qube

read these two threads and decide for yourself regarding the 120i

2020 bump

biggest difference surely is the auto vs manual. both nice just depends what you want. big price difference obviously too..

Well done! Now just enjoy

AFAIK, the modern engines are generally running hotter than before, around 115-120deg compared to 95deg for example between the N series engines vs the M series engines. This is due to the stricter emission standards if I am not mistaken. The pro of this is better efficiency and fuel economy but at the sacrifice of oil degradation. The lubricating properties of the oil degrade over time and use and the higher temps result in this process happening faster than before which is why I believe the newer cars should have the oil replaced at shorter intervals. I know this goes against the dealer's and manufacturers recommendations of 20,000km service intervals that normally come up on the dash on the modern cars. Maybe for a new vehicle this is fine but normally we are talking about secondhand used cars with unknown history and any car that is over 50,000 or 5 years old I think should have the oils changed more frequently. Only downside I have heard about is dry start up and something about certain additives in the oil that require some time to be thermally activated. But I am not saying change your oil every 2000kms so dont really see any issues. Happy to hear alternative theories or even "correct" answers but this is just my opinion/belief!

I have been using 5w-30 castrol edge for years and although ive never had a problem, I think this oil burns a bit more than the HPR5 which I also have from when I bought a 10L bottle on special. Both equally "good" but the main thing to note is that service interval and keeping an eye on the oil level after every couple thousand kms is more important. the bottom line is that oil is a consumable part of vehicle maintenance and due to the high temps the cars are running these days it is normal to consume oil so you need to top up from time to time. gone are the days where you do an oil service and run it for 20,000kms until the next service. (this is probably fine for any toyota or honda even still but we are a BMW forum :))

the easy answer is if you are handy with tools and a keen DIYer then you can risk not getting the warranty and have that money spent on maintenance instead. As Cam said, often overlooked is the minimum requirements in order to be eligible for the warranty which means a big service bill every year when all they do is just a oil and filter using who knows what. Some mechanical insurance companies also require a transmission service within 3 months of the warranty in order to protect themselves. this is easily a $500-1000 bill. then you take into account each excess for any potential claim and you are well into the $3-4000 mark over the course of 3 years in minimum outlay. In saying that, because the potential issues with the N43 is quite big and expensive, it may still be a good idea to get it for peace of mind, especially if you are planning to rely on a shop to maintain the car, that way you have no responsibility for the cars health and just pay a fixed cost that you are aware in order to maintain it. Slightly different for CAM because the N52B25 is a much more reliable engine and those parts he mentioned are considered (to me anyway) normal wear and tear items, that are not significant enough to claim warrant in most cases. especially if you are able to source secondhand parts or overseas and fit yourself saving a big portion of the cost of the labour. sorry, didnt end up being an easy answer at all haha

Funny that. I thought wheels were supposed to sit under the guards!! ? nah but seriously, the wheels should fit no problem as in it will bolt and and you can drive without worrying it will hit the inner strut or whatever. But if you want “flush” “stance” fitment then it wont work well. you will need around 10-15mm spacer for the rear maybe more. The best thing to do is to put the wheels on and see how many mm’s further out you want it then get the spacers. Then the problem will be whether your tyres will scrape on the guards since you want to go low. you can either have the wheels “tucked” under the guards and go very low (old school style) or you can go “flush/stance” which means the rim of the wheels will be level with the guard lip. But this means your tyres will need to be stretched so it goes on a slant in order to fit under the guard easier. Your problem here is that the wheels are only 8.5” wide so you cant stretch tyres easily unlike a 9 or 9.5” wheel.

this doesnt tell enough info to know if it will fit properly. what we need to know is the offset of the wheels. if the offset is around 30-40 then it will be fine. if the offset is around 20 then it will stick out so will need guards rolled and still might not fit if the offset is around 50 then you might need spacers but then you need a cert

Even better in person +1

i would look on trademe for a deal on some 17" wheels if it was me. sometimes people sell with decent tyres for $5-600

here is a discussion but at the end of the day its your car your choice of fuel. i stick with BP or mobil.

take $600 from each and flip a coin.

its possibly the perfect duo

Based on the petrol flap?

any 95 or 98 would be fine except gull. 91 is no good for any european car these days

http://mywikimotors.com/n43b20/ https://babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=103282 read up on the N43 engine, not the greatest engine from BMW but given the mileage you do per year it should be alright. Also, dont ever think that 20,000km service interval is good enough. stick to a 8,000-10,000km routine and get it scanned for fault codes etc. 1 year warranty is nice but if you are planning to keep it a long time I wouldnt rely on it and maintain it best as possible. or keep it for a year then sell it

one of the reasons for this type of failure is due to long oil change intervals. i wouldnt go past 10k kms at most and make sure to use good quality oil and filter everytime.

so.. they are almost done fixing it without telling you what the diagnosis was and how much its going to cost? um...o..k..

oooo you are going to love this! congrats!

we dont know what the price is.. reserve could be 25k but could be 35k.

toyota altezza spoiler on the e36 ti

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2511543305.htm

Wouldnt cost too much to paint it if it bothered you enough. Probably circa $500.