aja540i

Now on TM, roll on the questions! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=985619405

Also timing chain guides, rear subframe bushes, all 4 shocks, rear air springs, valley pan, etc. All the stuff i've done on mine!! plus mine is black leather throughout and 6 speed manual! Im after more than 3k for it though.

He must have been half expecting it, he had the sunroof open for a hasty exit!!

Have been driving the car for a couple of weeks now with 1 brand new unit and 1 original unit that i rotated the reduction gear 180 degrees in, and all works fine , Polley has replaced the component that failed on the board in the other original unit and it is on its way back to me, i will replace the gears in that unit and next time the manifold "has to" come off, i will test the rebuilt unit and if it is all good i will swap it for the original that is still in there. Fingers crossed!

You must have used it for something otherwise it wouldnt have been missing!

I got mine from Gavin at Euro italian.

Have a feeling it was a 4-6 psi pump, which was fine for an M10b16. If you really want an M10 i have a spare 2 litre i could be convinced to part with.

I converted one of mine to an electric diaphragm pump, if you buy the right pump you shouldnt need a pressure reg, they come in a couple of different pressure ratings. Just be careful mounting the pump, they can be a bit rowdy and really need good rubber isolation mounts. You will also need to run a relay and some wiring but im sure youre up to it! Not sure if it helps but i have a couple of old M10 fuel pumps that are just taking up space in my garage?

I like it, plus the colour is right!the wing mirrors were probably an option on these, my e21s didnt all have them, some only had on the drivers side.

You may want to also check that the release bearing is seated properly on the fork, it has 2 little tabs that stick out each side of the sleeve that the bearing is attached to, these should be in line with the 2 bumps on the front of the fork. If they are not in the right place the release bearing will not be pushing as far into the pressure plate as it should, and the clutch may not disengage. Good luck

Replacement gears arrived from the States so it looks like i may end up with a rebuilt unit to keep as a spare for when the other one fails!!

Sweet.

On it's way to him now.....

Cleared fault code and drove to work today, all good! Just need to get battery re-initialised and we are good to go.

Hmmm, ive owned numerous cars in the "death trap" price range and i haven't died in any of them!

I guess you'll find out on saturday, it will probably be blue and a station wagon!!

I have used Mongoose in the past, not cheap but did a tidy job.

New actuator arrived today, apparently it was the last one in NZ! All fitted up and it runs fine, will check fault codes again and test drive later. Replacement gears have also been shipped from the USA, and should arrive next week.

PM me the address and i can send it down, do you need the whole actuator or just the board?

I can't guarantee it is that component that failed, but the board is poked, and my best guess is at least that one component is fried.If someone is interested in testing it somehow I can send them the board.

Problem is there isnt really anywhere for the heat to go as the board is sealed inside the actuator, plus the entire board is back to back with a 3mm aluminium cover plate so it should be losing plenty of heat through that.I think the board is only failing because the mechanical issues are causing the motor to draw a lot more current than it should, and there is only so much of that it will take! Worst case scenario is 2 new actuators every 120K or so, eventually they might get cheaper!

so, an e36 318is with an s85 V10 in it, i have all the ingredients for that! A bit too mental to drive to work everyday though.

So i have ordered 1 new actuator from JC BMW and i have opened up the second actuator and it all looks ok, the gears are worn, but the board looks fine, so i have rotated the centre gear 180 degrees to even out the wear, and lightly lubricated the moving parts. Also gave all the throttle bodies a quick clean and lubricated all the moving bits, hopefully that will delay the almost inevitable failure of the other unit for a while. 130K seems to be about the lifespan for these units from what i have read but im hopfull i can extend it a bit with some preventative maintenance. Fingers crossed! Have also ordered a set of replacement gears from odometergears.com, roughly $400 for the set with shipping, enough to do 2 actuators.

Pics in the showroom section, something will have to go seriously wrong for me to end up parting out the 540, its enough of a struggle coming to terms with selling it, let alone breaking it up!

Not if you disable the sensor.....