M3AN

^ this. Requires a cert now right?

Can't tell you about the Z3 rack although I have one now sitting in the garage. What I can tell you is that the purple rack is an astonishing upgrade, I've had mine in for about 8 months now and will never look back, it makes a huge difference to how the front of the car feels and precision micro-drifts. But I do understand the original 3.0 and 3.2 racks are different? Therefore you may have a different experience. When the purple one first went in it felt very heavy and tight, I couldn't have imagined putting an even tighter one in. However now that I'm used to it it just seems normal and I'm willing to experiment with the Z3 rack when I get around to it. It's actually not as much of a leap (in ratio) from E46 > Z3 as it was to go from E36 > E46 so perhaps the change in feel won't be so dramatic either. I did have to modify the inner tie rods to allow the E46 rack to vent but many don't. I don't think this is required for the Z3 rack. I'm positive you'll be happy with the E46 one and pretty sure you'll be at least as happy with the Z3 one. I do hear that the Z3 one is quite a bit more maintenance on the open roads so that's what I'm most cautious of.

My B6's are fine some 40k kms in. Was using stock springs and bars for a while then swapped to Eibach and that made quite a difference really, no doubt because they're designed for one and other. It's a bit lower but not much. Using 15mm spring pads in the rear so my 255/18's clear.

Very interested to see how this under tray fits in the final wash up.

Keen. PM'd.

Thanks. Any curbing etc? And I assume they're straight!

Regarding the colour change are the painted, dipped or something else?

I know you're being cheeky but you do know the US never got a real e36 M3 right?If it's a LHD from Europe then that's a different story.

LHD, the American one? Why would you want that when you could have a real one?

How did it meet reserve, close and not sell? Edit: duh, read the auction Dave.

Yes, I just took the measurements and specs to Enzed and they made them for me, fitting was a breeze. I got them about an inch longer than I needed just to be sure.

Power would make this test easier. The faster you can get to 100 the more time you have to stop.

it's a 2k cup car, just bolt it to the cage mate...

Yeah but I could never buy a car without driving it first, however attractive it may seem.

That's crazy. Drum brakes could pass that test.

Pity it's not in Auckland, I need a daily. GLWS.

What about a full roof skin from a slick-top wreck?

^ sharp price. I reckon you'll be fine...

A used one shouldn't cost you more than $350 depending on the type. If your existing tie-rods and boots are fine you can reuse those. Replace fluid and filter canister (maybe $100), alignment ($100) and add labour. A competent shop shouldn't spend more than 4 hours on it including alignment time.

INPA is best to start with, it's much easier to set up and use and may do everything you need. It can read and clear codes and take a data stream from the modules telling you what various components are doing. It can also perform some tests. You need to get INPA up and running before you tackle DIS anyway so it's not only best, but also a requirement to start there.

Downloaded it. I can provide the INPA files if required because that's simple, I'm more hesitant to offer DIS because of exactly what Josh says above.

Since we're all doing it...

$8.50? 0_0 That must be some damn special pie. I'm old enough to remember when a Big Ben's mince and cheese was 80 cents at the tuck shop... Popsicle and K-Bar for 20 cents all up...

If you can find me a 3.6x large case I'll sell you my 3.23...