duvey

What a monster definitely solid bang for buck

If they're going on the e36, have you researched how this will effect your brake bias, keeping the rear brakes stock 328?

Another cyclist here (and a law abiding one). Honestly going through this thread reading some of the attitudes towards cyclists on the road scares the sh*t out of me. I've been hit by cars more than once, and have lost a friend in a bike accidents caused by motorists. As douchey as some cyclists can be, realize that any altercation that might happen on the road, the cyclist is going to be the one that comes out worse off. Just like motorists, there are good cyclists and bad cyclists. For the most part, a bad cyclist is just risking their own neck. Maybe go out and ride a bike to see what it feels like to be on the receiving end of a bitter motorist clipping past you at 100kmph and screaming out the window with 15cm of clearance. Most cyclists are drivers, but most drivers aren't cyclists. 'Flesh hitting a metal car' is still somebody's brother, father, sister or mother.

It'll be sad to see this go! Best of luck with the sale.

ET13 is ultra aggressive for an e36. I don't think they would fit without some pretty serious guard work. E36s were ~ET38 from the factory, so like Graham says, you're looking at a wheel which sits ~25mm further out than a factory wheel, width not withstanding. You'd want to check the centre bore is E36 spec too, otherwise you'd need to get the bores milled or buy hubcentric rings. For the record though, type 2s are awesome! I had ACS Type 1s on my old m3, which I loved.

First attempt at some kind of hyper-miling in the e36 while away on an easter trip. Full tank of BP 98, on Thursday night. Refilled again today with 54.74L, which got me 690kms exactly. Comes to a real world fuel usage of 7.93 L/100km. Very impressed indeed, for a 2.8L sports car made in the 90s that I bought for $5000. According to the OBC. Not too much variation.

Yeah, i hate e30 steering columns so much. Every time I have to screw with it it takes me 3x longer than it should. Just earlier this week I had the whole lower part disconnect sooner than I was expecting while I was unbolting it from underneath and it coned me directly in the forehead/eye. Still nursing a black eye...

From what I understand there are many different types of e30 radiator, but none of them are sufficiently different in size that they aren't capable of cooling any type of e30 engine. The only thing to make sure is that if you have an auto, that you're using a rad out of an auto - they have a build in transmission cooler.

I don't have much to compare it to, but steering feels about right, very similar to the factory-manual-rack equipped e30 i have driven. Fits nicely. Would be heavier on a faster rack though, obviously. Service from Condor Speed Shop has been spectacular.

You were telling me like 3 days ago how much you think I should put cats in my e30 exhaust so it doesn't smell. I sense sarcasm.

Any damage to the sealing surfaces? Motor oil gets pretty creepy when its hot Related to a helicoil repair? Not ideal but i'm sure some tactially placed rtv would plug the gap.

Surely the difference between 7 and 8nm can't be the only reason for a leaking valve cover. Maybe just some rtv? Good to see you're staying on top of maintainence.

Can always appreciate some pretty fabrication. Extreme build! Following with interest.

I'm using one of these jobbies. On an e30 rack, mind, but same theory I would have thought. http://www.condorspeedshop.com/collections/e30-parts/products/aluminum-power-steering-delete-block-plate-e30

Love that colour!

Do we know if these are the same as the 15" weaves' centre caps?

Thanks Jules! Very true. The role of the car has changed somewhat since I started the thread. Definitely no longer a daily. I have the E36 for that.

Progressing nicely, despite a number of fairly major roadblocks. Revshift engine and trans mounts arrived from the states last week (finally) Now that the mounts I had been waiting for were here, it was all go. I installed the new engine and gearbox and connected up the new shifter mechanisms. Wired everything up and added fluids. It was at this point I noticed the big crack in the sump leaking oil all over my floor. I should have filled the engine with fluids before I put it in the car but live and learn. I decided to try to start the new engine anyway to check everything else was okay. Connected the battery and turned the ignition on, and sheets of smoke started pouring out from under the main ecu relay in the engine bay. Hooray. I cut back the insulation from the loom to assess the damage. The insulation on one particular wire was completely burned off, and had melted the insulation on several other wires in the loom. I figured there was probably a short somewhere in the loom, and I had the luxury of having another m20 loom sitting in my garage on my removed m20b20, so I went about swapping over the looms. m20b25 loom evicted from its home. m20b20 loom transplanted onto the b25. Oil still leaking from the sump, I again connected the battery and turned the ignition on. This time no smoke. Phew. Cranked the engine over but it wouldn't start. Confirmed I had fuel to the rail. Confirmed the coil was working properly. Did a spark test which showed me the distributor was at fault. Took it all apart and the dizzy cap appeared to be quite worn. Again, I pulled the dizzy cap and HT lead assembly of the b20 and transplanted it all onto the b25. This time I turned the engine over, and it immediately roared to life. The sound of an unmuffled straight 6 giving me much needed motivation. Time to address the sump. I already had the front struts out for various reasons, so it made sense just to drop the front subframe out. A few bolts later... The sump came off the b25 shortly after. The crankcase looked good, with no sludge etc. The culprit, seen above. I pulled the sump off the b20, checked they were the same, then went about cleaning up the b20 sump. All clean, below. I installed the b20 sump with Permatex red rtv after doing a bit of reading. Now just waiting the 24 hours for it to cure before adding oil and checking for any other issues.

I have 215/45/17s on an 8" rim on my e36, and they are very slightly stretched. I would prefer to run 225s. I would imagine that 215s would sit nearly square on a 7 inch rim. Maybe this helps: http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

I think it always pays to apply a grain of skepticism to factory torque specs. Sometimes chasing that magical number can be a little dangerous. Be it old or previously damaged bolts, or grommets as you suggest that alters the situation. You tend to ignore the little sensations that let you know you're about to strip a thread when you have a torque spec to follow, and are waiting for the 'click'. I've damaged far more threads while tightening when using a torque wrench, than just playing it by ear with a ring and open end. Sometimes I wonder if you're best just with a basic understanding of the materials you're dealing with and the forces that the fastener is going to have to resist, then just playing it by feel. Anyway, good rescue!

Wow wow wow! What an awesome little car!

After a small (78mm) output flange for a Getrag 260. If anyone has a broken gearbox with one I will consider buying the whole thing.

My SO drives a Swift with a proximity key. Yussss. Clearly doing something right.

New shifter assembly put together to replace the weird e21 assembly. All new parts.

Might hit you up about getting a exhaust put together for the E30 once the engine swap in complete.