Driftit

Plate being blurred out tells me the vehicle is probably stolen and they don't want everyone going after the actual owner of the vehicle. My bet is on gang members.

That is actually a really good guide.

With no mention of previous damage

I'm curious if your brakes are the same that are on the 135i. And what BMW would quote for that car.

Somebody tucked you. The best race pads installed by a no armed mechanic charging $150 per hour wouldn't cost that.

Have said this since 2003 when the frontal impact laws and liability laws changed for damaged vehicles. All that happens is the vehicle is marked as damaged upon import. Whilst you need an engineers report to re-vin the car. You don't have to give that to anyone afterwards. And anyone with it can not hand it to anyone else without permission. Fun times. It's a game of how well you can hide the repair. M cars are a hard one. They could have been written off because they couldn't find an bonnet and bumper. But also and prob more likely is that they are a sports car and were crashed being driven hard.

Had to do this quite often when I was driving the 1km to the train station last year. Tap Tap = Lifter Tick Tick = Injector Knock Knock = Who's there? Mr Big End Bearing.

I would go for the NZ new one too. Recently been driving around in a modern diesel manual and then immediately an auto version of that same vehicle. I was towing a trailer in a hilly area and the auto was just hassle free. The short power band made me feel like I was changing gear far too often in the manual. And it was just a hassle in traffic. Are they accessible to take for test drives? Experience it for yourself. There are others on here that swear by manuals for every task. Auto's are not what they used to be. And the flappy paddles in the BMW's are great. Even in my old 130i.

"Hi even with a blown engine this car is very cheap, any reason for sale?" Ok then...

Seem pretty intent on hurting the enthusiast.

Euro Italian would be my pick for local parts. Gavin is great to deal with. Based on the North Shore.

FCPeuro.com Most of us use them.

Pass it through the vin process and see what pops up. Will be a few hundred. Might even pass. Buyers will try to use this to low ball you. Unless there is something seriously wrong with the vehicle it's not that bad or expensive.

Woh sh*t do you work for Insert Government Agency here too?

I haven't used it since I got back to NZ. I haven't actually had a chance. Kiwi bank doesn't support it. You're right. The only 3 that support it are ANZ, ASB and BNZ. I use Transferwise quite a bit but they are not a traditional bank. I spoke to Kiwibank a while back and they mentioned they were looking at their own service and it would be out soon. That was a year back. And Own service is of no use without stores supporting it.

NZ seems to be falling well behind in the banking game. Hardly any banks support Apple/Google/Samsung Pay. Very few stores support it. And the fees are obviously too high for contactless systems (even though they require far less maintenance). The uptake for contactless payment systems over lockdown was great. But now everyone is switching it off and reverting back to a system that hasn't changed in over 15 years. I miss Google Pay. Especially for online payments. With it's random temporary CC numbers.

Fixed it. Pulled the fuse for the Nav. It's all Jap gear and worthless to me anyway. Everything is back to normal.

I'm going to check on the voltage. I have read a few posts where it was related to Alternators failing. But the info is half assed. I don't think it is overheating as it will run on ACC for as long as I like. There is no discs in the drives. I do have ISTA but on another device. Will retrieve it and give it a go.

FCP Euro says. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-disc-brake-rotor-front-34116763824oe#description No sizes but has the part number which you can look up. Also probably cheaper buying from them.

Yeah I have. When it is in its Boot loop you can't do anything at all. However when it is on ACC I was able to manually reset the device by holding down the two eject buttons and pressing the volume knob. It restarted as expected. But didn't solve the loop issue once the car was started.

Best of luck. They seem to have separate controllers for everything.

Solved: pulled the fuse for my unused Navigation. Fuse #17. So I have the dreaded iDrive Reboot. It's hard to diagnose. Forums are full of "Mine did something vaguely similar to that, ended up fixing itself when I filled the washer fluid" sort of BS posts you have to sift through. Here is what mine is doing. As soon as I unlock the car I can hear a speaker popping sound. Similar to the pop you get when plugging in a lead to an amp. This is audible before I even open the door of the car. Once in the car the popping sound continues every 10 or so seconds. Turning the ignition on to ACC results in the system starting normally. Screen pops up. Radio starts playing. It will remain working like this. Starting the car will result in a speaker popping sound and the iDrive system rebooting. BMW Logo is displayed on screen. It will then briefly display the radio screen (where it was left). In 1 to 2 seconds it will reboot with a speaker popping sound. It will cycle like this endlessly. I drove a 20min trip with it doing this. If you turn the car off and then back to ACC the system will boot as it should. However if you try to select Navigation. It doesn't display anything. Before I go about replacing the iDrive Motherboard like most people do. I would like to diagnose it a little further. I don't think it is the MB as the system will boot normally in ACC mode. It only starts rebooting when I unlock the car for first use (key not even in the ignition) and when I start the car. It makes me think it is related to the Nav. As I have a feeling this boots as soon as the car is unlocked. I know this as I used it's power a while back to trigger a amplifier remote. And the amp would turn on the moment the car was unlocked and wouldn't turn off for a few mins after it was locked. This has since been removed. No Amp present. I'm going to disconnect the Nav system as first step. Clip of what is happening.

That was for domestic only sales though wasn't it. These ones are being sold world wide.

I saw this one the other day. The owner is either useless or trolling though. Has a ton of interest, apparent urgency to sell, but doesn't reply to anyone. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/525i/listing/2770765338?bof=md3IKGMM

I can actually compared Gull 98 vs Waitomo 95. Will take a look later. I can move our fuel discussions somewhere else too.