be worthless these days (had from new $80,000 in 1998). I can see a good diesel example possibly fetching a reasonable price but im sure the market for them is relativity small.
  13. 1 point
    So the emblem was removed after the airbag way recently replaced? Either way, it's a $5 v's $100's proposition and on that basis alone I'd replace the emblem only, your airbag is practically brand new. I suspect the whole front flap folds up upon inflation (needs to be confirmed) and in that case replacing the aluminium emblem is simple, just get one from ebay.
  14. 1 point
    @Young Thrash Driver is it time to start Bridgestone vs Beaurepaires vs Hyperdrive again?
  15. 1 point
    Nice. If you swap out your diff I'm interested in your existing cw and pinion.
  16. 1 point
    I've a slightly different perspective: I just wouldn't re-use bump stops under any circumstances. They're not expensive, and if the closed-cell foam hasn't died in the previous 15-20 years, it certainly won't be performing as new... and a failure in the next year or two requires removal to replace. Same goes where bellows-type dust boots are in use, the plastic goes hard and brittle, and if it hasn't failed yet it soon will. Why risk $40 of parts on a thousand dollar job? YMMV.
  17. 1 point
    Very interesting interview, I love his comment on the E46M3CSL and he says Dual Clutch is better but we will still make manuals anyway. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-shows/los-angeles-auto-show/a25349977/new-bmw-m3-m4-manual-transmissions-awd/
  18. 1 point
    More than welcome to take my E39 for a spin. I haven’t done my shocks yet but my tyres are new and it might give you an idea of what a 214,000 km on original shocks feels like..... @Mikan recently did the shocks in his M- Sport touring (OEM Sachs) ....probably more relevant as to what you are trying to figure out than mine but the offers there.
  19. 1 point
    I do own both of them. I usually only drive them on sunny days. I have owned the M535i for 3.5 years. Bought it without seeing it in person. Never driven one or been in one before. Instantly fell in love with the M30 engine. Sounds fabulous, like a proper classic straight 6 should with plenty of low end torque. I have had lots of friends who have been as passengers in it and commented on the smoothness. I have upgraded a few things like suspension, wheels, brake lines. I do worry at times that it might not brake as good as the modern cars and I might be in trouble one day hence E34 brakes are on the cards. I do drive it hard from time to time and these cars love it. I keep all the original parts. I bought the E30 Mtech1 four months ago. The initial drive was disappointing thanks to the M20. But the whole car feels very light and compact in comparison. The seating is lower, you feel more tucked in. It's getting a few things done atm - injectors cleaned, valve timing, new heater hoses, suspension, wheels, brakes... Pretty much the same as the M535i. The stock E30 brakes are worse than the E28 stock ones. Rust is the biggest problem. No classic BMW is rust free. They either have rust or been repaired. Oil leaks is the second. But these cars are fairly easy to work on. I don't have much mechanical experience, so I rely on the forums and YouTube for help. But I do most of the maintenance myself. Price wise, $15k should be enough to get you a decent one with some minor issues. The M535i are selling for $30-40k in Australia these days.
  20. 0 points
    This guy has 860WHP, with 36psi boost on an unopened N54, so they arent that sh*t. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1104103&page=11 Do you always have to be such a sourpuss?
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